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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I am new to this forum. I wish to thank all who are a part of it. Lots of great info.

I recently purchase a 96 TW and am going through it. Low miles but has been in storage for quite some time.

I disassemble the carb and failed to take lots of photos. Am trying to figure out where this brass pin goes. Have some experience doing carbs and have not seen this before.

Would appreciate your help in solving this. BTW, this part does not show in any of the carb diagrams.

Also, there is a flat viton type washer in the float area that goes in the carb body where a thin tube is. I managed to find a substitute o-ring that is 2.2mm x 6mm which seems to fit the pocket quite well. I purchased it a the o-ring store. ( a 2.2mm x 5.5mm would also work ) oring for tube pocket.jpg

This flat seal does not show up in any of the carb diagrams. Do not know why it is left out.

Thanks much. carb parts float area.jpg carb part 1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
possible location of brass pin on carb

This pin fits in the hole next to the tube with the viton o-ring. One of the photos shows the pin about 1/8" out of the hole. This is how it would be with the carb in the normal level position on the bike.

Does anyone think this is where the pin goes?
 

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.....Also, there is a flat seal that does not show up in any of the carb diagrams. Do not know why it is left out.........
No one else knows why the flat seal is omitted from the parts diagram, either.

It's been mentioned before. Some use an o-ring as a replacement, some make a replacement out of gasket material.

It's been a few years since I disassembled a TK slide carb....don't recognize the pin you are referring to.

GaryL will know, when he checks in.

jb
 

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Order these parts from the posted link. 4, 5, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 29 and 32 and just rebuild the entire innards. Your main jet nozzle is corroded so I would just start with new parts after a serious deep clean of the body. I have had many Old Style carbs apart and have never seen the brass pin in any of them unless it is the plunger part shown with # 32.

GaryL
 

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Welcome to the madhouse. The brain trust on here are the most helpful people around. I'm not one of them, but totally trust the knowledge here. Best of luck with your TW.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks much for your replies and help. I will order a new main nozzle tube. I bought a Moose carb rebuild kit that is quite complete. The carb parts were soaked in the "good stuff" for 24 hours and then washed in hot water and soap. Then blew out everything and washed again with clean parts cleaner. Seems to be quite clean. The brass pin was hanging things up.
also, the idle jet did not have any shims. Do you think this was done at the factory? The bike only has 573 miles on it. Has been in storage.
 

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Thanks much for your replies and help. I will order a new main nozzle tube. I bought a Moose carb rebuild kit that is quite complete. The carb parts were soaked in the "good stuff" for 24 hours and then washed in hot water and soap. Then blew out everything and washed again with clean parts cleaner. Seems to be quite clean. The brass pin was hanging things up.
also, the idle jet did not have any shims. Do you think this was done at the factory? The bike only has 573 miles on it. Has been in storage.
There is no such part as an "Idle Jet"! There is a pilot jet #11 and main jet #14 and a pilot screw #4. Since I have no idea what you are calling the Idle jet I can't comment on the shim question but as far as I know there are no shims anywhere in the carb from the factory.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1996/tw200h/carburetor

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Excuse me. Meant the needle had no shims. Also, the pilot screw set had no shims. Did the pilot screw have shims and then locked in place at the factory?

The Moose rebuild kit comes with quite a few shims. Will 2 or 3 need to be installed on the needle? Thanks.

BTW, solved the brass pin location. I took the wire off of the float needle valve and the pin fell out. sorry about the confusion.
 

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The stock factory carb has no shims anywhere. There should be a flat gasket or O ring #12 up in the tube where the main jet nozzle goes and another flat gasket/O ring up where the float needle valve goes. The pilot screw set #4 should have an O ring and spring and that is it. The main jet #14 goes into the main nozzle with no washer in between but there is a plastic baffle that slips over it. The small brass part you show sure does not appear to be the float needle because the float needle should be a torpedo shaped part as depicted in part # 17 with a pointed end and a wire retainer holds it to the float tab.
Try to not get frustrated with us but using the terms in the diagrams we link is the only way we can be on the same page here. As far as the Moose carb kit goes and all the thin shims included in it I have no idea about any of that additional stuff that is not in the stock factory carbs. I do know some kits have shims and even others have the main needles that have slots for adjusting it up or down by moving an E clip to different positions. The stock factory carbs have no such pieces but a lot of guys have played around with shims under the main needle and had success in doing so. Here is where it all get a bit dicey. If you will notice part # 19 is the needle set and it is no longer available from Yamaha. I believe the needle and the main jet nozzle should be of the same manufacture because they should be shaped the same so the marry together as designed. When we mix a stock needle with and aftermarket main jet nozzle who knows what the result might be? If your Moose kit comes with both the needle set and the main nozzle then I would use them and scrap the factory needle. The number of shims required is a hit and miss ordeal to get the carb dialed in right. Mixing some factory stock parts with some aftermarket parts has always been an issue without a good result until you figure it out to make it work right. Call me Old School but as long as I can buy OEM original parts from Yamaha that is how I rebuild these carbs. I have never needed to replace the needle in any carb as long as the main jet nozzle was a factory OEM one. I have never found any of the original needles to be corroded or pitted so they fit fine and I re use them in a new factory OEM nozzle. I did once buy an aftermarket kit I think made by Keister and tossed it in the garbage after much hair pulling and never getting it to work right.
Keep this in mind, from 1987 right up until 2000 the carbs are all the same and the OLD STYLE. You can buy a brand new OLD STYLE carb or you can buy parts for your 1996 carb from Yamaha and look for the part to be available from any of the years between 1987 and 2000. If the needle set #19 is not available for the 1996 carb then check the other years for the part #19 and you might find it is available. In 2001 the carbs completely changed but all the ones from 1987 up to 2000 are the same.
BTW, the O ring you found for what you call the Viton tube should be fine. It is actually just a flat tiny washer that seems to be made from flat gasket material and I have had carbs that did not have it at all and still worked fine. That flat washer has never been available.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Gary, the moose kit came with a new needle and jet. I will check the jet size and see if it is the same as the OEM. If not, will order an original jet and reuse the original needle. Will not use any shims until testing the carb.

please look at the attached photo of the brass pin that shows where it goes.

Thanks again !!! brass pin location.jpg
 

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Thanks Gary, the moose kit came with a new needle and jet. I will check the jet size and see if it is the same as the OEM. If not, will order an original jet and reuse the original needle. Will not use any shims until testing the carb.

please look at the attached photo of the brass pin that shows where it goes.

Thanks again !!! View attachment 194960
YUP! I just never saw the float valve pulled apart like that before which is what had me guessing. As long as the Moose kit has the needle and the nozzle with the jet then I would use all those parts together. Do a search here for other who used the Moose kit and did the shim deal and I know for sure there are discussions and what they did that worked well for them. Others have mentioned the kit from Pro Cycle and it might be the same kit as the Moose one and they do work fine. The Needle, Nozzle and main jet should all be from the same kit.
Wow was your carb really trashed with corrosion and I hope you pushed a small wire through any and all of the internal orifices to be sure they have clear passages. Bet it was fun getting the float valve seat out.

GaryL
 
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