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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody, I'm 19 years old and a first time TW owner. Just bought a 1994 TW200 in amazing condition with 940 miles on it. Sat for 15ish years with sparse maintenace from what I was told. When we brought it home, it would run very poorly at idle but was able to take a spin around the yard. We cleaned the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner and ran it through 4-5 times. Changed oil, new battery, inspected for any loose or shorting connections, harness is all intact. This bike is damn near spotless. I did just about all I could think of as far as regular maintenance except changing the spark plug (noticed a little bit of grey on it but it looked alright until I grab a fresh one.)

The carb had a decent amount of crud in it, but we got it looking new. We adjusted the idler screw to 2 1/2 turns from seated (from what I read from you guys) and checked the float height at 26mm from the top of the float to the rim of the carb in the upside down position.

The throttle slide would stick a little but when you twisted the handle. Disassembled that, cleaned it, and it now moves freely and snaps back normally.

The Problem: After reassembling everything she fired right up, however, as soon as you gave it a little bit of throttle, it would struggle to run, and it idle at very high rpm and return to normal after about 5-10 seconds. Even though the throttle cables were not sticking. Any suggestions?

Thanks alot for the help guys.
 

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Even though it only has 940 miles on it it is still a 23 year old motorcycle. The "rubber" manifold from the carb to the head is probably so stiff it will not seal properly. The one to the airbox is probably shot, too. Oh, and clean the air filter, if ya didn't already. Also, many here use ultrasonic and report good success. I always soak mine in carb cleaner (nasty shit!). I think your slide is still sticking. Maybe some Lucas or Seafoam before you tear into it again.

Note: The idle screw is on the side of the carb near the fuel "switch". You probably adjusted the pilot screw (bottom of carb and inside a recess?).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The rubber manifolds were in pretty good shape, no cracks or chunks missing. I sprayed starting fluid near the edge of the rubber to see if the motor would surge but nothing happened so I'm not sure about vacuum leaks near the carb. New air filter too.

But you're correct, I adjusted the set screw on the bottom of the carb to 2 1/2 turns from seated. I thought it was the Idle mixture screw. Too many different names for these damn things. I didn't mess with the idle speed screw on the side of the carb until it would reach a stable rpm. But I'll definitely try some Seafoam in case my slide is still sticking.

Thanks for the help!
 

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When you took the carb apart did you take that little plastic linkage apart instead of removing the screw into the slide?. I did this and ended up with the same problem you describe. Ran like crap and wouldn't idle down. I didn't notice the little spring inside that plastic link that keeps tension on the linkage. I actually broke the little spring putting it back together. I pulled out the spring and gave it a stretch and it ran perfect after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When I took the carb apart I didn't dismantle the slide assembly, I just made sure it moved freely. When I get a chance to tear into it again I'll look for the linkage you're talking about to see if I can find anything out of the ordinary.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Had this happen. Tight exhaust valve! If you have not checked your valves do this before tearing into the carb.

jt
That was it! Both the intake and exhaust valves were extremely tight. Adjusted both to spec and she purred like a kitten. Thanks a lot man.
 
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