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Discussion Starter #1
i know the big klr's are pretty sturdy, but are there any well known defects with the 1993 model year i ought to know about??? going to look at one tomorrow at 7pm EST to supplement my tw so i'll have a decent highway bike. i really dig that blue/white/green color scheme!

thanks for your time!
 

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I've owned 5 of them since '85 and my last one was sold with 83K or so on the clock. I still see it around town occasionally. My current KLR has 45K, has never missed a beat and has needed absolutely nothing in terms of replacement parts..

That said, a poorly cared for KLR can be a liability. If you haven't already heard of it, the "doohickey" could be viewed as a design flaw in every KLR made from day 1 til today.. If it has a lot of miles on it or if the P.O. failed to stay on top of the cam chain adjustments the chain and cam sprockets degrade rapidly, wearing the teeth off the cams. For the most part the differences between a '93 and an '07 motor (last year of the "old" style KLR) were minor, consisting primarily of differences in clutch cages, etc.

If the P.O. "did the doo" early in the bike's lifem or was diligent about checking the stock "doo" and was conscientious about valve adjustments and oil changes in my experience they can be a solid 100,000 mile bike. If it has low miles and you're willing to assume said care and feeding you'll potentially acheive the same. Neglected, not so much.

Other than that almost any well-maintained KLR will still be standing long after the cucarachas have taken over.

The valves are bucket and shim which is sort of a PITA, but given decent attention to oil changes they seldom need shims. Mine has needed exactly 2 in 45,000 miles, but don't become jaded and fail to check them. I check mine at least twice a year, regardless of mileage.
 

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+1 on the doohickey change. Other than that, the swing arm bearings have no grease fittings like the TW so they tend to wear.
Just keep up on oil changes & it will last a LONG time:).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the info!! I've read a lot about the doohickey in the past few hours. seems odd that they would make such a bullet proof engine yet make a bum doohickey? I'm going into the deal assuming it will have to be changed out.
 

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Take it from me. If you have to replace the Doo-Hickey it's not that hard. Eagle Mike sells them along with very good instructions.
 

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I agree. Not that hard at all. There are alternatives to the tools sold for removing the flywheel but I have those and would be happy to lend them to you for the cost of shipping.

How many miles are on the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yes miles... well po had to change the speedometer to get it inspected.has no proof of what it said when he took it off. he SAYS there were 10k on it then, and the new speedo shows 2222 miles, which he put on over 2 years. so let's hope that's not far off bc I bought the darn thing, I'll put up a pic soon, driving it home tonight. I need new handlebars and some plastic for starters. well worn parts are fine with me. is there a special klr site online i ought to know about, or should I just use eBay and poke around the usual parts websites? thanks for your help. tw so far has been my only ride ever. the 650 engine is pretty fun!!
 

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No problem. I bought the tools many years ago because I'll always have a KLR around, but I think I payed as much or more for them as Eaglemike now charges for his latest versions, which look pretty slick. Mine is the earlier steel "dogleg" holder tool.

This came up recently when Don Benito bought a KLR. It may turn out that after shipping both ways you'll have spent a fair amount which could have toward the cost of buying your own, but either way the offer stands.

I've done them without the proper tools but you risk boogering stuff up. Xracer may have a more practical method for doing without.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the extra 450cc's make a big difference! love it. but i have to say, for driving off road or in town i'd much prefer the tw (the klr will be my highway bike). and, about the klr's front suspension: either mine is broken or it's just horrible. seems like it travels way too far too fast, feels really weird.
 

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As with most bikes very few owners ever get around to caring for their forks and the problem gets passed down the line from owner to owner. I'm sure there will be several posts to follow which will tell you that you need emulators, progressive springs, etc. but the fact is most contain oil which came over on the Mayflower and have NEVER had the proper oil levels, even when new. Your P.O. has made a few thoughtful changes that I've noticed already and most of them appear to be on track, which is a good sign but no guaranty that the forks are up to stock.

First order of buisiness after doing the regular stuff is to flush and refill those fork legs. KLR's have a natural tendency toward fork dive under braking, but if it's as unnerving and apparent as you've described something ain't right, and that something is the fork oil. Get the old gack out of them pronto, set them to the proper levels with new oil, then see what you think and if it's no longer broke for you, don't fix it. If you plan to use it mostly on-road and if the dive issiue still gets you it can mostly be solved by experimenting with spring spacers. For free.

Just my .02. I'd tidy up the P.O.'s work and roll widdit for awhile. I've learned to get any of my "new-to-me" stuff up to snuff in stock form and put at least a thousand miles on them before changing a thing. By that time RIDING the bike will give you your priorities and you won't blow your dough needlessly like the cool kids.

I've weighed a boatload of them and I can tell you that your bike in its present form weighs exactly 410 lbs. with a full tank (I just noticed the missing stock
instruments, so yours weighs 408.lol) KLR's are farklemonsters, so kick it over and pick it up a few times before you invest in wnat all the cool kids are buying.

Make sure anything you tack onto it does something for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
awesome, thanks for the info. this is going to be my street bike (i just can't bear to have a bike that won't take me off road at all), so i will try the new oil first and see how it goes. my clymers manual is on it way!
 
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