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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
None of this is brilliant insight. I wish I had read something similar. It would have saved me some time. So I'll put a couple of notes in. Most things about these bikes have been said before, maybe this is one or two of 'em.

The particular accessory in this case was grip heat; a Kimpex set. The item doesn't matter, it's the process.

1. The wiring diagram is a logical representation of the mess. It has nothing to do with the physical layout. A connector drawn immediately adjacent to a control may well be three feet away. Those new to sorting out wiring may not know this is a true fact. Realize that a bunch of wires shown going to a connector are NOT drawn in the way they physically connect in that connector. You need the color codes to sort that.

...which leads to this problem:

2. The color codes for the wiring are probably wrong; the bike will NOT match the manual. Mine are. That being the case, make NO assumption about anything. Example: Looking at the schiz, brown is the color of switched hot through the main switch (key). Obviously, then, every brown wire in the harness is switched hot. Right? Look at it. It goes everywhere! Nope. Not every brown wire is switched hot. It might show 12VDC when you turn the key 'on', but that does NOT mean it is switched hot. It may be the energized leg of a completely different sub-system. You can get a hint of a problem if you look at the other side of the connector to see what that brown wire you're looking at is connected to in the harness. IF the connector changes color of wire transiting the connector, that is a real good time to pay attention to what's going on.

3. Before doing any splicing, dummy the connection up to make sure it works. This is so obvious, I'm sure everybody does it all the time. Problem is, you get to thinking you're sure of something without checking it. You make the changes to the harness and end up with a flashing turn ID light on the dash...and an accessory that doesn't work!

Gee. How would I know that?

ONE flashing indicator for TWO switch positions? For both left AND right? That tells you enough to KNOW something is 'different'.

Take a piece of solid copper know Romex of old...strip off 1/2" or so, pound the copper flat-n-thin, trim the edges. Now you have a test piece you can insert into the back of a connector to test 'stuff' using necessary clips/fuses/meter connections without taking anything apart or having to violate the integrity of the harness.

4. Never trust what you KNOW is a good ground..if you don't know that it is. Best to use the battery as a 'ground' when testing 'stuff'. THAT you know is ground. Things made of metal that are solid and are certainly ground...might not be. You the whole front end of the bike. I knew this one already...but throw it in for fun.

A btw: I picked up my switched hot under the tank from the bundle going to/from the main switch.

No. It wasn't a 'brown' wire! ;)
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