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FYI: The sealer kit has rust killer, alcohol type solvent for full moisture removal and then the sealant. I haven't posted pics here yet but as soon as I do I will send pics of both tanks (inside) from 2 bikes. I have heard of using Navel jelly rust remover to knock the rust out. I just like the prevention factor of the sealant plus the fact that one tank actually had a pinhole which it sealed. I still am running the same tank 10 years now. Your tank didn't appear near as bad. I just did my first carb overhaul at 43000 miles on my TW with a sealed tank. I have had this bike around 20 years now. I am going to send pics of the odometer when I send the pics. Each person has different experiences, just do what is best for you and have fun on that TDUB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Update on my 95. With next step questions.

Put old petcock on and used plastic wrap and fuel hose to create seal to hold vinegar in. See attached pics for after pictures. I shook it vigorously with ACV the emptied and rinsed it with fuel. Installed new petcock, no leaks. Installed gas tank, inline fuel filter, and filled with gasoline and double strength seafoam treatment.

SO.........

I started it up and it is doing the same thing, maybe seems a little better. How long should I run it before I know if the seafoam cleaned what it is supposed to clean? I want to avoid taking the carb off until I know it's absolutely necessary.

I'm now at next steps. Is there anything it might be besides a dirty carb? Bad battery, bad spark plug, something to do with the choke, idle?? Would those cause the issue? If it is a carb issue, where should I focus? Float bowl and jets? Is there a nice step by step anyone knows that is posted? I think I am intimidated by a carb cleaning and shouldn't be, easier than I think right?


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Give it time to work. Every time the engine runs it cleans it a little more. Time will tell.
 

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What Tommy said. If it doesn't clear up it is probably a clogged pilot jet they have a small hole in them. In the mean time read this thread on how do a quick clean without removing the carb. Your carb is slightly different but very close to the newer carb. On my bikes I have to unhook the throttle cables in order to rotate the carb CW to get to the float bowl screws. Use a JIS screw driver the one that looks like a philips but isn't, it's also in the stock tool kit, to remove those screws. Then you can remove the pilot jet to clean it with out taking the whole carb apart or removing it from the bike.

http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/810-lazy-mans-teikei-tk-carb-cleaning.html
 
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Carb. Lucas deep system fuel cleaner works a little faster in my opinion. If you can get some, throw in a couple ounces of that to.
I ordered a JIS set from amazon. So wild, the screws were partially stripped from years of phillips use and the JIS fit perfectly. I will continue to run it, and I am going to check spark and test coil.
 
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You might order up a brand new pilot jet.
 
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Was this problem ever solved? I am facing the same issue on my 125. I guess the carbs are not that different.
Tank is clean, ran the carb through an ultrasonic cleaner.
Pilot jets are not readily avaliable in my country so i would like to check everything before trying to find a new one.
 

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And, to think it all started with a 1995 TW with only 712 miles on it. You will be a TW mechanic in no time!

Look up the thread on cleaning that tank with apple cider vinegar. THAT'S RIGHT VINEGAR!

Clean the tank and screens first. I would wait on the carb tear-down, unless you are ready for more pain. For now drain the float bowl. If you do this carefully and into a clean white cup you may see debris. If so, a rebuild is probably necessary. No crud? Maybe not.

Startron is expensive but at Home Depot, for instance, 16 oz (treats 96 gals) is $14.50. SeaFoam and Lucas are a little less.
Yep. I have used pee gravel and vinegar for many tank cleanings, works very good.
 
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