TW200 Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK - How do I get the carb end throttle cables off?
everything else is loose and ready to come off - do I have to open up the twist grip first to get the cable ends out of the carb bracket? Also - opened up the air filter to see how it was. Seeds came pouring out, at least a pint of them. Mice? Uneaten - so I don't know. Anyway, I'd kind of like to get the whole thing off so I can make sure it is clean - have removed three bolts and about 4-5 screws but it still doesn't want to come free - battery has been removed. Any help will be appreciated. Never had a motorcycle before so common tricks are unknown to me - want to get the carb off so I can clean it thoroughly - it is an 88 TW200. Ran before putting it away last fall - now it will start under choke then give up like it is starved for fuel. Drain screw has been buggered up, doesn't leak but looks mangled. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
OK - solved most of these issues myself - but now...

Vacuumed out the air box - think I got everything and nothing got into the air intake - This could have been my whole problem to begin with! Unbelievable amount of seeds, but I don't think I need to dissasemble any more of the air box. Loosened the twist grip and got enough slack to remove the cable ends and now the carb is sitting in my hands. I will research the forum some more to glean the best carb cleaning advice - I guess I could take it to the dealer but I have cleaned other small engine carbs before. Although this one DOES seem to have a lott of fiddly little parts. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
445 Posts
Step one download the owners manual and the shop manual. Both are on this forum for free.

Step two take photos of anything you are pulling apart before, during and after. Being able to pull up the images to see how it was before can save hours or days and most phones now have good enough resolution and zoom for that purpose.

Step three ask any questions or for any help you need. We're here to help.

Enjoy it, it's a great feeling working on your own bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Got the carb off, cleaned out the air box food cache, reset the float as per GaryL's instructions (10 degree, 20 degree tilt made no difference btw) inspected the float needle - looked good so did not go further into the float chamber, used a guitar e string to probe all the jets, set the pilot screw to 2.5 turns and blew out all with carb cleaner. Put it all back together and... ITS ALIVE!!!!!! Took the customary 5 minutes or more to warm up so that I could turn the choke off entirely. Took it for a spin in the driveway in the rain to celebrate! But I have a problem with that rubber fitting that connects the carb to the airbox. It is just too hard and shrunken to fit right - at this point it is barely connected. I need to get a new one but it is not obvious to me how to get that thing out of there and the new one in. If you keep turning it will it rotate out of the airbox? None of that procedure is clear from the manuals.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
18,069 Posts
If I remember right, there is a lip on that boot that goes inside the airbox. You have to kinda collapse the boot to get it in or out of there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Yes, the air intake boots turn into hard plastic over time. It just pulls out, but it's hard to do. I did it with a pair of channel-lock pliers with really long handles. Just squish it down as best you can, squirt some silicone lube all over, or maybe WD-40 and use a dull flat blade screwdriver to pry it out. The boots are available online for about $25 or, and get this, $90 at a motorcycle dealer, and they have to order it, just like you do online. I have a temporary fix on mine until I install a new boot. Wrap duct tape around the junction, making sure it adheres to the intake of the carb, and sloppy over the boot. Then take a couple of tie-wraps and put one over the carb intake and one over where the groove in the boot is. Cinch them down and while it looks like something Red Green would do, it will probably be fine for a decade.
cnc200
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,109 Posts
Not sure what year you have but I just bought a boot here for $18 and free shipping. They take a little while to ship but they are the place I order single parts from because they have good prices and free shipping. I also buy jets from here since they're $2.50 each shipped!

As for removing and installing the boots, I used a heat gun on the boot to make the rubber soft and then it slips right in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I've got a boot coming for about $20, Thanks for all the advice, I'll wrassle the booger into place somehow. Next I'll have to get a screw extractor to get the drain plug out - it is fouled beyond help. Thanks for all the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Since your in this already and if your TW has not been rejetted and the like ,why not do it now ?.
I guess I have been following the let sleeping dogs lie credo - It is running pretty good right now, so I have less incentive to dive into it further. I doubt I put 100 miles a year on it so as long as I keep it clean, gas drained and sea foamed in the winter I might not have to mess with it much more. BUT if I have to take the carb off again in order to get the airbox boot installed, maybe I can be convinced. Should I just start replacing all the parts, jets, float, float valves. etc????
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top