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Hey there ladies and gents, I’m about to jump into some serious work on my bike I have some questions about some basic mechanical stuff and parts, let me know what you think!



Below are some links as well as some quotes from those threads.





Air Filter:

Should I go with a K&N or UNI?



http://tw200forum.com/forums/96690/ShowPost.aspx

Uni Filter dual stage pod filter ~ UP4182ST

Uni Filter crank breather ~ UP103



http://tw200forum.com/forums/1/72456/ShowPost.aspx#72456

"Crank Breather 62-2480

Air Filter RC-1890 with stock rubber hose used as extension

You need to get a 16mm crankcase breather. Can get them from any car/bike shop or about $10 on ebay. Crank Breather 62-2480. Air Filter RC-1890 with stock rubber hose used as extension "

http://www.knfilters.com/search/wrap.aspx



Jets

I have a FMF exhaust, I also wanted to the air filter above, what jets should I buy now so the mechanic will have a choice? I am a complete noob, is a shim another part? 130 seems to be the size everyone said they got.



Here is a line about removing the gas tank:

http://tw200forum.com/forums/66264/ShowPost.aspx

“Piece of cake. All you need is a 10mm socket. Remove seat by removing two bolts under it, cut of gas from tank, remove gas hose from tank petcock, remove bolt from base of tank and slide tank backwards....... done.

Good luck!! Willy.”



“When you have if off the frame put some rubber spray ( ArmorAll, PB Blaster) type stuff on the rubber pucks & bushing before you put it back together. Stopped a squeek I had.

BillMichaels “



Removing tank paint:

aircraft stripper

http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=82&prodid=136



Then Scotch Brite and WD40.



Clean the tank after the paint is taken off:

What should I do to clean the tank before putting it back on and adding gas?



How to protect a metal tank?

What should I use to to protect the tank?



I found this:

http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/



Or spraymax 2k

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043B7UQY/





Battery



crazy expensive battery $115

http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/245-battery/page__hl__battery__st__60

http://www.shoraipower.com/s-226907-TW200.aspx



another gel battery $62

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-custom-motorcycle-electronics-parts-medium-12v-sealed-trugel-battery-78-0542.html



Stainless Bolts

Anyone have luck with

http://www.stainlesscycle.com/catalog/index.php

or

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Bolt-Set--Yamaha-TW200-0306--Stainless-Steel-Set-879-2498.aspx



Let me know what you think about these subjects. And where would you buy this stuff?
 

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...

Air Filter:

Should I go with a K&N or UNI?



...



Jets

I have a FMF exhaust, I also wanted to the air filter above, what jets should I buy now so the mechanic will have a choice? I am a complete noob, is a shim another part? 130 seems to be the size everyone said they got.



...



Battery



crazy expensive battery $115

http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/245-battery/page__hl__battery__st__60

http://www.shoraipower.com/s-226907-TW200.aspx



another gel battery $62

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-custom-motorcycle-electronics-parts-medium-12v-sealed-trugel-battery-78-0542.html



Stainless Bolts

Anyone have luck with

http://www.stainlesscycle.com/catalog/index.php

or

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Bolt-Set--Yamaha-TW200-0306--Stainless-Steel-Set-879-2498.aspx



...


I had a UNI filter. I liked it over the K&N because it was easier to clean and oil, and I preferred the sticky PJ1 oil on UNI's foam over the K&N's gauze with oil sprayed on it. This is a good video showing the process of cleaning and re-oiling a foam filter (he uses ALOT of filter oil, I always used PJ1 because it's super sticky and tacky and never used nearly that much http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/197/12506/ITEM/PJ1-Liquid-Foam-Filter-Oil.aspx):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-ETKomHST4





I had a 130 jet for a UNI filter and stock exhaust with the spark arrestor removed (I never left roadways with my bike). The 130 is the go-to for many people. Jets are pretty cheap with respect to the amount of work you are planning on doing, get a few...127.5, 130, 132.5. Shouldn't need more than a 132.5. The shim is a separate part, but not a yamaha part...depending how well stocked your local hardware store is you may find a tiny washer that meets the needs, but the size needs to be 0.125" (1/8") inside diameter to slip over the needle. Best bet is to buy (5) 0.010" thickness shims and add/remove shims as necessary, as opposed to buying a single shim. Here is a good option if your hardware store doesn't have them...http://www.mcmaster.com/#99040A310





Sounds like you are wanting a bare metal tank? I can't help with that one






Batteries are all over in price, get a sealed/AGM and call it good. Can't help you with what's best, I'll let others chime in. There's some good info on the site already for a good sealed alternative, just don't remember who made it.





As far as bolts, I have no idea. I think some have had good luck with the eBay options. May want to do some searching on there for what's available.
 

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Amazon, go to Amazon.jp. You have to register a new account since its in another country click in english. Search TW200 or TW225 happy hunting. They site will assist you if you need help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That is what I love about this site, there is so much great information! Thank you guys!!!



Here is the shopping list so far, still feel free to give me your opinions (and if I have a size messed up)! And awesome info RisingSun, I am going to check that out. The vendors in Japan have great parts like fenders and seats!



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Airfilter:

Lets beat a dead horse. I like the K&N look, especially the metal versions, but I am an idiot if I don’t get the UNI? UNI seems like the beter choice for protection and ease of use.



K&N

http://www.amazon.com/RC-1890-Universal-Chrome-Filter/dp/B00062YOIQ/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1335486155&sr=1-1-catcorr

and

http://www.amazon.com/K-N-62-2480-Vent-Filters/dp/B00029WY44/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1335486326&sr=1-1



or the UNI?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IWUYIM/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&psc=1

and

Crank Breakther:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OO0XLS/



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Bolts:

There are three contenders now.
Another thread:

http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/2299-alloyboltz-stainless-engine-bolt-kit-wpictures/



Edit I am leaning to:

alloyboltz

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-TW200-XT200-POLISHED-STAINLESS-ENGINE-BOLT-KIT-/300399694541?hash=item45f13792cd&item=300399694541&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_2908wt_1391

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Shims:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3247/=ha25d2



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Battery (the link you sent had great information Point37):



http://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/LFX09L2-BS12.html



Screw it, it is silly expensive but it looks good.

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Oil:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/197/12506/ITEM/PJ1-Liquid-Foam-Filter-Oil.aspx



I am assuming this is right for UNI, not good for K&N.



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Jets:



130:

http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-288-14343-65-00.html



127.5 AHHHH there is like choices! Which one?

http://find.powersportsplus.com/?r=t&q=127.5&x=0&y=0



Same with the 132.5

http://find.powersportsplus.com/?s=1&q=132.5&x=0&y=0



No idea what to search to get the right answer.

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Paint remover:

http://www.amazon.com/GAR343-KLEAN-STRIP-Aircraft-Stripper-Gallon/dp/B004Y1KX9E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1335486085&sr=8-3



Any better ideas?

----



I like statements like "If you don't get this you are crazy"! I rather buy something good once, then feel like an idiot that I got something subpar.



Thank you again guys! I am an awful parts shopper.
 

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Big thumbs up for the Shorai battery! And have you thought about going with a lager tank? Right now you can get in on a sizeable discount thru a special deal that Lizrdbrth set up for us, Clarke Tank Group Buy From JustGasTanks, check it out here:



http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/4182-clarke-tank-group-buy-from-justgastanks/



$178.20 with shipping. Mine was $186.55 cause I’m in Californication, & gotta pay that tax! Still a great price on a great tank, but only through the end of this month. Use code TWGB to get the discount.



Modding gets quite additive, no?
m.
 

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I sent you a PM ceramite. But will post the jet info for everyone.



I bought the 135 and 138 jets for the late model TW carb at jetsrus.com. The Keihin jets are the same size as the OEM(the Keihin 135 was the next step up from the OEM 132.5) , but are slotted screw head instead of bolt head.
 

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What air filters did you run with? I'm starting to shop for my hollow mod pcs now! let me know what your choice was...
 

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I'm also working on rebuilding a TW and also with a bare metal tank.



To get the paint off you can simply polish the tank with an electrical drill with a soft/plastic polishing brush on.

It takes a small hour of course to get it all off but the result is perfect.



After the polishing we sprayed blanc spray on it. I can't say how it is going to react in rainy weather but normally it should stay in shape.



So I did not use any paint remover , only WD40 after polishing to clean the tank before spraying.



grtz ;-)



Can somebody tell me if there is a difference in using the airbox or using an airfilter ? Or is the only difference the looks needed for hollow mod.

I'm thinking about using an airfilter to get better performance but I doubt this is going to make any difference.



Thx
 

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Can somebody tell me if there is a difference in using the airbox or using an airfilter ? Or is the only difference the looks needed for hollow mod.

I'm thinking about using an airfilter to get better performance but I doubt this is going to make any difference.


no difference in performance...more looks than anything...if you bury it in water up to the filter it will be a problem...if you ride off-road more than street the airbox would be better to keep
 

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Hey Guys,



I'm gearing up to start my hollow mod process but i had a few questions.



1. when you scale down your batter does that stop you from using the push start? Will i have to kickstart every time?



2. is there a standard size tray people use for under their seat? I notice many people build their own, i'm just wondering if there is a template i can follow. (I don't have a garage to do my own work so i'm not able to take my bike apart to measure)





Nerk.
 

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First off, if you do intake and exhaust mods, then expect someone to accurately predict exactly what jetting your carb will require, better to have a really fat wallet and find your way to Orange County Choppers or the like and let them do it. Npthing wrong with that, but ... .



Another option is to commit to educating yourself in the fine art of motorcycle customization and do it yourself. That is the source of true satisfaction. People look at what you buy and maybe get an idea. People look at what you build with respect. The owner of the half-built rat garners more respect from viewers (other than other buyers, of course) than the maxed out shop-built piece of butt jewelry. Fast friendships are made when the same folks stop by bike night after bike night to check on the latest mods. Yes, you'll make mistakes, ruin the occasional part, suffer failures on the road, etc., but that's the price one pays. With the right attitude, such events become adventures instead of aggravations.



My first "custom" was a SL100 that survived 4 to-the-frame teardowns over 6 years, and saw life as a dualsport, a dirt tracker racer, a cafe racer, a chopper, and a commuter before she was stolen. Her license plate was NVRDUN, and her big sister was a XL250 plated SHASTA, short for She Has To Have A ..., who was my daily rider through high school, then saw competition on flattracks, enduros, motocross, and desert while I went throught the heavy cruiser and tourer stages, before her final reincarnation before theft as a small displacement tourer. I think the only original parts left when she was a tourer were the engine cases, trans shafts, clutch basket, and primary drive. My current street ride is a concourse restoration CB550K2 with period correct accessories. Like her cousins before, she draws bigger crowds and more positive comments than most anything out of any shop. That's from where satisfaction comes.



p/s.: I do go to custom shows wearing a t-shirt that says



IT'S WHAT YOU BUILD

NOT WHAT YOU BUY
 

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Hey Guys,



I'm gearing up to start my hollow mod process but i had a few questions.



1. when you scale down your batter does that stop you from using the push start? Will i have to kickstart every time?



2. is there a standard size tray people use for under their seat? I notice many people build their own, i'm just wondering if there is a template i can follow. (I don't have a garage to do my own work so i'm not able to take my bike apart to measure)





Nerk.


1. just get a battery with enough cranky power that is smaller and maybe you might have to be able to have it on its side and still work. Usually gel are smaller.



2. The tray size is depending on the battery size. That is it.



It doesn't cost alot to do just some people don't want to spend money on certain things. I hate the word "hollow Mod" its called Naked.



All you need is a tray,battery,jets,k&n filter. Tray is what $20? Just go modify a box or bend up some metal. Battery $20 and up depending on which battery you want. Jets $10 and up. K&N filter $30. How expensive is that? The bars,lights,muffler are optional.
 

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The smallest and lightest practical battery technology available today is Lithium Iron Phosphate. Shorai makes several small batteries that will work. If you chose to dump the electric start you can get by with a homemade battery bank of 4, $4 each, 1.5ah LiFePO4 cylindrical cells, stacked in series in a 10-inch PVC pipe with screw-on ends fitted with spring-loaded terminals (think flashlight end cap) and held to the seat base with pipe supports and pop rivets. With a little thought you can have the entire system up and running for under $20. 4 such battery packs wired in parallel would suffice to power the electric start feature, and still be completely concealed under the seat pan, completely maintenance free and with a 5-year+ life expectancy.



There's a CB750 naked around here with drag bars, with LiFePO4 cells hidden in the handlebars. The wires lead down through holes drilled in the bars under the clamps. Very nicely done, very clean installation.



Study pictures on the internet and decide what you want. Then seek how to build it. There are no limits.
 

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