[Hobopoet]

As I've indicated in this forum, I got a great deal on a new 2010 TW this past December from my local dealer. Well, it looks like he's trying to get even. I just got a quote for the 600 mile service: $250.00+!



This includes a new chain but everything else is straight out of the owner's manual. I've seen other posts here that were much cheaper. What have you found?

 

[RodneyReed]

Go and pickup a quart of mobil1 racing4t oil (or whatever oil you prefer), a new paper filter (unless you want to clean the re-usable stock one), and get a DID 428V oring chain. Download the manual from the technical help forum, and for about $75 (or less) and 1 hour of your time, you'll be up and running. Qwerty recommends changing the oil much sooner and on some pretty tight intervals on the new bike, so I would consider doing a search on the forum and follow that if you can. Learning to do it yourself will benefit you more in the long run as well. That's my two cents worth.

 

[deno2002]

What size chain? I have stock sprockets. Thanks

 

[peruano]

What size chain? I have stock sprockets. Thanks

The only part of the 600 mile that you might not want to do as a noobie is the valve clearance check. Changing oil, reuse that stock filter after cleaning it carefully, and installing a new chain (maybe you want a friend to assist or coach you) are all feasible and things you should learn to do. The number of links in the chain are the same or only a couple more than you have now (the manual undoubtedly says how many). You need a good independent mechanic and not a Yamaha dealership. Proceed carefully, but proceed. Tom

 

[qwerty]

Motorcycling is an expensive hobby unless you can do your own maintenance. I highly reccommend doing your own service simply to save money. Generally, the tech who does the carbed singles is the least experienced in the shop, and the results are often not good. A 2nd excellent reason to wrench your own.

 

[RodneyReed]

I wasn't thinking clearly when I recommended the mobil1 racing 4t. You should probably go with a non-synthetic for the next couple of oil changes. Valvoline 10w-40 motorcycle is good.



My bike was pre-broken in when I got it.



Don't be afraid to learn how to check and adjust the valves. It's fairly easy.

 

[shocker]

One of the glories of the TW is the easy to do maintenance items it requires. Usually, the biggest issue is getting started. After that you will reflect on it and say to yourself "that was easy"!

 

[qwerty]

Valvoline 4-Stroke Motorcycle oil is what you want to use. It comes in 10W-40 and 20W-50 and is available at Advance, Auto Zone, and O'rielly's..



You do not want anything labeled "V-Twin" because those oils are generally not resistent to shearing in transmissions.V-Twin isn't a bad oil, it just doesn't have the correct properties for a TW.

 

[Clyde]

I just had the 600 mile service done at a dealer plus carb cleaned as it was not running good at all. After $350 it was running worse than before. Being throughly disgusted and after reading in this forum, I took off and checked the carb myself and in so doing I noticed a part that fell out so in checking I found out it was the main nozzel. Once I put it in the proper place and all back together, it ran great & still is. Point is- I am staying far away from dealerships and relying on this forum and the fellows that are hands on and know how to get er done.

 

[greendub]

I just had the 600 mile service done at a dealer plus carb cleaned as it was not running good at all. After $350 it was running worse than before. Being throughly disgusted and after reading in this forum, I took off and checked the carb myself and in so doing I noticed a part that fell out so in checking I found out it was the main nozzel. Once I put it in the proper place and all back together, it ran great & still is. Point is- I am staying far away from dealerships and relying on this forum and the fellows that are hands on and know how to get er done.

with the service manual and the help from the great folks on this site you can have a bike that you are confident in. when you have a problem and you solve it it won't be a problem again. It is a bike you will own forever if properly maintained. Learn to enjoy working on it, learn to love riding it and then learn to explain to your wife or girlfriend why tw time is important to stay sane!

 

[elime]

Did I miss something? Keep your chain clean and oiled and it should last a lot longer than 600 miles.



The one I have now I clean and oil every 250 to 500 miles depending how dirty it is. I know some people don't like to do it but I don't mind. I have over 13K miles on it and it looks great, like it will easily last another 13K miles. Maybe a lot more.

 

[Solomoriah]

Did I miss something? Keep your chain clean and oiled and it should last a lot longer than 600 miles.

Yeah, no kidding. I'm at over 3000 miles with the stock chain. Probably have it changed by a pro around Christmas. I've been using DuPont Multi-Use Dry Wax Lube (aka "Chain Saver" in industrial form) since I got the bike, and it works fantastic... the hardened-peanut-butter chain is really holding up pretty well.



My dealer did my valves for $60.00 in March or thereabouts.

 

[dizzle2]

thankfully, my dad is an auto mechanic and has owned motorcycles all his life. he gives me the knowledge and i put it into action. i have free reigns over their machine shop so i can take out valve retainers really easy with a machine they got and remove the valves to clean them and grind out the valve seats in about an hour or less. not to mention i am on summer break so i have a whole lot of time to work on the tw. its more fun and relaxing than anything

 

[qwerty]

A well-maintained TW will not need valve work until well beyond 50,000 miles.

 

[rmartin]

I have 5500 miles on my stock chain.



I put lube on it after each ride. I don't do the whole chain, ony about 8" that you can get to on the back of the big sprocket. I just keep the can by where I park it.



Give it a quick shot each night.



Then I lube the whole chain maybe once a month.

 

[qwerty]

I have 5500 miles on my stock chain.



I put lube on it after each ride. I don't do the whole chain, ony about 8" that you can get to on the back of the big sprocket. I just keep the can by where I park it.



Give it a quick shot each night.



Then I lube the whole chain maybe once a month.

I have 27,500 miles on a SROZ o-ring chain. It gets lubed when it starts to rust. It's been adjusted twice in all those miles, once at about 600 miles after install, and again a few hundred miles ago, since it is worn out and starting to stretch. can you believe that piece of crap only lasted 27,000 miles?