Joined
·
51 Posts
In answer to a question asked about a post i made earlier, i promised to take some photos of what i had done about getting higher bars once i had time.
i had time today, so here they are: apologies in advance im a farmer not a techie so the format is going to be.... lacking.
2" HANDLEBAR LIFT WITH HAND GUARDS. Here is the solution i used to get my handlebars higher and attach the hand guards:
![1614066069387.jpeg]()
![IMG_20210222_144608.jpg]()
I used a procycle bar and cycra hand guards. the mount to the left of the turtle made installation a snap: its a cycra 7/8" handlebar clamp mount that replaces the clamp that usually goes over the bar and allows you to just bolt on the inboard end of the aluminum hand guard bar. its part 1cyc-1656-12. easy peasy. kind of expensive, think it was $80 at the local shop. i'm in hawaii so yes - everything is expensive but if it keeps the local parts shop open then i consider it a good investment. BONUS - if you're taller (like i am) it really helps the mirrors clear your arms when you ride so you can "kind of" see behind you. here's the view from my faceplate:
![IMG_20210222_145029.jpg]()
LONGER SHIFT LEVER: i used an ims 313114. i also wear the largest boot available (14) which is actually 2 sizes smaller than my foot so its not too comfy. this unit cannot be knocked up a spline to get extra clearance. i tried. if you do it will hit the engine when you upshift; if you're ok with that i suppose you can because it actually does shift. Here is a picture of my foot in my size 15 orthopedic shoe:
![IMG_20210222_145012.jpg]()
CHEAP BAG FOR CYCLERACKS RACK: i bought a cheap tool bag from walmart with a hard plastic bottom and a shoulder strap. here you can see that it fits like it was designed for it under some (also walmart) bungies. i use the bike to run around town and dont take it off-road yet because i'm still learning to ride it properly so i don't need extreme luggage, just something i can fit my wallet and parts into. i think the bag and bungies were about $30 or so. i use a hard bottom because i have pokey tools (screwdriver, etc) in there and if (when) i crash i dont want to get stabbed. the bag also has a nice wallet sized pocket which i can access without loosing the straps. nice for shopping in safe areas where i can leave the bag on the bike. note: if the rack looks a bit wierd its because i painted it with a hammered finish; not a style thing its an upkeep thing. and yes thats my wallet.
![IMG_20210222_144643.jpg]()
SKID PLATE: went with ricochet, despite the reported noise issues. turns out they were right. so i sprayed an entire can of rubberized undercoating on it in layers over several days. also used rubber washers to mount the plate. problem solved. its the black anodized one so it matches putt-putt better. tape the edges to keep them clean. its about a 4mm layer.
![IMG_20210222_144740.jpg]()
so here it is still waiting for my seat concepts seat which i hope will arrive soon... since i ordered it in november of last year i hope to see it soon.
![211972]()
i had time today, so here they are: apologies in advance im a farmer not a techie so the format is going to be.... lacking.
2" HANDLEBAR LIFT WITH HAND GUARDS. Here is the solution i used to get my handlebars higher and attach the hand guards:
I used a procycle bar and cycra hand guards. the mount to the left of the turtle made installation a snap: its a cycra 7/8" handlebar clamp mount that replaces the clamp that usually goes over the bar and allows you to just bolt on the inboard end of the aluminum hand guard bar. its part 1cyc-1656-12. easy peasy. kind of expensive, think it was $80 at the local shop. i'm in hawaii so yes - everything is expensive but if it keeps the local parts shop open then i consider it a good investment. BONUS - if you're taller (like i am) it really helps the mirrors clear your arms when you ride so you can "kind of" see behind you. here's the view from my faceplate:
LONGER SHIFT LEVER: i used an ims 313114. i also wear the largest boot available (14) which is actually 2 sizes smaller than my foot so its not too comfy. this unit cannot be knocked up a spline to get extra clearance. i tried. if you do it will hit the engine when you upshift; if you're ok with that i suppose you can because it actually does shift. Here is a picture of my foot in my size 15 orthopedic shoe:
CHEAP BAG FOR CYCLERACKS RACK: i bought a cheap tool bag from walmart with a hard plastic bottom and a shoulder strap. here you can see that it fits like it was designed for it under some (also walmart) bungies. i use the bike to run around town and dont take it off-road yet because i'm still learning to ride it properly so i don't need extreme luggage, just something i can fit my wallet and parts into. i think the bag and bungies were about $30 or so. i use a hard bottom because i have pokey tools (screwdriver, etc) in there and if (when) i crash i dont want to get stabbed. the bag also has a nice wallet sized pocket which i can access without loosing the straps. nice for shopping in safe areas where i can leave the bag on the bike. note: if the rack looks a bit wierd its because i painted it with a hammered finish; not a style thing its an upkeep thing. and yes thats my wallet.
SKID PLATE: went with ricochet, despite the reported noise issues. turns out they were right. so i sprayed an entire can of rubberized undercoating on it in layers over several days. also used rubber washers to mount the plate. problem solved. its the black anodized one so it matches putt-putt better. tape the edges to keep them clean. its about a 4mm layer.
so here it is still waiting for my seat concepts seat which i hope will arrive soon... since i ordered it in november of last year i hope to see it soon.
i hear the hammerheads have a long lever with an even longer tip that can be swapped in.
