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I have a 2019 tw with 12 miles on it I bought new I put a DG Slip on on it and thats all. I try to ride and even after letting it warm up for 10 min it dies soon as i go to give it any throtel, the only way to keep it running is to keep the choke half way. Do i need to adjust the air/fuel mix screw or should i take it back to the dealer where i bought it??
 

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I think you’re on the right track with the air fuel screw, but if you’re still within the 6 mos warranty I would take it to the dealer. Did this just happen all of a sudden or has it always been that way? Changes in weather and altitude often affect the functionality. Let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it has been like that since i brought it home. it run like that at the dealer and they said it should level out once everything gets warm and set in. I just got the bike in December
 

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Yeah definitely make them figure it out. Is the dealer far from you or PIA to get it there?
 
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Just what would you expect the dealer to do or say other than repeat something like their original observation that "it should level out once everything gets warm and set in"?
This is a legitimate question.
Like the exhaust change I imagine they will view opening up the cover to the mixture screw as a possible warrantee voiding activity, much less adjusting said mixture screw.
I imagine there is only so much a dealer can bill Yamaha Motor Corp for when it comes to warrantee work on a just sold machine.
Certainly they can be nice and reassure you, possibly warm bike up thoroughly and confirm idle speed is within specs and then have customer ride it around . But I would not expect much else unless your dealership is one of the few very good ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
that is why i never opened it up i will let them “Tune” the bike since it is under warranty. the dealer is about an hour and a half away
 

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Most likely the DG is causing it to run lean. Put the OEM muff back on and if the problem goes away you will need to increase the main jet size, maybe to 130. Or, you could just pop a 130 in there and see what happens. Half choke (enrichment circuit) is approximately equal to 4 to 6 jet numbers up. Turning out the idle jet needle screw to 2.5 turns will help once you get the main jet sized right. There is no such thing as a mixture screw on the TW, go do some homework in the technical write-ups section. Here's a good place to start: https://www.tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/591-carb-tuning.html

And: https://www.tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/881-tk-carb-photos-parts-identification.html

This is good too:
 

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Once again, just exactly what do you expect the dealer to do to "tune" the new machine?

There is nothing to "tune" on a new TW under warrantee in order to keep it under warrantee other than to confirm it was set up properly from the crate. They can confirm that things are correct like the enrichment plunger is working, fuel in tank, idle speed correct, etc but there is nothing to change, or "tune" on a TW under warrantee that takes awhile to warm up. They can, and will likely, dismiss your concerns as a result of the non-factory exhaust modification. You can put the stock muffler back on prior to dropping TW off at the dealer to avoid this critique then re-install the DG Slip On after you pick bike back up again but it doesn't alter the fact that DGs typically benefit from potentially warrantee voiding jetting changes. If they can't get the bike to run properly with the stock exhaust maybe they can install a new carburetor or whatever turns out to be necessary and then bill Yamaha Motor Corporation for the parts and labor, but I would not hold my breath.
Maybe your West Virginia dealers are less reluctant to incur in-house expenses as well as performing potential warrantee voiding activities like opening up the carb as out here. I consider the warrantee as fairly worthless in that it restricts what an owner or dealer can do on their own.

If you do authorize them to do anything try to get in writing that said authorization does not constitute a voiding of your warrantee.
 

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Bottom line – you modified the bike by putting an aftermarket exhaust on – the dealer has no obligation beyond that point. They sold you a bike that in its original state ran just fine - as soon as you changed that original state, it’s on your shoulders

Tough love – but that’s the way it is

The DG slip on can be made to work, but it can take months of experimentation according to altitude. Expect very little power gain (in the scheme of things), but every one behind you will be impressed at the noise it makes, including the LEO’s that you go past in town

Works on paper – pain in the butt otherwise, which you seem to be finding out

No criticism, just an observation - the DG (on its own) only complicates things – there is no such thing as a free lunch …….
 

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Note: We are assuming OP's bike "that in its original state ran fine", this may not be true. See post #3.
Wonder just how cold it was in December as well as now.
Recently rescuing a stranded KTM in sub-zero weather we had to pour hot water over the throttle body and head before engine would start. Temperature does matter.

However one can certainly annoy anyone behind you with the DG Slip On since it directs the exhaust flow slightly upwards. This is good enough to deliver a nice blast to the face of anyone standing, or on a bike about 5 feet behind you. Discourages tail gaiters. Just like a horse of a mule that can kick it is not wise to hang around the rear of a DG equipped TW:p
 
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I see two paths: 1, put the exhaust back to stock and try a dealer/warranty solution, or 2 a DIY try. 1 seems like a huge PIA to me, and I tend to agree with Fred that unless they are a good ol' boy shop that is very interested in your satisfaction, they may say it starts and runs, have a nice day. If I were to guess, I'd say that the pilot screw (green screw in the above video) is in too far. We've had multiple reports the past couple of years on new TWs where the factory forgot to unscrew the pilot at all before installing the plug. So JPeek, since adjusting the pilot screw is one of the first things recommended to do/check anyways on a TW since they are set very lean from factory anyway is to give the DIY fix a try. Especially since you are putting on an aftermarket exhaust that will likely require a jetting adjustment or two alone. The service manual says that this screw's stock adjustment is .95 turns out from a light seat. Most here find 2.5 turns out a good rough setting, fine tuning from there.

If you choose number 1, you might mention that it is known on the forum that some owners of brand new TWs found that their pilot screw was turned all of the way in after exhibiting symptoms like yours. They might pop the plug and at least check it and adjust it to a stock setting for you. If you choose number 2, we'll walk you through it.
 

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Also what size silencer (I can't remember the correct name) do you have at the end of the muffler? Too big and it will hurt things for sure, just something else at the same time. I have the 1.25". My bike is set at 130 main jet, 34 pilot, and haven't touched the needle or any other settings, for what it's worth for comparison.
 

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I doubt the DG has anything to do with this issue but it's a logical assumption

I suspect the pilot jet was partially plugged even before you bought it from the dealer and they rarely fix (ie clean) themselves so now it has started to clog more and simply needs to be cleaned

It's very simple to remove the carb and pull the fuel bowl and remove and clean or replace the pilot jet. While you have the carb off you can remove the aluminum cap over the idle mixture screw and check to see the screw is at least 1.5 turns out from closed then I'd change it to 2.5 turns out unless your elevation is 5000 feet or above

I have seen them turned all the way in from the factory

changing pipes in my experience doesn't change mixture settings significantly on these relatively low flow air pumps

after cleaning the pilot consider running non ethanol fuel or always storing the bike with non ethanol in the carb if it's going to sire more than a week
 

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I'm confused about who out the DG on? You or the Dealer?
This is such a simple bike you really have to work at screwing it up.

I'm always frustrated when folks do these mods without letting the bike at least break-in or at least getting used to it. Now it becomes a mystery of who is at fault.
My recommendation is (if "YOU" changed to the DG), put the stock pipe back and see if that makes a difference. At least going back a step you can eliminate one possibility.
The advice from the dealer that it'll work itself out sounds like they are clueless or don't care.

So go back to step zero. You don't have a monopoly on stuff like this. I have worn the Pointy Hat many times over the years. To cover my pointy head.
 

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Starting and riding a TW with factory settings takes a little experience .. Ride the bike more ! You have only used a cup of fuel !! Get the bike up to speed with half choke then push the choke all the way in and ride for awhile at 40-50 mph.
 

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Starting and riding a TW with factory settings takes a little experience .. Ride the bike more ! You have only used a cup of fuel !! Get the bike up to speed with half choke then push the choke all the way in and ride for awhile at 40-50 mph.
I will try that tomorow I rode it today in the yard with the snow on so no speed 2nd gear but i will take it down the road tomorow and see.
 

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I slightly disagree about the DG affecting the bike tune . I know it does. As many know I bought my bikes almost new at a great price because the PO’s couldn’t tune the carbs after installing DG pipes. I think your pilot jet is glogged already also. You can turn the carb to the side to access the bowl to to remove the bowl and get to the pilot jet and clean. While turned remove the plugwhich is in front of the bowl, because YOU will need to do this anyway to adjust it out to 2 -2 1/2 turns out. Whoile you have the bowl off I would put in a 130 main jet. Get it from the Yamaha dealer or online. The part number is in the tech stickies. Look at all the carb tuning posts you can find. I learned to tune my carbs from this forum. There is a you tube video on adding shims to the needle. Shims really made the throttle response way more snappy not required if you want stock throttle response. The Seafoam may help unclog your pilot jet but I have found hard deposits from ethanol gas which I removed with strands from a copper wire. It is easier to replace with a new one. All of the screws are JIS Not Phillips so you need JIS screw drivers to undo the bowl screws and clamp screws around the carb, drain etc. I recommend buying a new bowl gasket to have as a spare. Parts one 130 main jet, one 31 pilot jet, bowl gasket. If you live at sea level where it is warm a 34 pilot jet will help your bike start with out the enricher. You need to remove the front plastic side panels near the tank and undo the throttle cables to turn the carb in the boots to access the top and bottom of the carb with out remove it. You could have your dealer do these mods. One of my bikes I bought back from a dealer after it was traded in and running crappy the dealer put in a 128 main jet and removed the pilot plug and adjusted the screw out to 2 1/2 for me. He didn’t have a 130 jet in stock. You can order these jets over the phone and pick them up for no shipping get the part numbers here or on line.

My bikes were still under warranty only 6 months old. I am not sure these mods voided the warranty. I didn’t care because I wanted them running right even for break in as they were way too lean before.
Happy tuning.
 

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"I slightly disagree about the DG affecting the bike tune . I know it does."

Totally agree. The bike should run perfect right out of the dealer.
You want to bolt on bigger pegs, different turn signals, other bolt on stuff like that there will be no performance differences.

When you change the exhaust pipe you are changing the way the bike was tuned at the factory.

I have a DG on my old xr250L. It will not run at it's best unless I modify the tuning a bit to accommodate the difference in air flow (less restricted). And it HAS to be tuned perfect as it's a kick-start only bike.

That's why I recommended to the OP just go back to stock to make sure something is not wrong with his bike. Usually when you make these changes with a 3rd party accessory you also may be voiding your warranty too. That's why I asked if "he" or the dealer did the install. If it was them and they did nothing else to the bikes tuning then I'll repeat, they are clueless. It's not just about a different "sound" or shiny exhaust. Your bike can run better with it. But not that much better if you don't mod a bit. That's the extra effort. If you have bolted-on one of these and done nothing and not noticed any negative change (assuming you ran and run the bike prior) congrats, you've got those "magic grits",.

But in this case it could be covering up something that is wrong with the bike in the first place.

A 2019 with 12 miles and pretty much a cookie-cutter as basic-as-you-can-get bike, should run perfect stock.
So go back to stock and see if there is a difference. A 30 minute exercise so you can stop guessing.


xr with DG. No longer factory spec tuned. Close but not exact anymore because of the pipe.
IMG_8750.JPG
 

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I have a 2019 tw with 12 miles on it I bought new I put a DG Slip on on it and thats all
Everything said on this thread (so far) has been pertinent, but let’s take a closer look at the chronology …..

One: The OP buys the bike, but it runs like crap
Two: The OP puts a DG slip on – and it still runs like crap

So, the first thing to do is return the bike to its starting point, eg re-fit the original exhaust.

At this point, the most likely culprit is the idle screw not being turned out enough. You can find more info on how to do this here - https://www.tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/881-tk-carb-photos-parts-identification.html - you need to be looking at the 5th photo

In this 5th photo, you will see that a drywall screw has been used to remove the brass blank covering the idle mix screw. The only purpose of that brass blank is to stop people from messing with the factory settings, which obviously is the first thing we’re going to do here

You can simply loosen off the rubber carb clamps and turn/rotate the carb still in its place for access, this is considerably easier when the bike is still new. Then using a very small drill bit, drill a hole in that brass plug that’s just enough to insert the drywall screw. Be careful not to drill too far, or you’ll hit the screw you’re after underneath. A lit bit of fiddling around later, you should be able to get the drywall screw into that brass blank enough to prise it out (as per picture #5). The brass plug can now be discarded as we don’t need it anymore

Now the pilot/idle/mix screw has been revealed, screw it all the way in (gently), making a note of how many turns it takes to do so. As has been said by others on this thread, Yamaha never gives it enough turns out, to get the bike the bike through emissions tests, resulting in fucked up throttle response especially when cold. So what we want to do is get it set to two to two and a half turns out. Don’t worry, it will stay in that position quite happily without the brass plug you just threw away. Then rotate the carb back up-right, re-tighten the rubber clamps, and the jobs done

Now, your bike should start more easily, be more responsive to throttle from cold, and warm up in seconds. You now have your bike back

The dealership may or may not do this for you, if you explain the problem to them, what the cure is, and if you present your bike in the same state that you bought it in — eg no DG exhaust, just the original. IMO, they would be within their rights to decline, but then a little bit of goodwill goes a long way — keep it civil, or they’ll just fob you off and point to Yamaha

Now then — presuming this cures the problem (and I have no doubt that it will) — review your position on that DG slip on. Do you really need it, and what do you hope to achieve by fitting it. As I said in an earlier post, you cannot expect to just slip it on there and all will be well. You will need to re-jet the carb to compensate — there’s no such thing as a free lunch

As to how to re-jet the carb for a DG, I’ll defer to those who have done this. There is a wealth of knowledge on this board, and a lot of good people prepared to share that knowledge with you — all you have to do is “ask” …….. ;)
 
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