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I have a brand new # 36 pilot jet you can have. Just PM me your address and I will try to get it in today's or tomorrow's mail.
As for being overly rich idle circuit, just close the idle mixture screw and 1/2 or 1 turn.
P1140069.JPG
 

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I kinda think Seafoam is what got me into trouble in the first place. I had coated the inside of the tank with a product called Dragon's Blood. It seals the metal from rusting. I've used it on several other bikes with good success. However, on this bike I knew I wasn't going to be riding it for a few months over winter and added some Seafoam. Next spring the problem started. I drained the tank and the gas was red. The Seafoam had dissolved the Dragons Blood coating! I didn't actually think this would clog a jet since it dissolved the coating and only stained the gas, not the inside of the carb or anything, but I finished the job of removing any residual Dragons Blood from the tank and moved on. Nope. Still have the problem.
I'll continue to use Seafoam of course, but so far, It's not improved the situation.
I do not think you could possibly remove all the Dragons Blood from the Tank/System. Even though the Seafoam liquifies it, once parked for a few weeks, carb ran dry, and although a small amount, the residual Dragons Blood again solidifies a nice cylindrical lining inside the already teeny tiny, itsy bitsy pilot hole. Probably making the #34 a #28 or smaller. I would be curious if you soaked the dirty pilot in a couple ounces of straight Seafoam (which is basically a strong penetrating fluid as it will free up frozen, rusted shut, electrician pliers) and then blow the jet clean, reinstall, if it would run like normal again.

Also, Dragons Blood claims to be ethanol resistant, not ethanol proof. So, between ethanol and Seafoam . . . . . . !

Marty
 

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Hopefully Tony's #36 will work for a spell as it tuns into possibly a 34 ? ?


Marty
 
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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
When you say that replacing the pilot jet solves the problem...are you certain that the jet is clogged? Can you actually see debris in it? Does clearing it solve the problem (until the next time)?
What I'm getting at is that maybe it's the act of opening up the carb each time, that clears whatever the problem is....

Another issue might be that "Dragon's Blood" stuff....if it's a tank coating and it gets dissolved by Seafoam...then there are probably thousands more little fragments, just waiting to flake/peel off and clog your carb. Or maybe it stays in suspension in the gas, until you run the bowl dry, whereon it deposits when the gas evaporates.

If you can get your hands on one, maybe try a new tank for a few days and see if the problem goes away....?
Are your carb vent hoses clear?
To verify that the problem is with the pilot jet, after replacing the bike runs fine. I open the carb and put the old one back, problem returns. Put the new one in again and problem goes away.
I look down the center of the pilot with a bright light from the far side and can see light is making it's way through the jet. Not the side holes, the center hole. I spray carb cleaner down this jet hole and it comes out all the side holes. I'm pretty sure it's clean. Just doesn't work. I'd never have believed it was the pilot jet but Fred said to replace it anyways, so I did, and DAMN if the bike started working right again. (I'm a FRIM believer that, if one asks for help or advice, then take the help or advice. Regardless of how unlikely one thinks it would matter.) I must have pulled that jet out half a dozen times with a cleaning each time and no effect. After confirming the bike ran with the new jet, I put the old one back in and the problem returned. This has now happened 3 times with the same symptoms, same visual confirmation that the jet is not clogged, at least not completely clogged, and that a replacement then putting suspect jet back confirming the problem is with the jet. I should have saved all those bad ones and forwarded 'em to someone here to try, but I was afraid I'd get 'em mixed up and having a suspected bad part is not a good thing. Time goes by and one forgets the status of a spare part, so I trashed them.
I wish I didn't have to pull the bowl each time to replace; I stripped a hole on the body for one. Now use a nut on a longer screw to hold that corner in place.

I agree that there may still somehow be Dragons Blood affecting the jet. That somehow the smallest residue remains and that it somehow coats the jet and reduces the size of the hole. Since it's so small, I don't have anything to try and wipe it out. Any suggestions on what might be run through the jet to remove any of this varnish/Dragons Blood, if that's what is causing this problem? The smallest jet cleaning tool is too large. At least mine is. Anyone have a jet cleaning tool that will go down to a #31 to #34 pilot jet?

I do have the factory stock tank stored in my attic. I upgraded to a XT225 tank some time back when I was looking for more range when off roading. I'll give that a try and in the mean time try to somehow flush this tank. Any recommendations on how I might get the inside of a steel tank spotless?

To recap; I think the problem is with the Dragon's Blood tank sealer. I think that the sealer worked fine for years until one time when I parked the bike for the winter and added Seafoam to the fuel in the tank. I think the Seafoam caused the Dragon's Blood to dissolve because when I was troubleshooting, I pulled and dumped the tank and the gas had a deep red tint to it. I think that further cleaning hasn't removed all the Dragon's Blood and that running the carb dry leaves a film that affects the diameter of the jet orifice. Not enough to block it, but to reduce it. The bike behaves as if the pilot is too small; takes forever to warm up, won't run unless full choke until it does, a lean pop when throttle chopped after a rev and a stumble right of no throttle to maybe 1/32 throttle; that zone where pilot starts to overlap the needle jet and needle position.

Thanks for everyone's input!
 

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The plugged pilot jets I have dealt with the material causing the plug was translucent. If I looked really really close I could see what I would describe as a teeny grain of sand though what it really was I have no idea.

I used to have some really teeny reamers. If I can find some I will toss them in too but no guarantee I can find them.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I do not think you could possibly remove all the Dragons Blood from the Tank/System. Even though the Seafoam liquifies it, once parked for a few weeks, carb ran dry, and although a small amount, the residual Dragons Blood again solidifies a nice cylindrical lining inside the already teeny tiny, itsy bitsy pilot hole. Probably making the #34 a #28 or smaller. I would be curious if you soaked the dirty pilot in a couple ounces of straight Seafoam (which is basically a strong penetrating fluid as it will free up frozen, rusted shut, electrician pliers) and then blow the jet clean, reinstall, if it would run like normal again.

Also, Dragons Blood claims to be ethanol resistant, not ethanol proof. So, between ethanol and Seafoam . . . . . . !

Marty
I agree! I think you hit the nail on the head. Exactly what I was thinking this morning after re-reading everything here. I think I'll pull this jet and let it soak in Seafoam a day or two and try it again. I have a few weeks before the replacment jets show up.
I really like the performance with a fresh jet; bike starts easily without choke if it's mild temps, idles smooth, throttle smooth, just a perfect running motor. If the soak fixes this problem, I'll never turn the petcock off, let it marinate in the fuel/seafoam mix.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I have a brand new # 36 pilot jet you can have. Just PM me your address and I will try to get it in today's or tomorrow's mail.
As for being overly rich idle circuit, just close the idle mixture screw and 1/2 or 1 turn.
View attachment 206974
Somehow I skipped/missed this post. I appreciate your offer! I'll send my address right away. I've been happy with a 34 pilot, so a 36 shouldn't do anything bad other than burn more fuel and reduce range a tinge.
 

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For "cleaning/clearing" jets...I use guitar strings.
An E and a B string (bottom two) should fit through any orifice. Have you cleaned the passages as well?

If the jet works AFTER it has been soaked in Seafoam (or cleaned with a guitar string) but the problem recurs a day or so later....this more or less confirms that something dissolved or being carried in the fuel is what's causing the problem.

There is a (relatively simple) procedure (check YouTube) for separating the ethanol from fuel...maybe give that a try as well...that stuff is evil!
 

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man ski pro 3, this has got to be frustrating. you have incredible stamina. hope the seafoam soak of the jet and the original tank can get your bike back to running like it should.
 

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Here is the reamer I was talking about ( and a used #38 pilot jet).
P1150069.JPG

Here it is inside the jet. There is a ledge inside so you have to play around until if falls in the hole. The reamer is tapered so it won't go in all the way. This is the max it would go in on a #38 jet. These will remove brass so being very gentle is key.
P1150068.JPG
 

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Here is the reamer I was talking about ( and a used #38 pilot jet).
View attachment 206987

Here it is inside the jet. There is a ledge inside so you have to play around until if falls in the hole. The reamer is tapered so it won't go in all the way. This is the max it would go in on a #38 jet. These will remove brass so being very gentle is key.
View attachment 206988
Do you have a link for those reamers?

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"Do you have a link for those reamers?"


Search ebay for "endodontic files". Get size #10 or #15.
For example:
 

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I was going to suggest coating your tank. I see that you already did. On any tank sealers you have to see which chemicals are safe to use for the liner. I will take a wild guess and say that you are correct about the Seafoam possibly eating away your liner and clogging your pilot jet. It is worth investigating at the least. I used the Kreem tank liner, I always use 1 ounce of Marvel Mystery Oil, I have an inline filter. I did one carburetor overhaul at 42,000 miles. I like Berrymans Chemtool B12 but it contains acetone which is bad for my tank liner. If I feel I want to run a stronger cleaner than the MMO I slap on an external fuel tank with my carb cleaner in it and run around the neighborhood. On another bike the Yamaha pilot jets seemed to clog very easily so I put a little oversized aftermarket pilot jets figuring if they clog some at least it will function correctly. I never have had issues with those pilots again.

I tried finding a chemical to remove Dragons blood and I couldn't find anything. In this case I doubt the Seafoam would actually do any harm. That stuff looks like it can never be removed.
 

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"Do you have a link for those reamers?"


Search ebay for "endodontic files". Get size #10 or #15.
For example:
Sixty seven dollars later...

Thank you!

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Discussion Starter #35
For "cleaning/clearing" jets...I use guitar strings.
An E and a B string (bottom two) should fit through any orifice. Have you cleaned the passages as well?

If the jet works AFTER it has been soaked in Seafoam (or cleaned with a guitar string) but the problem recurs a day or so later....this more or less confirms that something dissolved or being carried in the fuel is what's causing the problem.

There is a (relatively simple) procedure (check YouTube) for separating the ethanol from fuel...maybe give that a try as well...that stuff is evil!
Thanks for the suggestion on guitar strings. I'll have to give it a try at least. I have 5 or 6 guitars as well as a banjo, uke, even a fiddle laying around here somewhere. ;-)

I agree with your assessment that, all things remaining the same, the source of the trouble is carried in the fuel. I'd LOVE to skip some steps and somehow flush the tank well enough to remove the contaminant, but will also replace the fuel lines, fuel filter, disassemble and clean the petcock, blow out passages, etc. I've done this in the past, but I got the feeling the tank harbored some Dragon's Blood and wasn't as clean as I thought it was, so I will replace the other consumables and flush/clean the petcock once more.

The problem with stripping the ethanol from the fuel is that it lowers the octane rating of the gasoline. Gasoline is formulated as 'sub-octane' with ethanol added to raise the rating. Today the ethanol content is 10% of the fuel. That means 87 octane gas is reduced to 84 octane when the ethanol is removed. In the old days, I would actually do that; strip out the ethanol and replace it with Toluene I purchased at a good hardware or better, paint store. Toluene would boost the octane rating back up to where I wanted it. Toluene has a RON octane rating of 121 and a MON rating of 107 leading to a (R+M)/2 rating of 114. However, Toluene is no longer allowed to be sold in California.
I digress...
There's more to it than just that, but indeed, just dumping toluene into your gas will boost octane rating appreciably.
 

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I have used a strand off of a wire brush to poke through pilot jets to clean them then use carb cleaner and compressed air. Remember to use safety glasses do not want it in your eyes for sure. The tank if you have access to a hot pressure washer you can wash the tank out, we would remove the petcock and just wash tanks out to remove rust and grime. I generally have just ran Chevron gas and don't usually have much trouble with them plugging up from sitting except for a xr 50 when it sat to long
 

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Discussion Starter #37
man ski pro 3, this has got to be frustrating. you have incredible stamina. hope the seafoam soak of the jet and the original tank can get your bike back to running like it should.
Thanks troll! I don't know about stamina, but before I retired, my boss referred to me as 'the pit bull'. I would latch onto a problem and not let it go until I figured it out. While the initial problem is a real ball buster, the process of solving the problem is rather interesting to me. (Once the initial frustration that I'm NOT going to ride that day) Ha!

I am going to start there as you suggested; soak jet and tank with seafoam. I'll also replace hose, filter and disassemble/flush/soak petcock as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
"Do you have a link for those reamers?"


Search ebay for "endodontic files". Get size #10 or #15.
For example:
This is awesome! Thanks! It's not often I'm introduced to something I've been totally unexposed to and these files/reamers are just that. On Amazon they are $8. Not sure if that's for one, 6 or 12, but probably 6;
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I have used a strand off of a wire brush to poke through pilot jets to clean them then use carb cleaner and compressed air. Remember to use safety glasses do not want it in your eyes for sure. The tank if you have access to a hot pressure washer you can wash the tank out, we would remove the petcock and just wash tanks out to remove rust and grime. I generally have just ran Chevron gas and don't usually have much trouble with them plugging up from sitting except for a xr 50 when it sat to long
Chevron is my go-to fuel as well. I like the Techron component. Keeps my engines clean!
 
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