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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the process of getting my bike started up again and ride to the mechanic shop. I explained to the mechanic that the screw heads do not fit Philips screwdrivers. I also bought M4 x 16 mm and 4 mm lockwashers to replace the screws with after he's done cleaning the carb out. Can anyone give me advice to tell the mechanic how to get the stock screws out easily as possible?
 

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I'd say if he HAD to be told about the screws, he has no business inside your carburetor.
I would say you are 150% right. My auto mechanic has a sign over his station,
Labor rate $75/hour, $150/hour if you want to direct!

GaryL
 

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I easily got the float bowl screws out with a standard Philips - they are not that tight really = a steady pressure so the flanges to not ride up and out they come.
 

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You should have two sizes of them in your cheesy stock tool kit. They ain't the best but at least they're JIS and less likely to booger things up.
 

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lets just say, I'm old school. If I can't get it with a little finesse, I get a bigger hammer. I always buy Crap'sman tools for their lifetime warranty. As they are now pretty much junk tools, like everyone else is selling, I don't feel guilty about ruining a tool or two, to get a job done.
in order to get the screws out of my carb, I simply filed the tip off a standard Phillips. Took my time and only did enough to get a good fit before I actually tried to loosen them. Came right out.
having been in the carb a total of 4 times now, I will admit the screws are just about done. Will replace this winter with some quality hardware. But hopefully this tip will help others. TIM
 

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As I said before, I just use a phillips. When the bolts are about done I use a dremel and turn them into flatheads. Sometimes I replace them with hex heads but I'm lazy when it comes to that stuff. Plus I have alot of screw drivers all shapes and sizes, not so much on the alan/hex keys.
 

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1/2" Hand Impact Driver, Screw Extractors & Nail Pullers, Deck, Construction & Demo Tools, Tools - McFeely's


Here this is saner


http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=LIS30000&source=froogle&kw=LIS30000



Example should be found somewhere at HF for like $10

You cock it in the lefty remove direction
Put a small amount of removing torque mostly to take up the slack

Then you tap it with a hammer

At that moment the tap unloads the threads and a cam action turns breaking free the screw.

Back in the day of jap bikes using ""phillips"" everyone had one
 

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To the OP (are you still there?), if that's not enough advice for your mechanic:D, let me offer another tip.

If the screw is particularly tight, or if the screw recesses are worn or stripped to the point it's difficult to keep the screwdriver in the screw apply some valve grinding compound to the tip of the screwdriver. This will add some "grippiness" that often makes the difference between getting the screw out or not. Taught to me by an experienced aircraft mechanic, and it really works!
 

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I guess I missed the memo here on the newer carbs. Mine has hex head screws holding the bowl. I never knew the name of JIS fasteners but I did buy a cheap kit containing 108 different driver heads from MCM Electronics and it has about every security type driver bit I will ever need. It even contains the drivers that are hex but have that pesky post in the center preventing an Allen from going in. It was the best $18 I ever spent. I have yet to come across a fastener I didn't have the bit for in this kit.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Dang it. I dropped my bike off at the shop and the mechanic says he'll take a look on Monday. I tried the Philips but no grounding compound and the head of the stock screw was getting damaged. And the screw was in there so tight. Better to take the bike back? Problem is i don't even think my bike's engine will turn on if I go back there before the mechanic fixes it
 

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I ALMOST gave up on the (early) TW carb. I'm more of a Mikuni guy. I ALMOST took it in to a local shop.
Problem with that approach, is that some day, somewhere, likely far away from anywhere, according to Murphy, you're going to have to know how it works, and how to fix it.
Stick with it, we're here to help.
 

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He'll be able to use a Phillips just fine. It wears out the head, but as someone else said, when it gets bad enough you just dremel it into a flathead. Alternately you can run over to Fastenall or Home Depot and get some replacements before it becomes an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got my bike back from the shop yesterday. Had the carb cleaned twice and the valves adjusted. I figure the carb cleaning was my fault as I was experimenting using premium vs reg unleaded fuel and not using fuel cleaner much. Bike runs like a champ now and I intend to stick to reg unleaded and fuel cleaner. Payed ~$200 for the 2 hr labor
 
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