[Bobman]

I’ve been carefully breaking it in now have about 400 miles on it

I’ve fixed the air fuel mixture issue, runs perfect off idle and starts fine

but with a half to full throttle I’m getting a rattle which I think is it running lean

Fwiw I’m not intentionally running it above 1/2 throttle but sometimes ( rarely) it’s unavoidable due to traffic

im new to the forum and can’t find this info for this year bike all the info I’ve come across was for older bikes

I need the following info

pilot and main jet size recommendations
Yamaha Part numbers and sizes
Source for genuine Yamaha parts
Factory Manual source

elevation ranges from 1100-3000 feet I run 93 octane just like in my Harley

Ive been riding motorcycles since 1962 ( yep I’m old) I’m very familiar with carbs but not too swift on the internet

thanks in advance

Bob

 

[easy e]

Partial answer...
Source for genuine Yamaha parts: Select the TW model you have: Yamaha - Motorcycle - 2022 OEM Parts | Partzilla.com
Factory Manual source: (5) Service and Repair Manuals | TW200 Forum

The "search community" function is invaluable... use quotation marks... select Advanced Search... select "titles only"

(edit) PS: welcome to the forum, we like pictures (show us your bike). Knocking/Pinking is bad... if that's what you have... you probably are already familiar with the term: Pinging/pinking; piston detonation; BMW Airhead motorcycles (bmwmotorcycletech.info) I've had an issue with it once because the timing was too far advanced (on a two stroke).

 

[PlacerLode]

I doubt it's lean enough to create a rattle these TW motors are a little rattly by nature

 

[Leisure Time Larry]

im new to the forum and can’t find this info for this year bike all the info I’ve come across was for older bikes

I need the following info

pilot and main jet size recommendations
Yamaha Part numbers and sizes
Source for genuine Yamaha parts
Factory Manual source

elevation ranges from 1100-3000 feet I run 93 octane just like in my Harley

Hey Bob, welcome. FYI, engine and carb are all the same since 2001.

Here is a thread with good carb photos for part ID: TK Carb Photos and Parts Identification

Here are the jet sizes and part #s: TW carb jet part#s

The 31 is the common pilot jet. The alternative is the 34. Most can get away with sticking with the 31, but many like the 34, especially in the warmer climates.

Your bike probably has a 126 main jet in it. Mine did. For me, the 126 was too lean near sea-level, as were the rest of the stock carb settings. However, up in the mountains (4000' +) it was awesome. 126 to 128= noticable difference in all around performance with the bike. Butt-dyno says she pulls harder and is more fun. 128 to 130= very similar, but felt too rich to me, but better than the 126. Because it felt the best out of the three, because I do go to the mountains to ride, because it's probably slightly better gas mileage wise...the 128 is my jet. The needle definitely needs to come up, and the pilot screw needs to come out. Your butt-dyno, along with the carb tuning instructions, will tell you how much. For the needle, people seem to either use 0.010" shims or washers to raise it up. I went cheap and easy and got a couple of 2mm flat washers from Ace hardware. They mic'ed out at 0.022" thick for me. Two of them seems perfect. Finally, the screw. You'll need to get that metal cap off. Most just start a sheet metal or wood screw into the little hole and then grab the screw with some vise grip or something to pull it off. It takes a very narrow flat tip screwdriver to fit into the hole and adjust the pilot screw. I suggest getting a small driver like the orange handle ones that come with Stihl equipment. A dealer should have one for you cheap or free. and then cut off all but 1/2" of the handle. Then you'll have something to adjust with on the fly and when the carb is on the bike. 2-1/2 turns out is a good rough starting point. I settled at 2-3/8.

Last tip. The phillips head screws on the bike are not...they are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). A phillips screwdriver can easily strip them out. Use the screwdriver inside your onboard toolkit, or get yourself a set of jis drivers.

Good luck!

 

[Bobman]

Thankyou very much that’s the info I was looking for

I really like this forum it’s very helpful

 

[Snapper33]

Bobman, welcome to the forum. The above answers are good.

Since you are taking notes, these are mine: We usually break down the 2nd Gen carb tuning to three atmospheric brackets: Sea level to 4,000, 4K to 7,000, and 7+. At sea-level, if you want best fuel efficiency go with a #128, 2 flat washers under the needle, and 2.25 turns on the pilot screw. Higher than 4000 feet or so go with a #128, 1 flat washers under the needle, and 2 turns on the pilot screw. Above 7000 feet, #126 main, 1 washer, 1.75 turns on the pilot screw. main jet #126, 128 & 130.
(Part #'s
288-14355-63-00 = 126;
288-14355-64-00 = 128;
288-14343-65-00 = 130)

 

[Snapper33]

Bobman: I know you’re a multi-decade rider and wrencher. Please take no offense to an offer of a video for TW oil change. The filter orientation, and oil gallery bolt check are somewhat unique to this bike. Catastrophic engine seizure can occur if these two things are not correct/checked. Humbly submitted video.

 

[Bobman]

Thanks for the heads up on this issue