I do not think you could possibly remove all the Dragons Blood from the Tank/System. Even though the Seafoam liquifies it, once parked for a few weeks, carb ran dry, and although a small amount, the residual Dragons Blood again solidifies a nice cylindrical lining inside the already teeny tiny, itsy bitsy pilot hole. Probably making the #34 a #28 or smaller. I would be curious if you soaked the dirty pilot in a couple ounces of straight Seafoam (which is basically a strong penetrating fluid as it will free up frozen, rusted shut, electrician pliers) and then blow the jet clean, reinstall, if it would run like normal again.I kinda think Seafoam is what got me into trouble in the first place. I had coated the inside of the tank with a product called Dragon's Blood. It seals the metal from rusting. I've used it on several other bikes with good success. However, on this bike I knew I wasn't going to be riding it for a few months over winter and added some Seafoam. Next spring the problem started. I drained the tank and the gas was red. The Seafoam had dissolved the Dragons Blood coating! I didn't actually think this would clog a jet since it dissolved the coating and only stained the gas, not the inside of the carb or anything, but I finished the job of removing any residual Dragons Blood from the tank and moved on. Nope. Still have the problem.
I'll continue to use Seafoam of course, but so far, It's not improved the situation.
To verify that the problem is with the pilot jet, after replacing the bike runs fine. I open the carb and put the old one back, problem returns. Put the new one in again and problem goes away.When you say that replacing the pilot jet solves the problem...are you certain that the jet is clogged? Can you actually see debris in it? Does clearing it solve the problem (until the next time)?
What I'm getting at is that maybe it's the act of opening up the carb each time, that clears whatever the problem is....
Another issue might be that "Dragon's Blood" stuff....if it's a tank coating and it gets dissolved by Seafoam...then there are probably thousands more little fragments, just waiting to flake/peel off and clog your carb. Or maybe it stays in suspension in the gas, until you run the bowl dry, whereon it deposits when the gas evaporates.
If you can get your hands on one, maybe try a new tank for a few days and see if the problem goes away....?
Are your carb vent hoses clear?
I agree! I think you hit the nail on the head. Exactly what I was thinking this morning after re-reading everything here. I think I'll pull this jet and let it soak in Seafoam a day or two and try it again. I have a few weeks before the replacment jets show up.I do not think you could possibly remove all the Dragons Blood from the Tank/System. Even though the Seafoam liquifies it, once parked for a few weeks, carb ran dry, and although a small amount, the residual Dragons Blood again solidifies a nice cylindrical lining inside the already teeny tiny, itsy bitsy pilot hole. Probably making the #34 a #28 or smaller. I would be curious if you soaked the dirty pilot in a couple ounces of straight Seafoam (which is basically a strong penetrating fluid as it will free up frozen, rusted shut, electrician pliers) and then blow the jet clean, reinstall, if it would run like normal again.
Also, Dragons Blood claims to be ethanol resistant, not ethanol proof. So, between ethanol and Seafoam . . . . . . !
Somehow I skipped/missed this post. I appreciate your offer! I'll send my address right away. I've been happy with a 34 pilot, so a 36 shouldn't do anything bad other than burn more fuel and reduce range a tinge.
Do you have a link for those reamers?Here is the reamer I was talking about ( and a used #38 pilot jet).
View attachment 206987
Here it is inside the jet. There is a ledge inside so you have to play around until if falls in the hole. The reamer is tapered so it won't go in all the way. This is the max it would go in on a #38 jet. These will remove brass so being very gentle is key.
View attachment 206988
Sixty seven dollars later..."Do you have a link for those reamers?"
Search ebay for "endodontic files". Get size #10 or #15.
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for K Files DENTAL ENDODONTIC FILE with endo stopper (all sizes and lengths) at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
Thanks for the suggestion on guitar strings. I'll have to give it a try at least. I have 5 or 6 guitars as well as a banjo, uke, even a fiddle laying around here somewhere. ;-)For "cleaning/clearing" jets...I use guitar strings.
An E and a B string (bottom two) should fit through any orifice. Have you cleaned the passages as well?
If the jet works AFTER it has been soaked in Seafoam (or cleaned with a guitar string) but the problem recurs a day or so later....this more or less confirms that something dissolved or being carried in the fuel is what's causing the problem.
There is a (relatively simple) procedure (check YouTube) for separating the ethanol from fuel...maybe give that a try as well...that stuff is evil!
Thanks troll! I don't know about stamina, but before I retired, my boss referred to me as 'the pit bull'. I would latch onto a problem and not let it go until I figured it out. While the initial problem is a real ball buster, the process of solving the problem is rather interesting to me. (Once the initial frustration that I'm NOT going to ride that day) Ha!man ski pro 3, this has got to be frustrating. you have incredible stamina. hope the seafoam soak of the jet and the original tank can get your bike back to running like it should.
This is awesome! Thanks! It's not often I'm introduced to something I've been totally unexposed to and these files/reamers are just that. On Amazon they are $8. Not sure if that's for one, 6 or 12, but probably 6;"Do you have a link for those reamers?"
Search ebay for "endodontic files". Get size #10 or #15.
Chevron is my go-to fuel as well. I like the Techron component. Keeps my engines clean!I have used a strand off of a wire brush to poke through pilot jets to clean them then use carb cleaner and compressed air. Remember to use safety glasses do not want it in your eyes for sure. The tank if you have access to a hot pressure washer you can wash the tank out, we would remove the petcock and just wash tanks out to remove rust and grime. I generally have just ran Chevron gas and don't usually have much trouble with them plugging up from sitting except for a xr 50 when it sat to long