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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 2010 T-dub and have been looking thru all the threads about carb tuning. I also discussed this with the

tech at my dealer. I am somewhat confused by many of the threads on carbs because I can't determine which carb the poster

is refering to.



So, my question is whether or not a 2010 TK carb's needle has more than one position for the circlip, and if it does, why can't you just change position of the circlip instead of adding shim washers?



As an aside, why the hell does Yamahammer call the pilot jet or pilot screw that instead of an idle jet or idle screw?


Oh Lord, won't you give me an English Bike!
Must be a mid-life crisis....I so want a Norton Commando!



Rocky



PS, Querty if you read this my neighbor told me why to change the oil at 5 hours! (not 5 miles) Get that factory machining crap out of there ASAP! Not to mention looking for some really big surprise! I once took a chunk of metal the size of a pencil eraser out of a Lycoming's oil screen
....I never did find out where it came from, and the damn engine ran for 15 years with no problems!!!
 

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...So, my question is whether or not a 2010 TK carb's needle has more than one position ...


There is only one position for the circlip.




jb
 

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Discussion Starter #3


There is only one position for the circlip.




jb


This could have been determined if only I had time before my trip to dis-assemble the carb, but I don't, so thanks a lot! I don't suppose you might know the exact dimensions of a suitable washer to shim with so I can take one with me and use if it I need it a sea level? The dealer was no help, you can't buy just washers.



Thx



Rocky
 

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Tiny washers, maybe 1/8-inch or 3mm. Take the needle to a hobby shop, about the only place to get washers that size.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Tiny washers, maybe 1/8-inch or 3mm. Take the needle to a hobby shop, about the only place to get washers that size.


Hi Querty,



Just been reading some of your old posts about jet size...If I have this right, the stock jet is 125, which is why my new bike runs perfect at 5800 ft. However, I'm going to Death Valley for a couple of weeks and will be breaking it in there between 0 and 4000 ft, mostly on dirt. From what you said, I probably ought to get a 130 to take with, since your older posts indicated that this was the easiest and quickest way to get in the ballpark for mixture, especially in the field, where I really would rather not be fooling with the needle jet washers.



Yes or no? Or can I break this bike in with the stock jet there and quit worrying until summer when I can do testing and tweaking at home to get it just right? (up to 10,000 here)



Rocky
 

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You can do whatever you want. Unless it is really hot, the 125 or 126 (they come with a 126 in '11), will do no harm. The bike may be hard to start, take forever to war up, surge at midrange cruise, have crappy off-idle throttle response, and knock when lugged, but if you can live with all that, the stock jetting is fine.
 

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Hmmm?

2010 parts list SKU:

5FY-14343-63-00 JET, MAIN (#126)

2003 parts list SKU:

288-14343-63-00 JET, MAIN (#125)

288-14343-64-00 JET, MAIN (#128)



The change seems to have begun with the 2009 models.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You can do whatever you want. Unless it is really hot, the 125 or 126 (they come with a 126 in '11), will do no harm. The bike may be hard to start, take forever to war up, surge at midrange cruise, have crappy off-idle throttle response, and knock when lugged, but if you can live with all that, the stock jetting is fine.




Well, maybe I can live with that for a week or two...as long as I won't burn it up!!!
I only got three more business days before leaving. Doubt if that's enough to get a 130 from Stadium, but maybe I can get them to send it to my step brother in Bishop, where I'll be for a day or two...worth a try.



Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hmmm?

2010 parts list SKU:

5FY-14343-63-00 JET, MAIN (#126)

2003 parts list SKU:

288-14343-63-00 JET, MAIN (#125)

288-14343-64-00 JET, MAIN (#128)



The change seems to have begun with the 2009 models.




Yeah, I noticed the same thing in my searches at stadium and boats.net, although often a 2010 T-dub is not specifically listed. I wonder what the difference between the 288 and the 5FY series is. At any rate, Stadium won't ship a jet until March 16th at the earliest; I'll be too far out in the boonies by then to get it. Plus they want $15.75 shipping on a $3.48 part! Genuine Yamaha parts don't seem so bad at that.
By the time I ride near sea level again a year or two from now I ought to have got all this dialed and all the parts I need to make these changes while out on a trip. Thx again for the info.
 

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Whatever. Failing to properly prepare one's motorcycle for riding in the wilderness is one of the main reasons there are some people with whom I will not ride. Take your hiking boots.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hmmm?

2010 parts list SKU:

5FY-14343-63-00 JET, MAIN (#126)

2003 parts list SKU:

288-14343-63-00 JET, MAIN (#125)

288-14343-64-00 JET, MAIN (#128)



The change seems to have begun with the 2009 models.




Another option that I thought of going to sleep last night is to get a stock #126 jet (5FY-14343-63-00)and take it with me, then drill out the existing #126 jet to be close to a #130 jet. This would allow me to return to stock if it was a bad move. The only problem with this scenario is I have no idea what the orifice in a #130 jet is! I can measure the stock jet this weekend, at least fairly close with a digital caliper and some test wire, but until I know how jet # relates to orifice size in mm or thousandths, I don't dare drill.



At the very least, I will drill the pilot screw cap out and make a short tool for it, and maybe add a washer (about 0.010?) next to the circlip, or just make one to have on hand, as you indicated this was the minimum tuning I could do to get thru a couple weeks at sea level without major unpleasantness.



Your extremly detailed and well written tuning explanations have really helped. The last time I worked on a motorcycle carb was about 1971, and it was probably an Amal! Things sure have changed.



BTW, I searched the old forum and found your step by step carb dis-assembly with pictures, and I wonder if those pictures still exist somewhere since the old links are broken? Having an exploded drawing handy is OK, but nothing beats a good set of photos!



Thanks,



Rocky
 

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Maintaining the ability to return to stock is always a good idea, especially since most opf your riding is >5000ft.



Most Yamaha dealers have a box of jets, since just about every motorcycle carb from Japan takes one of 3 or 4 types. The '00-'08 jets were used in several bikes and 4-wheelers. They should have some on hand, but odds are they haven't a clue what they are looking for. I made my "130" by drilling a 128 one bit size bigger. Now, what "one bit size bigger" means depends on the interval in your bit index. The index I use is in a tool shop, and probably has 1000 different size. With that set of 8, 1/16-1/2 bits in 1/16 intervals, one size bigger isn't going to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Maintaining the ability to return to stock is always a good idea, especially since most opf your riding is >5000ft.



Most Yamaha dealers have a box of jets, since just about every motorcycle carb from Japan takes one of 3 or 4 types. The '00-'08 jets were used in several bikes and 4-wheelers. They should have some on hand, but odds are they haven't a clue what they are looking for. I made my "130" by drilling a 128 one bit size bigger. Now, what "one bit size bigger" means depends on the interval in your bit index. The index I use is in a tool shop, and probably has 1000 different size. With that set of 8, 1/16-1/2 bits in 1/16 intervals, one size bigger isn't going to work.


Yup, I figured at the very least I'd need a number drill set, mine is just a regular 1/16 to 1/8 by 64ths, then 1/16ths above that. I'd have to be pretty lucky to hit the 130 orifice.....especially since I don't know what it is!




Maybe my tech at the dealership will have an idea of how many thousandths it is up from 126 to 130. At any rate, I accomplished adding a washer (found one in my old parts bin that only needed a little filing to fit) and gaining access to the pilot screw today, so even if I don't get the jet opened up I'll probably be OK. In DV you may start a ride at sea level but within 15- 20 minutes you're above 2000...every ride I know off pavement there is pretty steep.



Also installed the Yuasa Motocross YTZ7S AGM battery...pretty amazing that that little thing is 2/3 the size of the stock battery but puts out 130 CCA as opposed to 80! The original battery had sat on the showroom floor for probably 6 months and barely took a charge, so they offered to replace it but I declined in favor of the AGM.



Tomorrow the barkbusters then the wide pegs, if D2moto ever gets them here. Then all I have to do is find 2 hours between snow storms to ride a few more miles and change the oil and I'm set to go!
I sure am sick of temps between -15 and 30! Been like that for three months now, this is one cold winter here.
 

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Discussion Starter #15




Great....thanks for the link...I thought I'd looked pretty thoroughly....Wish I'd seen them before I tackled the carb earlier today!
It now becomes apparent to me that you probably need to hold a wrench on the main jet housing to remove the main jet without also backing out the housing...I think I might have to grind a thin 10mm (or whatever it is) before I try to swap jets, although that cheap wrench in the tool kit might work. A picture is sure worth a thousand...well, at least a carb rebuild! Also need to find some little Allen screws (probably 4mm?) to replace the phillips, then I ought to be able to accomplish a jet change without removing the carb.
 

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Sounds like you got it all together.



I expect you'll be doing most of your riding about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle uphill and idle to 1/4 throttle downhill. with the needle raised and the pilot screw opened up you will probably have no problems. I've tuned several Tdubs just like that for folks who only ride around town and rarely see more than 45mph. Much improved throttle response and still returns 65+mpg on E10 and 75-80mpg on E0. I'm running the 130 and get mid-70s in similar usage on E0, so there is some efficiency advantage to sticking with the stock jet.



Good luck getting the the oil changed and filters cleaned before your trip. If it doesn't work out you can always ride a few miles first thing, then do the oil change and clean the filters on the trip. It only takes a few minutes.



It is possible to make carb adjustments without removing the carb. Remove the cables, loosen the hose clamps, and twist the carb in the boots. Only necessary for the adjustments on the needle. The pilot screw and all jets can be accessed with custom length tools, tight, but can be done. Allen heads are a big improvement in convenience.



You are going to have a ton of fun.
 

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Sounds like you got it all together.



I expect you'll be doing most of your riding about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle uphill and idle to 1/4 throttle downhill. with the needle raised and the pilot screw opened up you will probably have no problems. I've tuned several Tdubs just like that for folks who only ride around town and rarely see more than 45mph. Much improved throttle response and still returns 65+mpg on E10 and 75-80mpg on E0. I'm running the 130 and get mid-70s in similar usage on E0, so there is some efficiency advantage to sticking with the stock jet.



Good luck getting the the oil changed and filters cleaned before your trip. If it doesn't work out you can always ride a few miles first thing, then do the oil change and clean the filters on the trip. It only takes a few minutes.



It is possible to make carb adjustments without removing the carb. Remove the cables, loosen the hose clamps, and twist the carb in the boots. Only necessary for the adjustments on the needle. The pilot screw and all jets can be accessed with custom length tools, tight, but can be done. Allen heads are a big improvement in convenience.



You are going to have a ton of fun.


Follow up to this thread after the trip: I added a washer under the needle and backed the pilot needle out one turn and then turned it back in a half turn later in the trip. The T-DUB worked flawlessly the whole trip!!!! It started immediately every time, it accelerated smoothly even at 200 feet below sea level, it got me there and back every time without the slightest hiccup, only a slight hunting just off idle on the downhill below 1000 feet or so. I was VERY pleased with its performance and handling with a 13 tooth front sprocket..just right for my riding. I did have a ton of fun with NO SURPRISES, just the way I like life at 65!



With the stock jet I got 90 miles of rough, mountainous riding in second, third, and fourth before going to reserve...Amazing! 115 miles total and still probably a 15 mile reserve at 40mph. I carried a gallon and a half as back up, but now I think I'll just get a 30 oz. MSR Fuel Bottle as permanent reserve.



I put 350 miles on it and would have done more if the weather hadn't turned colder and windy. I changed the oil again at 300 miles and feel like the break-in is done. I put some fiberglass around the spark arrestor and it's so quiet that I can idle up behind hikers on a downhill and if they are talking they don't even hear me until I'm less than 50 yds away...what a GREAT little bike!



It's been rare in my life that I could buy a new machine of any kind and take it on a long trip without a trial or break-in period and have absolutely NO issues....KUDOS for Yamaha!!!





Rocky
 

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You've been assimilated.
 

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<chuckle> A gallon and a half isn't reserve... that's a refill!!




I've been pleasantly surprised at my mileage around town here in Georgia. With the way I twist the throttle on the hills & occasional highway riding, I thought I'd be doing a lot worse. Been getting mid to high 60's on the last few E10 fill-ups. Can't find any E0 nearby. I'd still like to mount a 4 gallon tank. Gonna have to look for a cycle graveyard near Atlanta.






 
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