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Gang,
Well, once I got my recently purchased, 2007, 582 mile (on the clock) TW running, I immediately changed the oil. Now, the manual says 1.1 quart with the filter change. Who, in their right mind, would change oil WITHOUT changing the filter? I mean, this little motor works its guts out to power us around so, why not do a COMPLETE oil change? Anyway, as stated, the manual states 1.1 quarts. Well, I put in one quart and, stood the bike up to as much of a straight up vertical position as I could and, that little window was almost completely covered in BRAND NEW OIL. I started the bike and ran it for about 5 or so minutes. Then, let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and stood it up vertical again and, the oil level was again, in the same spot and almost covered the glass completely. I did not install the other .1 of a quart. So, the question is, do you boys buy two quarts and use just a tiny amount of the second one and, do that at each oil change 'till the second quart is used up? Or, do you just put in one quart and be done with it?
Scott
 

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So far it's just been a quart at a time, but that would mean that it's a little lower each oil change. I even have a base gasket leak and haven't had low oil yet. I just try to please the sight glass without overfilling, really. Too much oil can be a problem for seals and the life of the engine so do avoid that. I figure if I run low for some reason, I'll open another quart and keep it around until I need the next quart for an oil change and just rotate the old oil like food, always having an opened jug. That said, I haven't needed to do that yet.

The filter on these doesn't really hold oil like your car or truck and such, and it's even reusable. I keep a spare so I can alternate but I just clean them with penetrating oil and a brush.

Oh and one more thing, make sure to open the bleed bolt for the oil in the head a little bit when you start it and check for oil flow. Making sure it's getting up there is a good habit.
 

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Did you warmed up the engine and waited for it to fully drain?
In my car at least, I changed the oil twice without previously warming up and it didn't fully drained both times.
Also, you drained from the drain bolt beside the shifter,not the drain bolt at the oil filter housing right?
Maybe, if the bike was neglected and way overdue of an oil change,there is sludge buildup in e.g. the sump taking volume away from the oil?
I wouldn't use an overfilled engine though.
You may just burn it,but worse things can happen too...
Oh and one more thing, make sure to open the bleed bolt for the oil in the head a little bit when you start it and check for oil flow. Making sure it's getting up there is a good habit.
+1
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So far it's just been a quart at a time, but that would mean that it's a little lower each oil change. I even have a base gasket leak and haven't had low oil yet. I just try to please the sight glass without overfilling, really. Too much oil can be a problem for seals and the life of the engine so do avoid that. I figure if I run low for some reason, I'll open another quart and keep it around until I need the next quart for an oil change and just rotate the old oil like food, always having an opened jug. That said, I haven't needed to do that yet.

The filter on these doesn't really hold oil like your car or truck and such, and it's even reusable. I keep a spare so I can alternate but I just clean them with penetrating oil and a brush.

Oh and one more thing, make sure to open the bleed bolt for the oil in the head a little bit when you start it and check for oil flow. Making sure it's getting up there is a good habit.
Yep,
That's what I do is, satisfy the sight glass. The ".1" quart ain't gonna happen. Not that I can't afford another quart and, just use a tiny bit from it when I change it. I just kind-a wanted a consensus on how many diy types actually put the .1 quart in when doing an oil change. I didn't "bleed" it when I changed it 'cause I didn't know about the bleed screw. I will next time. Now, as for oil filters, well, it may really not need to be changed and can be re-used, I'm not one for putting an old filter back into place. So, I got this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07811MH2G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are correct in all features. Just too darned cheap to not insert a new one, each oil change. But, that's me so, take that for what it's worth. Thanks for your response here.
Scott


Did you warmed up the engine and waited for it to fully drain?
In my car at least, I changed the oil twice without previously warming up and it didn't fully drained both times.
Also, you drained from the drain bolt beside the shifter,not the drain bolt at the oil filter housing right?
Maybe, if the bike was neglected and way overdue of an oil change,there is sludge buildup in e.g. the sump taking volume away from the oil?
I wouldn't use an overfilled engine though.
You may just burn it,but worse things can happen too...

+1
Well Sir,
Yes, if you read my post, you'd see I did start it up, ran it for a while and then shut it down AND, I let it sit for quite a few minutes BEFORE I drained it. Yes, I used the regular drain bolt, next to the shifter. And, although this little TW might have been a tad bit "neglected", it only had 582 miles on it when we bought it a couple of weeks ago. So, "overdue" for an oil change, well, probably not. In fact, I'm not sure but, right around 500 miles might be the correct time for a new motor (New TW mileage from original purchase date and time, not "rebuilt or new motor installed in the bike) to change the oil anyways, correct? So, even then, if this was the case, then that engine was only 82 miles over the 500 mile mark. So, most likely zero chance of "sludge" build-up. I have changed oil in a zillion vehicles, motorcycles and more and, have done it when the engine is dead cold, warm and HOT. And, I've always got the same amount of oil out of them in either case. The only real difference is, the oil drains a bit faster when the engine is hot.
Scott
 

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Yep,
Well Sir,
Yes, if you read my post, you'd see I did start it up, ran it for a while and then shut it down AND, I let it sit for quite a few minutes BEFORE I drained it. Yes, I used the regular drain bolt, next to the shifter. And, although this little TW might have been a tad bit "neglected", it only had 582 miles on it when we bought it a couple of weeks ago. So, "overdue" for an oil change, well, probably not. In fact, I'm not sure but, right around 500 miles might be the correct time for a new motor (New TW mileage from original purchase date and time, not "rebuilt or new motor installed in the bike) to change the oil anyways, correct? So, even then, if this was the case, then that engine was only 82 miles over the 500 mile mark. So, most likely zero chance of "sludge" build-up. I have changed oil in a zillion vehicles, motorcycles and more and, have done it when the engine is dead cold, warm and HOT. And, I've always got the same amount of oil out of them in either case. The only real difference is, the oil drains a bit faster when the engine is hot.
Scott
I did read your comment,and you say that you warmed the engine after the oil change.
Also,even though the engine has 582 miles, it's 12 year old,and if it has hever had an oil change it will 100% have "sludge" and it's way "overdue".
Well, I put in one quart and, stood the bike up to as much of a straight up vertical position as I could and, that little window was almost completely covered in BRAND NEW OIL. I started the bike and ran it for about 5 or so minutes. Then, let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and stood it up vertical again and, the oil level was again, in the same spot and almost covered the glass completely.
Scott
 

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I get my engine good and hot and as soon as I shut off the engine I crack open the drain plug and even the fill plug and it drains quickly. The oil is pretty hot on the fingers even through a rubber glove. Tip it back and forth wait a till it stops dripping and I still only 1L will bring it to the gallery line.

I just assume the .1 is lining the entire engine and maybe trapped in some of the corners and crevices etc.
 

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Getting the engine hot helps get most of the crap floating in the oil. Sludge, or whatever you choose to call it, will be more likely to come out with the oil. An engine technician at a John Deere dealer once told me "If you change to oil cold, don't bother to change it". That has always stuck in my brain.
 

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Gang,
Well, once I got my recently purchased, 2007, 582 mile (on the clock) TW running, I immediately changed the oil. Now, the manual says 1.1 quart with the filter change. Who, in their right mind, would change oil WITHOUT changing the filter? I mean, this little motor works its guts out to power us around so, why not do a COMPLETE oil change? Anyway, as stated, the manual states 1.1 quarts. Well, I put in one quart and, stood the bike up to as much of a straight up vertical position as I could and, that little window was almost completely covered in BRAND NEW OIL. I started the bike and ran it for about 5 or so minutes. Then, let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and stood it up vertical again and, the oil level was again, in the same spot and almost covered the glass completely. I did not install the other .1 of a quart. So, the question is, do you boys buy two quarts and use just a tiny amount of the second one and, do that at each oil change 'till the second quart is used up? Or, do you just put in one quart and be done with it?
Scott
It's 1.1lt not quarts ... if you're doing 1.1quarts that will be a bit too much oil. That may have been mentioned below, but I haven't gotten through the entire thread yet...
 

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See attached for service manual reference. If you did quarts, then it is NOT surprising that your oil window is completely covered. 1lt = .946 quarts.
Screen Shot 2019-07-16 at 10.55.02 AM.png
 

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Well, actually, it's a bit closer I guess if you're using US Quarts, but for imperial quarts... anywho, I just did my oil change with liters (technically I converted to OZ because my measuring cup didn't have liters ... and my base Yamalube is a large bottle). Anywho, it's right at the max fill line after starting/running, and letting sit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well gang,
I do thank you all for responding here. Although it's not the end of the world, in the link one of you posted with an owners manual section, it does say "1.16 U.S. Quart" and, it says the exact same thing in my 2007 TW200 owners manual. In my manual it states: " Without oil filter element removal, 1.00L (1.06 U.S. qt.) (.88 Imp qt.) , "With oil filter element, 1.0L (1.16 U.S. qt.) (.97 Imp. qt.).

I will just use one quart.
 

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Maybe I missed it here but after every oil change and as soon as you start the engine you must open the bleeder bolt in the head behind the spark plug to make sure oil is flowing to the head. I don't know why but on some TWs when you drop the oil the oil pump supplying the oil to the head loses prime or might form an air bubble and the bleeder bolt is there to fix this issue. Failure to observe oil flowing to the head could result in failure of the head. I am not sure if this could be why the sight glass looks over filled nor do I know how much of the oil is in the passages going to the head but I do know a few times after I changed the oil and started the engine when I cracked open the bleeder bolt I observed a goodly amount of air bubbles come out before it flowed solid oil.

The manual states the amount of oil with the filter change is 1.16 US Quarts which is 37.12 US ounces. This means you add one full quart of oil, 32 ounces plus another 5.12 ounces from the second quart. I have always found that sight glass to be a useless POS anyway and only good to tell you when you are low on oil. Just pour in 37 ounces of fresh oil, open the bleeder until it flow straight oil and no bubbles and call it good. A little over in the sight glass could simply be a matter of the bike not being level when you are looking at it.

GaryL
 

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How much oil is supposed to flow out that hole? I changed my oil last week and cracked the bolt open and took a full 2 minutes to see it get 'wet'. I unscrewed several threads and oil very slowly oozed out. I let it do that for about 15 seconds, then closed it back up. Does that sound about right?
 

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How much oil is supposed to flow out that hole? I changed my oil last week and cracked the bolt open and took a full 2 minutes to see it get 'wet'. I unscrewed several threads and oil very slowly oozed out. I let it do that for about 15 seconds, then closed it back up. Does that sound about right?
You probably had an air block which is why it took so long to start flowing out and good thing you did it. With my engine running I just crack the bolt open about one full turn and what I usually see is some air bubbles before the oil oozes with no more bubbles. Less than a quarter ounce is all I ever lose when I do this.

GaryL
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong...

1000 cc's capacity which is stamped on the engine = 1.05669 quarts = 33.81408 ounces.
Maybe I missed it here but after every oil change and as soon as you start the engine you must open the bleeder bolt in the head behind the spark plug to make sure oil is flowing to the head. I don't know why but on some TWs when you drop the oil the oil pump supplying the oil to the head loses prime or might form an air bubble and the bleeder bolt is there to fix this issue. Failure to observe oil flowing to the head could result in failure of the head. I am not sure if this could be why the sight glass looks over filled nor do I know how much of the oil is in the passages going to the head but I do know a few times after I changed the oil and started the engine when I cracked open the bleeder bolt I observed a goodly amount of air bubbles come out before it flowed solid oil.

The manual states the amount of oil with the filter change is 1.16 US Quarts which is 37.12 US ounces. This means you add one full quart of oil, 32 ounces plus another 5.12 ounces from the second quart. I have always found that sight glass to be a useless POS anyway and only good to tell you when you are low on oil. Just pour in 37 ounces of fresh oil, open the bleeder until it flow straight oil and no bubbles and call it good. A little over in the sight glass could simply be a matter of the bike not being level when you are looking at it.

GaryL
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong...

1000 cc's capacity which is stamped on the engine = 1.05669 quarts = 33.81408 ounces.
Not wrong Tommy, That is the capacity without the filter change. I am going by the manual which says 1.16 US Quarts and that comes out to the 37.12 ounces with the filter change.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Not wrong Tommy, That is the capacity without the filter change. I am going by the manual which says 1.16 US Quarts and that comes out to the 37.12 ounces with the filter change.

GaryL
This is why I asked the original question, to find out if many, most, or no one actually adds the .1 qt in an oil change. I thank all of you for responding here.
Scott
 

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Just did mine yesterday, new to me 2018 with 285 miles. Cleaned both filters then dumped in one sealed quart of Yamalube 10W-40 and after running for a few minutes and sitting a few minutes is was exactly on the upper line of the sightglass.
 

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Exactly where it is supposed to be! Why do so many people have to beat this to death? In the US, put in one quart....in the EU, put in one liter.....period.....end of story. :p
 
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