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Discussion Starter #1
The manual suggests way more cleaning then seems needed for me and I was wondering how often and how dirty your filters get? What does it take to get them dirty? I'm imagining the rally in the desert in Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas.

After one season of riding only dirt roads...occasionally dusty behind other bikes but I lagged behind to avoid being choked up, I check my filter and was surprised to see very little if any dirt. It had a faded corner that was lightly dirty so I cleaned just because I had it apart. I checked it again the following season and saw nothing new so I haven't change it since. I'm 3 years in and have only cleaned it once. I probably could have left it alone and had no problem with it. I might open it up soon just to get a fresh start for the season. I can't help but wonder if part of the suggested routine is to sell more Yama-products.
 

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In Nova Scotia you can probably get away with that....not out here in the west. Here the recommended interval is totally inadequate...I have to clean mine every 500 miles. You really can't tell much by looking unless your filter is really dirty. Wash it in Kerosene in a shallow pan and see what comes out. I would guess every 2,000 miles would work OK for you. The manual recommendation of every 3,000 is only for all pavement riding in clean environments like Japan or Western Oregon. :)
 

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I actually wish it was a paper filter as I think they catch finer particles especially for anything meant to run off road. I have bought vehicles with a K&N air filter an just threw them in the garbage. 1940s technology.
 

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I clean mine every few rides in the summer, but spring and fall it could go a long way. Depends on how many bikes your ride with too and where is the pack.
 

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Id say your safe on every year to check in your location or 1 1-2 year. Location is what will dictate your schedule for cleaning. Having a second filter cleaned and lightly oiled in a ziplock ready to go is a good idea also.
 

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And the oil is what catches the dirt. Without it, a lot of nasty little dirt particles could get through it... Not that oil 'evaporates', but it would dry out over time. For the price of some oil and some kerosene or varsol I'd recommend cleaning it, just to know that it's oiled properly...but then again, I lay awake at night worrying about stuff like that.
 

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I wash mine after all groups rides if I'm not leading - out here in the summer....day becomes night with so much dust in the air! I do tend to over oil my UNI filter - trying to cut back on that.
 

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I would say anytime you are inspecting it, you might as well clean and oil it...
I guess you don't always need to wash it so much as freshen up the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sure...my point was more that the oil needs to be fresh to work effectively. So for that reason alone it's a good idea to clean and oil it even if it's looks clean.
 

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....So for that reason alone it's a good idea to clean and oil it even if it's looks clean.
Re my previous post: The only way to determine how dirty your air filter is is to rinse it into a pan and look at the dirt. If there is only a barely detectable amount then you can lengthen the interval. The oil does not need to be fresh to achieve good trapping of particles....(within reason)....5 year old oil in the filter probably wouldn't do much good because it has dried out......two year old oil, no problem.

If you want to be certain that your filter continues to perform really well, try NoToil oil and cleaner. Not only is it much easier to clean in the sink, the oil is extremely sticky and does not dry out half as fast as regular 30 wt. One kit will last in your environment 10 years easy....mine lasted 5 years with the super dusty conditions here.....great stuff
 

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Kerosene is fine if you want to use regular oil. IMHO No-Toil is far superior to regular 30 wt. oil as explained above, and since a single kit lasts so long, it isn't really all that expensive. If you are not riding in dusty environments, the advantage is not as great.
 

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Two cents of detergent and plenty of really hot water over a catch basin works just fine in my experience. Basin, as Rocky suggests, collects and allows settling and inspection of the sediment quantity liberated from the filter.
 
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