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Discussion Starter #1
This started in this thread --



http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/3107-battery-shutoff-switch/



...as a means to save the drain on the battery. It seemed a simple enough idea, so I thought I'd give it a go. It was so easy, so simple, and so elegant a solution I thought others should know about it.



I'd provide photos, but I didn't take any when I did the job (which took maybe 10-minutes max).



Here's how ya do it..



(NOTE - We have learned that this mod will only work on pre-2001 TWs which have the slider-type headlight switch. If you have a newer bike with a rocker-type switch, don't do this... It will not work and will likely ruin your switch)



1. Remove the plastic part of the headlight switch be removing the Phillips-head screw on the side of the thumb-switch.



2. Pull up on the switch to remove it. Also remove the thin metal plate underneath it.



3. Be sure the key if in the "off" position while you do these next steps. You don't want any power flowing.



4. You will be elongating the slot the switch moves in at the -TOP- of the slot. (This is the position above the High beam position.



5. I used a Dremel tool to do this. You could probably use a small drill bit as well to delicately nibble away about 1/16" - 1/8" of plastic at the top of the slot.



6. Turn on the Key so you have power. Now push the switch from the Low, to high, and now beyond that into the new position you have created at the top. If the headlight goes out and the switch will stay there in that position, you are done. If not, nibble away at the top to make the slot a wee bit longer. Keep testing until you get it to work.



7. Reassemble the switch and enjoy your new 3-position headlight switch!



Yeah.... I know U.S. DOT would not approve of this modification as they have a "headlights on all the time" regulation for motorcycles. (And so you did not learn this mod from me nor do I officially endorse it.
)



But... off-road, when you want to save the drain on your battery a little or run w/o a headlight for any particular reason, this new "Headlight Off" position is what you need.



You may also want to know that you will probably expose the switch to a little more entry of any moisture by elongating the slot, so if wet weather is an issue when you ride, you may want to figure out a way to seal the switch a little better (not that it is all that sealed from the factory anyway.)



Also... this will not be a "run-dark-stealth-mode" as your tail/brake and turn-signals will still operate even with the switch in this new Off position. If someone can tell me how to easily do a mod to turn those things off too when I want, I'll be really excited!



Happy Trail(ways)!
 

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This started in this thread --



http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/3107-battery-shutoff-switch/



...as a means to save the drain on the battery. It seemed a simple enough idea, so I thought I'd give it a go. It was so easy, so simple, and so elegant a solution I thought others should know about it.



I'd provide photos, but I didn't take any when I did the job (which took maybe 10-minutes max).



Here's how ya do it..



1. Remove the plastic part of the headlight switch be removing the Phillips-head screw on the side of the thumb-switch.



2. Pull up on the switch to remove it. Also remove the thin metal plate underneath it.



3. Be sure the key if in the "off" position while you do these next steps. You don't want any power flowing.



4. You will be elongating the slot the switch moves in at the -TOP- of the slot. (This is the position above the High beam position.



5. I used a Dremel tool to do this. You could probably use a small drill bit as well to delicately nibble away about 1/16" - 1/18" of plastic at the top of the slot.



6. Turn on the Key so you have power. Now push the switch from the Low, to high, and now beyond that into the new position you have created at the top. If the headlight goes out and and switch will stay there in that position, you are done. If not, nibble away at the top to make the slot a wee bit longer. Keep testing until you get it to work.



7. Reassemble the switch and enjoy your new 3-position headlight switch!



Yeah.... I know U.S. DOT would not approve of this modification as they have a "headlights on all the time" regulation for motorcycles. And so you did not learn this mod from me nor do I officially endorse it.



But... off-road, when you want to save the drain on your battery a little or run w/o a headlight for any particular reason, this new "Headlight Off" position is what you need.



You may also want to know that you will probably expose the switch to a little more entry of any moisture by elongating the slot, so if wet weather is an issue when you ride, you may want to figure out a way to seal the switch a little better (not that it is all that sealed from the factory anyway.)



Also... this will not be a "run-dark-stealth-mode" as your tail/brake and turn-signals will still operate even with the switch in this new Off position. If someone can tell me how to easily do a mod to turn those things off too when I want, I'll be really excited!



Happy Trail(ways)!








Is there away besides intricately placing the switch in both high and low for better light? If I play with the switch I can get the low and high beam to light up, but it is delicate and it does work. Any advice to keep it there, if I hit a bump it goes back to low>>>>
 

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Bad plan. Doubles the wattage on the system.
 

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Bad plan. Doubles the wattage on the system.


+1. A friend of mine used to do that on his four wheeler, until the headlight housings literally melted from the extra heat generated. Probably not an issue on the TW, but as lizrdbrth said, the extra wattage probably is.
 

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I wouldn't run both lights either, but I sure like the mod to turn the headlight off, if it's that easy. It's a toggle switch... Gonna have to tinker with that one. ^5 for that one Truelight.



Oh, it's for the older model... dang!
 

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Just to be clear before anyone destroys their switch, this mod ONLY applies to pre-'01 switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My bike is a '93. Explain why this is a "bad plan" and what will happen if I run the bike with the switch in this position? (Are you referring to TWBARR's idea of running both High & Low beams at the same time or mine of the new "OFF" position ? I can see how running both would generate extra heat, but totally off - what harm might that do?). Will this mod work on Post '01 bikes and if not, why not?
 

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Just to be clear before anyone destroys their switch, this mod ONLY applies to pre-'01 switches.
Might just have to do this mod to my '89. I would also like to have a switch to turn off all tail/brake turn lights so could go in total stealth mode as I sneak up on my prey....LOL
 

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Is there away besides intricately placing the switch in both high and low for better light? If I play with the switch I can get the low and high beam to light up, but it is delicate and it does work. Any advice to keep it there, if I hit a bump it goes back to low>>>>




Bad plan. Doubles the wattage on the system.




My bike is a '93. Explain why this is a "bad plan" and what will happen if I run the bike with the switch in this position? (Are you referring to TWBARR's idea of running both High & Low beams at the same time or mine of the new "OFF" position ? I can see how running both would generate extra heat, but totally off - what harm might that do?). Will this mod work on Post '01 bikes and if not, why not?


Truelight, lizrdbrth was replying to TWBARR about his idea being a bad plan for the TW application.
 

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Truelight,



I was referring to attempting to run both filaments at once. Your description of the mod is spot on. My own are modified the same way.



Late models have a short-throw rocker switch . Early models are a slider with sliding contacts. Completely different critters.



I'm looking at a late model switch right now and I don't see any way to accomplish the same thing without a seperate switch or aftermarket switchgear.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Truelight,



I was referring to attempting to run both filaments at once. Your description of the mod is spot on. My own are modified the same way.



Late models have short-throw rocker switch . Early models are a slider with sliding contacts. Completely different critters.



I'm looking at a late model switch right now and I don't see any way to accomplish the same thing without a seperate switch or aftermarket switchgear.


Add this to one more reason (the other being a kick starter) I'm glad I have an older TW. (Gotta keep finding reasons to stay satisfied with an older bike!
)
 

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No need for envy. Thanks to Mother Yamaha there's no clear advantage to either series.



Truly baffling situation.
 

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A "Stealth Machine" should be pretty easy to mod. I have only been to the wiring diagrams, but there are 2 spots, one for the headlight switch, and another that would do everything else, with or without brake lights. Neither gets into the ignition and the battery stays where it can catch extra juice being charged from not using the lighting circuit. Neutral light still works, but the horn would need to be on another wire, if you want it. Of course, this is on paper and reality might be tougher.

GB
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So answer this... The reason I want to be able to turn off the headlight is to help save the battery. If my charging system is not sufficiently charging the battery (which I what I suspect), the more lights and such that are on, the faster the battery is being discharged, correct? By turning off the headlight, I presumably slow the discharge rate on the battery, correct? (And, if I'm really lucky... maybe the system will be sufficient to charge the battery so long as it doesn't have to power the headlight too.) Is my logic correct here?
 

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So answer this... The reason I want to be able to turn off the headlight is to help save the battery. If my charging system is not sufficiently charging the battery (which I what I suspect), the more lights and such that are on, the faster the battery is being discharged, correct? By turning off the headlight, I presumably slow the discharge rate on the battery, correct? (And, if I'm really lucky... maybe the system will be sufficient to charge the battery so long as it doesn't have to power the headlight too.) Is my logic correct here?


Correct. And correct. If it is your charging system that is faulty you are buying yourself time to acquire the funds to replace it. Obviously, your use will determine the time frame....no road time without headlight and signals, but if it's off-road (and your local rules don't require a headlight on the trails you're riding) you can run like this as long as you want.
 

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The biggest issue I have had is not having lights for the the other guy. When my battery has been seriously low, I aim my head light to the side at intersections, and have not been questioned by the powers and principalities. When it is off, I often forget; I didn't write the headlight-always-on

bill. When I was learning to drive a car, you shut the headlights off if you stalled it. GB
 

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Can anyone do a search one the old Forum to see who gets the credit for this? I have found it to be quite impenetrable. I think it was in 2009,

maybe 2008. Or IM me to shut up if you are to humble. GB
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm not looking for any credit here. I'm just passing along my experience with my mod. Had it not been for the members on the forum who mentioned this trick they'd heard of from someone else back in the past, I'd not have known of it.



I still intend to run with the headlight on while street riding for the obvious safety reasons, but while on the trail, I'll likely turn it off to save a little load on the battery.
 
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