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Discussion Starter #1
I know there are a lot of variables to answer this question...



but the other day I took out my new (to me) tw to do a nice jeep trail up in the colorado mountains....This is a trail my stock jeep had no problem climbing, even in 4x4 high....8000' msl



Anyways I got to a slightly steeper section and the bike wouldn't climb it....stalled out, totally surprised....I went back down and had a run at it and again it stalled....full throttle and 1st gear....I was disappointed...tank was full....I thought these bikes were torque'y trail monsters....am I missing something here?



Anyone else experience this? I'm 150 lbs, and was running a 47th rear sprocket (i know this would reduce my torque, but not to the point where the bike wouldn't climb up a moderate slope....)



Maybe include some pictures of nasty trails you have climbed? Any suggestions? I could throw the 50th back on, or my 54th....but I do a lot of highway driving to get to the trails....
 

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I would suspect that you are not jetted properly for that altitude. If you are too rich that could easily explain it. Mine runs fine and never stalls at that altitude and I'm running 15/47. I reported on that a couple of months ago.



There is a lot of info on carb jetting here.
 

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I run 15/47 sprockets with stock tires and stock jetting and have climbed some pretty steep trails. Traction was more my concern than power....I have ridden some trails (not steep) at 8,000 feet and can't definity feel the power being way down so I think phantom99 is right that you need to lean out your carb for that altitude.
 

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I run 15/47 sprockets with stock tires and stock jetting and have climbed some pretty steep trails. Traction was more my concern than power....I have ridden some trails (not steep) at 8,000 feet and can't definity feel the power being way down so I think phantom99 is right that you need to lean out your carb for that altitude.


Yep I'll bet it is the jetting. I did some hill climbs in Ohio that guys on a 450 Honda and a WR250 were having a helluva time with. I'll bet they were embarrassed an ugly old TW200 climbed right up it.
 

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Sounds like jetting. Hill climbing is the thing i feel like the tw is very good at. As long as the traction is there the tw never lets me down. I have stock gearing and there is a trail near the house that goes to a fishing pond near town that is fun. I need 1st gear and i slide forward on the seat a bit and it climbs right up it. Im at around 1000 asl in iowa.
 

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might want to do a compression check also. my TW ran good at 6-8K' with stock jetting. you didn't mention the the year or the mileage on the bike. valves been adjusted lately? ever? woof
 

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Discussion Starter #7
'98 with 2300 miles...all stock and never adjusted I reckon...Should I have the valves adjusted? All the reading about jetting has me slightly confused...any advice? Shim the needle? or a lower number like 125 for altitude? Seems like folks replace the stock screws with nicer ones...Thanks
 

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My wife and I have stock 06 dubs.... Three weeks ago we were riding in tenn. up to 5,000' with no problems... Not even a hiccup.. We found out how great they take curves too.. Tail of the dragon was a riot on our dubs.OMM.
 

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'98 with 2300 miles...all stock and never adjusted I reckon...Should I have the valves adjusted? All the reading about jetting has me slightly confused...any advice? Shim the needle? or a lower number like 125 for altitude? Seems like folks replace the stock screws with nicer ones...Thanks




NONE of the above, 'cept the valve adjustment.. Clean your air filter while yer at it. That alone could contribute heavily to what you're experiencing.



Your '98 has the old-style slide carb. It should have a 114 main jet and if the bike was originally sold in your area it may have a 112 "high altitude" jet that was dealer-installed when new. The numeric jet requirements for your carb don't relate with the much larger numbers used on the later carbs.



If a P.O. got on this forum and monkeyed with it the carb could have almost any jetting. You'll need to take it apart and check the main sizes. One tipoff to the P.O. messing with it can be the removal of the soft plug over the mixture screw. If someone's messed with the jetting they'll usually mess with the idle mixture, as well.



Ignore most of what you've read about carbs on here because for the most part it has nothing to do with your carb OR your location, and very few posters distinguish which carb they're referring to. If you install a 125 jet and open the mixture 2.5 turns as is typically recomended in many of the carb threads you probably won't get out of your driveway.



I live at 4,000 feet and run the old-style carb. The mean average in most of Colorado is considerably higher. I have to compromise with jetting because within an hour's ride from home I can either be at sea level or 10,000 feet. I run a 116 to prevent going overly lean at sea level and that covers me until about 8,000 feet. After that I have to tolerate a bit of diminished horsepower, but not to the extent you've described. It would run a lot better with a 114 up there but the point others have made is that there ain't much a TW won't crawl over in first gear even at 10,000 feet if it's running right.



I guess what it comes down to is that if your jetting hasn't been changed your bike just isn't running right. First check the jetting and make sure someone hasn't increased it. Give the carb a full cleaning and set the mixture back to stock if it has been changed, leave it be for now if it hasn't and remove any shims which may have been installed by the P.O. Most of the advice offered here is directed toward gaining max performance at more reasonable elevations where the air isn't so thin.
 

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My 98 made it over imogene pass "over 13,000 feet" and all the other passes in the ouray, silverton, telluride area with the stock 114 jet. I am 150lbs and was running 14/47. Mine didnt run that well over 9,000ish feet but she made it while sputtering a bit. Looking forward to taking the 07 out there and seeing how the newer carb does at altitiude.
 

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I agree, something is not right with the carb. I've ran 47 tooth sprocket and it does make steep stuff worse. So I stick with the 50 tooth for what I do.

As for elevation, I ride anywhere from 0' to 5500' elevaion and climb stuff so steep that the front tire won't stay down (not to mention intentional wheelies)...

You should be fine once you find the issue. I'm no carb expert so I don't have much input. Good luck! And I'll include a few pics, since you asked!




"Launch Pad" hill climb in Moab Utah:







Here's my buddy Mike Hagen going up it in his 'Battle Bird' Suzuki, for a steepness reference:







She runs fine going DOWN insanely steep trails too:







In this pic of the Oregon coast range, my bike is leaning against the hill, almost standing up straight (perpendicular to level ground). It looks like its laying on its side, but its really not. It did bog out on me here, but I found one of the carb vent tubes (down by the swing arm) was recently plugged with mud/debris. I unplugged it and it fixed the bogging on hills. This might be worth checking on your bike!



 

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darnold87 -- In the picture with the TW on it's side were you going up or down when this happened? Do you ride in the rut or try to ride to one side of it.?



I have taken pictures on steep hills only to look at them later and see they look flat. Yours were fun pictures to look at. Thanks.
 

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Tony - I was going up... And in the rut, pegs barely clearing. It bogged down about the same time my cousin lost it on his drz. I leaned my bike against the hill to run down and help avoid a disaster. Getting the bikes turned around was fun.


And yeah, Moab is amazing. We are trying to get a trip planned for next year...
 

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Tony - I was going up... And in the rut, pegs barely clearing. It bogged down about the same time my cousin lost it on his drz. I leaned my bike against the hill to run down and help avoid a disaster. Getting the bikes turned around was fun.


And yeah, Moab is amazing. We are trying to get a trip planned for next year...


Davey! I want to go riding with you!!!!
 

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Great advice from Lizrdbrth. I would just like to add that a lot of people feel that stock gearing is the best compromise between on and off road performance.
 

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You should adjust the valves yourself..... it's fairly easy. I'm sure there's a thread on it here with pics. remember.... tappy valves are happy valves, if you can't hear em, they're too tight
 

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Have TW, will climb. I'm doing a 47T/52T dual sprocket setup myself this week, only thing I've found the TW don't like on hills is taking off while already on them.
 
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