I went to install a 12V "lighter outlet" today, but after a while I just gave up. First of all, I have little to no room in the "dashboard" area.
My next thought was to install one of these things, under the right-hand cover instead:
I would do this by connecting it directly to the battery terminal. Then I noticed that once I've installed it...I can't get the insulating-cover back over the POSITIVE terminal. So I brought the wire in under the frame-rail by the battery, but it is such a tight fit, that I am worried about the chafing and eventual fire that will result.
Furthermore...I definitely want to protect this with a fuse of some sort, but the space is so limited that I'm not sure I'll have enough real-estate...am I over-thinking this?
What have others done?
I am "electrically capable" as I've been in the Trade for almost 40 years....but it's the logistics that have me baffled.
I have both styles installed on my bike. One is the power outlet socket that is velcro'd to the indicator light box, and the other is a two wire pigtail routed under the right side cover. Both are wired directly to the battery, and neither are fused (I just never got around to doing that).
You are right about about space being tight around the battery, but there is not much flexing of the wiring in that area.
I have both styles installed on my bike. One is the power outlet socket that is velcro'd to the indicator light box, and the other is a two wire pigtail routed under the right side cover. Both are wired directly to the battery, and neither are fused (I just never got around to doing that).
You are right about about space being tight around the battery, but there is not much flexing of the wiring in that area.
Great idea on the power outlet location and mounting method with velcro. My pigtail connector is in the same location on mine. You just have to make the rubber cover on the positive cable work with a little maneuvering or it will rip a little but it goes over ok.
I did similar to TW-Brian... I hooked the 12v outlet to the inside of the headlight cowl with small bolts (in TW-Brians photo about where the paperclip is) and then an SAE pigtail under the right side cover. both are fused and managed to tuck the fuses in around the battery.
I am using a pigtail made for electric trolling motors, so it is fairly large gauge...probably #10. That is why there is no room alongside the battery!
...and HOW are you able to connect to the battery, while keeping the insulating boot (on the positive terminal) functional, with extra wires under there? My battery has the posts facing outwards...should they be on top, maybe?
I am using a pigtail made for electric trolling motors, so it is fairly large gauge...probably #10. That is why there is no room alongside the battery!
Now I understand your problem. I just use the socket for a phone or GPS, and the pigtail for connecting a battery tender. I am not planning on doing any arc welding !
I used crimp-on eye wire ends at the battery and just split and work around the + insulation boot. there isn't much floating around under the seat that will short the battery. usually the 12v socket isn't powered so heavy to need #10 wire, generally only powering a GPS or cell phone. SAE under the side likely only needs #12 - #14 wire to run a small air pump or charge the battery without removing the seat. Aside from the starter there likely isn't any #10 anywhere on the bike
I would be using the 12V outlet for a mini-compressor...hence the larger gauge wire, but in retrospect I could probably go with a #14 since the compressor wouldn't be drawing 30 amps. I would also cover the cable with a corrugated loom where it travels along the frame and this begs another question; Do you bring the ground (-) with it, or do you find a grounding spot somewhere near the front?
I also thought about using an auto-reset circuit breaker instead of a fuse....
i zap strapped an SAE plug to my light box and ran the wires back to the battery using 16 gauge wire. fused at the battery. i changed the plug on my air compressor to a SAE and i can leave a charger on the same plug as well. i really don't think you need a 10 ga wire for a small compressor, it runs fine on the 16 ga and most likely would be ok on a 18 ga wire. look at the wire size that comes with it. i think all you are doing is making it hard on yourself when trying to work with 10 ga as it is too big to stuff in small places
Yes, I think I'll go down a size or two on the wire...
That dashboard of yours....still intrigues me. No matter how I tried, it was always blocking access to the key switch...again, I must be doing something wrong.
I've decided to go with something like THISinstead.
I don't seem to have enough room to mount the outlet I have, under the fairing...so I will just bring the SAE connector out there somewhere, or maybe I'll just keep it near the seat area so I don't have to worry about wire-looms.
Fortunately, I have an SAE connector with a 12V outlet, so I can just carry that along as well....or I can change the plug-end of my compressor to SAE...it can also serve as a input for jump-starting or charging.
I'm still going to install a 15A circuit breaker in there....
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