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I just put my 2nd Yuasa to rest since 2009. I'm not having very good luck with them. Checked the water often and kept on a battery tender jr..



I just shelled out over $135.00 for a new Shorai battery LFX14L2-BS12 . So far I love it. It better live up to the hype
!!! If it fails the first thing I do will be to post it here.



I have read tons of good reviews on several sport bike forums about them so I have high hopes.



Specifications Voltage (V): 12



A/Hr PbEq: 14 (See Bottom Of Page)



Cranking CCA (A): 210



Weight 1.6 Pounds



Max Charge (A): 14







The last great battery threads





http://tw200forum.co...battery-survey/ (Sorry Qwerty)



http://tw200forum.co...1/ShowPost.aspx















Q. How does the LFX "PBeq AHr" capacity rating compare to lead-acid Ahr ratings?

A. First, we need to understand that the primary job of a starter battery is to flow a large current (amperage) for a short time, in order to start a vehicle. In order to do that efficiently, the battery must have low internal resistance. Holding all other considerations equal, the larger the battery is in capacity the lower the resistance, and the better able it is to crank a vehicle under high loads.



Lead-acid makers have therefore used AHr(capacity) ratings as shorthand to indicate cranking ability, rather than a real usable capacity. The lead-acid capacity rating itself is based on a complete discharge at a low discharge rate. Under actual cranking conditions they will deliver considerably less than spec capacity. And because lead-acid batteries begin sulfating when only a small percentage of the capacity has been used, and their internal resistance rises as they are discharged, the actual capacity which can be USED may be as little as 20% of the mfg. rating. Discharge in excess will not only damage the lead-acid battery, it may not allow proper starting as voltage sags.



Shorai LFX are based on a completely different chemistry. Not only do they have less than 1/3 the internal resistance per capacity than do lead-acid, they are also the ultimate "deep-cycle" battery. The internal "completely discharged" capacity of a Shorai LFX is 1/3 the rated "PBeq" capacity. For example, the LFX18 12V series have 6Ah cells internally. But the cells are capable of 80% discharge without damage and while retaining more cranking ability. As such, the USABLE capacity(or "reserve capacity") of an LFX18 12V battery is on or very near par with 18AHr-rated lead acid batteries, while providing superior cranking performance and a vast reduction in weight. The Shorai PBeq AHr (lead-acid equivalent) rating system therefore allows users to compare a very different technology from lead-acid, but on a close apples-to-apples basis when making a choice.









Q. How does the LFX "CCA" cold-cranking rating compare to lead-acid Ahr ratings?

A.CCA ratings another way that lead-acid makers have tried to convey starting power. Unfortunately, their typical spec is based on a "half-nominal-voltage" delivery. That is, at their CCA spec, you can expect 7.2V delivered, at best; and 7.2V isn't useful, as you won't start a vehicle with it...



In any case, CCA ratings aren't about actually drawing that much current from a battery. The typical vehicle which uses a 200A CCA-rated battery, for example, will only draw 45A~80A from the battery. What the CCA rating really intends to convey is how much voltage will be delivered. Higher CCA rated batteries will deliver more voltage at the same actual cranking current. Our LFX are CCA rated to deliver 9V for a 5-second crank at the CCA rated current. (in fact, our average voltage delivered will be even higher during a 30-second crank. But our CCA ratings are intended to indicate not only a measure of voltage at true cranking currents, but also proper usage, which lead-acid do not) At actual cranking currents - which are always well below CCA, LFX deliver up to two volts more than an equivalent-CCA-rated lead acid battery. Current alone won't start anything. It is the current multiplied by voltage that does the work (watts). In reality, this means that you can multiply the LFX CCA rating by 1.5x to compare to a Lead Acid battery CCA. For example, our 270A CCA LFX18 series provides about the same cranking voltage as a 405A-CCA-rated lead acid battery (from a quality lead-acid maker; some CCA specs we've tested on the cheapest lead acid seemed to be plucked from thin air).
 

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My fear with my DRZ and with the TW with NO kick start is you in a gully and 6 inches of water with a bike that won't crank.



I am naive but only Yuasa has a 40 year reputation for quality that I know of.



I also keep her on a "tender" type charger and change it next year 5 years regardless of how its acting



Shorai I don't think it has the real world experience yet, If I wanted to save 3 pounds I would cut out some carbs for 2 weeks.
 

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All good points. I have the Shorai, and so far have been amazed at its performance. I left my headlight on when I took it to the store last week, & after chatting up the cute clerk for far too long, came out & discovered what I had done. I turned off the key, kicked back for about 10 minutes while I adjusted my groceries into my cargo crate & back pack, turned the key on & pushed the starter button. It cranked like normal & started right up.



I like my Lith battery, but here is my feelings. Just like computer batteries, or for that matter, lead acid batteries, they will only perform well & last a reasonable amount of time, ALL depending on how they are cared for.



I like the Lith battery (Shorai) because there is no acid & acid related corrosion to contend with, no electrolyte maintenance, and it has lots of power.



If you do a lot of off road, you might conceder the kick start kit. You'll find it on this forum. m.
 

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Rich

Based on some comments on the Forum, I just purchased a Shorai battery from atbatt.com and it should arrive shortly. I have a 2007 Tdub and the battery they recommend is LFX09L2-BS12 for model years 87-07. I noticed you cite LFX14L2-BS12. I'm curious why they stoped at the 2007 model. Any idea? What year is your Tdub, and what led you to the 14 rather than 9? Thanks.
 

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I checked the specs between the two Shorai batteries I mentioned earlier, the 09 and 14. Same size and voltage; the 14 has higher Ahr and whr values and is a bit heavier. So it looks like to me that both work for the Tdub, but the 14 is a bit more heavy duty and a bit more expensive than the 09. My guess is that the 09 represents 9Ahr and the 14, 14Ahr for about a $40 price difference ($150 vs $110).
 

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I've haven't run my bike for a little over a month now. I went out and it was stone dead today. My voltmenter was reading only milivolts in it..





I've let it sit twice this long before with the stock battery.





I checked for parasitic draw and found none.



I'll see how it comes back. The shorai in my daughter's quad is still holding up well. Poor battery hasn't even had it's first birthday yet, it has only seen about 800 miles of use. If it's toast I'll see how my warranty holds up.



I rode the bike for 45 minutes and then put it on a battery tender jr. It took 20 hours @ .75 amps before it was fully charged. .



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFCT-YZbU5o[/media]



Shorai emailed me back and offered to replace it asap.
 

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OK, I'm giving a quick update on my Shorai battery. I installed it back around the end of Feb. 2012, and it has provided excellent service so far. The bike has been sitting for a good three weeks, as I pulled my back & am giving it a chance to feel better.



So here is the test. The bike has been sitting for three weeks +, with no type of battery tender on it. I went out to the barn just now, about 54deg. F, & started the bike. The bike had satisfactory cranking power, & started up ok.

But it was apparent that it was not up to full power. I think from my observation, that, just like a lead acid battery, if the bike is going to sit for any length of time at all, it must have some sort of battery tender used, and IMHO the bike should be started up at the very least, once a month & allowed to run for 10 minutes, if at all possible.



My two conclusions as of this date, First, (new) The Lith batteries (like the Shorai, etc.) are just another good type of battery that for many riders may be a better choice for their situation, but must be maintained just like any battery, or you will have issues. And second, (old, tried & true.) is all vehicles, be it tractor or motorcycle, must be ran at least once a month, this insures that it will remain running well. Nothing likes to sit for too long. (I could make a joke here, but I'll spare everyone... this time.) m.
 

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If 14AH will fit into the space of 7AH I'm all for it.



Just waiting for my latest lead-acid battery to die an ickygooey death while reading the experiences of others with the newfangled technology.
 

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I've haven't run my bike for a little over a month now. I went out and it was stone dead today. My voltmenter was reading only milivolts in it..





I've let it sit twice this long before with the stock battery.





I checked for parasitic draw and found none.



I'll see how it comes back. The shorai in my daughter's quad is still holding up well. Poor battery hasn't even had it's first birthday yet, it has only seen about 800 miles of use. If it's toast I'll see how my warranty holds up.



I rode the bike for 45 minutes and then put it on a battery tender jr. It took 20 hours @ .75 amps before it was fully charged. .



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFCT-YZbU5o[/media]



Shorai emailed me back and offered to replace it asap.




So, what is the end result Rich.....did Shorai send you another battery or did you go back to lead acid?.
 

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They sent me a fedex return label, But I've got a ride planned this weekend so, I'm sending it back Monday.



Just sitting on my bench the battery goes from a full 13.75 to 12.1 in about 8 hours.
 
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