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Could be that by dyno-jetting the bottom and the mid, you did so at the expense of the top end

Anyhow - welcome to the board, I'm sure others will add their thoughts as to what ails you ......
 

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And there you have it – it’s your jetting, your gear ratio, you’re too tall, your air box is full of mice, your CDI is failing, your valve springs are shot, and you have bad compression along with clogged fuel filters and bad gas, combined with a duff spark plug

While we’re on the subject – have you checked your tire pressures ? - (I see kj beat me to it), and added a tight chain and air intake leaks to the mix

Meanwhile, there’s someone on here who’s selling a TW that does 80mph

Confusing ‘aint it

How can such a simple thumper be fraught with so many potential problems …… :cool:
 

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Just do some preliminary checks – and in this order, which is mostly financial

1/ Compression test – if it passes, move onto step 2
2/ Fuel flow. Remove hose to check flow, check float level – if it passes, move onto step 3
3/ Gotta be done, air filter, intake hose, spark plug – cheap to check, needs to be eliminated
4/ Re-set jets to original – if no change, we start spending money – move to step 5
5/ Gear ratio. Life’s a bitch, get yer wallet out, new standard sprockets

That only leaves spine surgery and CDI’s, both of which are a tad expensive

If you take this one step at a time, you’ll see what works and what didn’t – do it all at once, and it just confuses things. By step 5, you’re on a minimal outlay, and most of the “process of elimination” will be done

Keep in touch with your progress, and we’ll be happy to confuse you further – but on the bright side, every man needs a hobby ……..
 

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I like to think my TW200 is fairly typical, pretty much standard, not tuned for speed etc – it’s a 1998 JDM, no carb mods, no fannying around with the pilot screw, just as it comes out of the box. Fresh oil, fresh air filter, fresh battery – but that’s about it - (all other mods don’t affect speed) – 14/49 sprockets, revs freely throughout the range

Rider is 6ft, 170 plus gear, and wears an armoured jacket to catch the wind, riding at sea level

On a windless day, and on the flat, I can wring 65mph out of that thing, and maybe push 70mph downhill if I’m feeling suicidal. Into a headwind, more like 60, and into a headwind and uphill, closer to 55 to 60. At 65mph, the engine sounds as mad as a box of frogs, and closer to 70, like it is going to explode just before it rattles my teeth out

I’m happy with that, it’s what I’d expected, I know the engine won’t grenade on me, and most of the roads here are 60mph limit anyway (with enough twisty bits to keep the traffic at that speed – with the odd tractor thrown in – hooligans don’t last long in these parts)

Now let’s take a look at your situation. Previous owner gets hold of it, can’t believe it’s that slow, traffic constantly overtaking (you know the routine), and tries to get it to run faster and not to sound like it will blow up at any second – changes the sprocket gearing, realises that just makes it worse, and dumps the bike

You rock up, buy the thing, and can’t believe the mess the PO has made of it (and he has)

Things you’ve done right, is to try a dyno jet for your elevation, and resisted pratting about with the exhaust. Thing you did wrong, was stick with that gearing. It’s killing the bike – that and your tire pressure. The manual it a bit hit and miss, but I’d suggest 19/19psi to see how fast it goes on tarmac, and then lower as needed for trail use – 15psi is low for highway speeds

At an elevation of 6000, sure, it starts to tell, the old school carbs are great for maintenance, but it does get a bit “hands on” at that point. Try 9000ft and see what you get - you could run along side

And thus, we return to the first question most people ask – “Is it really this slow ?” (along with how to make it faster)

The answer of course, depends on your needs. In it’s original form, the TW is capable of climbing a tree, but you cannot make a mule into a race horse

Return the gearing back to standard, and see how you get on – (put a bit more air in the tires, every bit helps) – and then what you see is what you get, and it’ll either be good enough or it won’t

But for all it’s “modern day faults”, I still bet you that TW will take you further than those oranges ….
 

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As most of us “long timers” with the TW have discovered, you first have to get used to the bike, and then meld your own abilities to those of the bike – it has to be a meeting of both, you can’t “force” a TW

Fred can get them to dance, Admiral can get them to stand up and be counted – for my part, I can (at least) get them to put a grin on my face

That’s what it’s all about – the rider accepting the bike, and the bike accepting the rider. It’s more about “faith” and less to do with coercion – a partnership, almost a meeting of minds

This whole “concept” is why the TW has such a close knit following – the TW is more than “just a bike”

(If you haven’t read it already), there’s a book called “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance” – sure beat the heck out a Yamaha manual ……
 

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This is what happens when you walk on the dark side - the VanVan - it has claimed many victims ......
 

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From memory, it's something like 140 to 150 on a good crisp engine - YMMV, it's not a precise art, and you have to take individual bikes into account

With a good tight fit, open the throttle wide, and crank the heck out of it - that should give you an accurate reading

Then squirt some heavy oil into the cylinder, and repeat the test above

If the two test runs vary due to the oil, this indicates worn piston rings - if there's not a lot of change, look at the valve closing first

Lack of compression plus the gear ratios would explain much ........
 

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My memory has been sent a slap - 128 it is (seriously thought it was higher)

The problem is - at 5000 ft, it's lower

Anyone got a slip stick ? .......
 
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