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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
I have a video I'll post if I can figure out how....
First, here's a link. Let me know if it works. This is a video of after the pilot was soaked and reinstalled. The bike was stone cold over night. Started easy, idles and revs perfect.
EDIT
I forgot to add; the pilot is a #34, up from stock #31. Main is #130 I believe and 2 shim washers on the needle. This bike starts easy without choke down to 40 degrees and ready to ride by the time I put my helmet and gloves on.
I'm convinced the larger pilot aids in the cold start and choke necessity and that the needle shims aid in the dead spot just off idle until the needle jet circuit engages. Used to really stumble, no matter how warm the motor, regardless of main jet size, before I installed the shim washers. 2 washers were perfect, 3 just a tad too rich. Elevation centered at 2,000' and runs well up to 8,000'.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Seems there was a 'puddle' of Dragon's Blood in the bottom of the tank. Still is, even after soaking for a couple months. The symptoms were as if the pilot jet was too small. I imagine the red stuff somehow affected the jet's diameter, making it seem like a smaller jet than it really is.
My off road parts kit will now include spare pilot jet and tools to remove and replace. Takes about 10 minutes to replace and another 10 reassemble everything.
I also installed a new fuel filter, fuel lines and inspected the petcock. (Petcock was fine.)

Here's a link to photos of my TW along with the added photo of red gas comparison and the short start up video after the pilot was replaced.
 

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Glad to see that you've gotten to the bottom of this problem.
Maybe remove the tank and toss in a pint of MEK....swirl it around a bit....let it sit for a few hours....swirl some more...dump...that'll get the last of the Dragon Blood out of there....

Note: MEK is nasty shit. Wear gloves, gown, eye protection and use it outside.....
 

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nice looking bike! glad you got to the bottom of the issue "pit bull"
 
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To verify that the problem is with the pilot jet, after replacing the bike runs fine. I open the carb and put the old one back, problem returns. Put the new one in again and problem goes away.
I look down the center of the pilot with a bright light from the far side and can see light is making it's way through the jet. Not the side holes, the center hole. I spray carb cleaner down this jet hole and it comes out all the side holes. I'm pretty sure it's clean. Just doesn't work. I'd never have believed it was the pilot jet but Fred said to replace it anyways, so I did, and DAMN if the bike started working right again. (I'm a FRIM believer that, if one asks for help or advice, then take the help or advice. Regardless of how unlikely one thinks it would matter.) I must have pulled that jet out half a dozen times with a cleaning each time and no effect. After confirming the bike ran with the new jet, I put the old one back in and the problem returned. This has now happened 3 times with the same symptoms, same visual confirmation that the jet is not clogged, at least not completely clogged, and that a replacement then putting suspect jet back confirming the problem is with the jet. I should have saved all those bad ones and forwarded 'em to someone here to try, but I was afraid I'd get 'em mixed up and having a suspected bad part is not a good thing. Time goes by and one forgets the status of a spare part, so I trashed them.
I wish I didn't have to pull the bowl each time to replace; I stripped a hole on the body for one. Now use a nut on a longer screw to hold that corner in place.

I agree that there may still somehow be Dragons Blood affecting the jet. That somehow the smallest residue remains and that it somehow coats the jet and reduces the size of the hole. Since it's so small, I don't have anything to try and wipe it out. Any suggestions on what might be run through the jet to remove any of this varnish/Dragons Blood, if that's what is causing this problem? The smallest jet cleaning tool is too large. At least mine is. Anyone have a jet cleaning tool that will go down to a #31 to #34 pilot jet?

I do have the factory stock tank stored in my attic. I upgraded to a XT225 tank some time back when I was looking for more range when off roading. I'll give that a try and in the mean time try to somehow flush this tank. Any recommendations on how I might get the inside of a steel tank spotless?

To recap; I think the problem is with the Dragon's Blood tank sealer. I think that the sealer worked fine for years until one time when I parked the bike for the winter and added Seafoam to the fuel in the tank. I think the Seafoam caused the Dragon's Blood to dissolve because when I was troubleshooting, I pulled and dumped the tank and the gas had a deep red tint to it. I think that further cleaning hasn't removed all the Dragon's Blood and that running the carb dry leaves a film that affects the diameter of the jet orifice. Not enough to block it, but to reduce it. The bike behaves as if the pilot is too small; takes forever to warm up, won't run unless full choke until it does, a lean pop when throttle chopped after a rev and a stumble right of no throttle to maybe 1/32 throttle; that zone where pilot starts to overlap the needle jet and needle position.

Thanks for everyone's input!
I'm not an expert but I've seen this before on various bikes over the years. Sometimes that jet hole is open but still not completely open. Carb gunk, ultrasonic, high test compressed air won't always clear crud and varnish etc. If you can find yourself some very fine gauge wire like piano wire or sometimes wire rope strands, even wire feed welding wire if it's small enough, poke that through and see what happens.

Then too it might not be the jet at all, or maybe the jet is only part of the problem. I'm also wondering it it could be an air leak at your carb mounting point? You might check the bolts - clamps for tightness, or take the carb off and either replace gasket or put some silicone on to ensure a good seal. If your muffler or exhaust pipe can suck air anywhere (at the head or at the pipe to muffler joint) sometimes you will get after burn pop-popping. BSA had that in their Victor 441 Special owners manual. Final analysis, might be easiest to simply replace the jet if that works and you know for sure your fuel is not being contaminated.

Just an old man's two bits.

Paddy
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Glad to see that you've gotten to the bottom of this problem.
Maybe remove the tank and toss in a pint of MEK....swirl it around a bit....let it sit for a few hours....swirl some more...dump...that'll get the last of the Dragon Blood out of there....

Note: MEK is nasty shit. Wear gloves, gown, eye protection and use it outside.....
Thanks for the suggestion. Like Tolulene, MEK is also banned for sale in California. Something I'll have to stock up on when I visit Nevada or Oregon next trip. There's a California compliant, non methyl version, but probably wouldn't do the job I want.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I agree...how'd you get the pipe so shiny?
That is a stainless steel pipe off a XT225 (I think, been a while) It's much stronger than the stock pipe and also makes the bike much quieter. It was filthy when I got it, chemically cleaned it, then used a wire wheel, steel wool to buff it up. It was brighter, but with heat, it's mellowed to a golden shade.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I'm not an expert but I've seen this before on various bikes over the years. Sometimes that jet hole is open but still not completely open. Carb gunk, ultrasonic, high test compressed air won't always clear crud and varnish etc. If you can find yourself some very fine gauge wire like piano wire or sometimes wire rope strands, even wire feed welding wire if it's small enough, poke that through and see what happens.

Then too it might not be the jet at all, or maybe the jet is only part of the problem. I'm also wondering it it could be an air leak at your carb mounting point? You might check the bolts - clamps for tightness, or take the carb off and either replace gasket or put some silicone on to ensure a good seal. If your muffler or exhaust pipe can suck air anywhere (at the head or at the pipe to muffler joint) sometimes you will get after burn pop-popping. BSA had that in their Victor 441 Special owners manual. Final analysis, might be easiest to simply replace the jet if that works and you know for sure your fuel is not being contaminated.

Just an old man's two bits.

Paddy
That was the problem; the pilot was partly blocked. Most likely from a film of that Dragon's Blood tank liner product I used and was dissolved when I added Seafoam to the fuel last time I parked it.
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Because everyone was so helpful and patient, I made a video of the stuff I upgraded on my bike. After watching, I see I forgot a couple things; like the longer XT225 kick stand for example. So, without further adieu, here's a short video of the TW updates, my Kawasaki KX250 (I called it a Yamaha in the video!) and a short tour of my garage;

EDIT
After reviewing my admittedly pretty crappy video (gotta stop drinking so early in the day...) there are a few things I didn't point out but you can see. I'll list them here;
XT225 kickstand (look close at the kickstand spring. I had to extend it. Used a long nail I bent into a hoop)
Skid plate (Ricochette I think is the brand)
Seat pan is not stock. I can't remember what I used, probably the XT225 as that is what the tank is. It's got a longer tongue that rides up the tank. The bolt holes lined up perfectly
Clear (red) fuel line and a fuel filter
Fuel tank cap modified so no key is needed to remove it. Not necessary on any bike I've ever owned and makes it MUCH easier to refuel if I'm not fumbling with a locked cap.
Clutch springs are aftermarket stiffer ones. Makes the clutch actually slipable. Stock springs are not much more than an on/off switch.
Tire sealant in both front and rear tires.
Longer rear brake arm. This is the arm at the rear hub. It's a couple inches longer than stock. Doing this increases the torque pressure when applying the brakes, like a longer breaker bar when taking a nut off a wheel. The travel is longer, but the effort to slow down using the rear brake is less.
Irridium spark plug. Best plug, bar none.
Kick start kit. Works great!
Air filter foam. Stock foam will deteriorate after a few years no matter how well you service it. It's best to replace every 3 years or so.
 

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Some persons (Youtube guys) explain that Seafoam is a potential problem. They claim it is nothing more than kerosene. Don't get me wrong, I still use it but not as much. I went to Startron as my primary ethanol remover. And, Lucas Fuel System Cleaner for suspected "clogs". I rebuilt my 1995 carb 5 years ago and all is well -- so far.

I might add: I use my TW very little. It always sits for 4 or 5 months during the Montana winters in an un-heated garage. If it doesn't fire on the first 5 or so rotations during the first spring start-up I pull the plug, drip in a teaspoon of gas, install the plug, and start as normal. Works every time.
 

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It's my strong opinion that Ski Pro 3; AKA pit bull, has earned the Golden Carb Award, which is rarely issued.
Please be aware that most of the carb is silver, and because of this, the image requires some imagination to interpret.
207072
 

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When you say that replacing the pilot jet solves the problem...are you certain that the jet is clogged? Can you actually see debris in it? Does clearing it solve the problem (until the next time)?
What I'm getting at is that maybe it's the act of opening up the carb each time, that clears whatever the problem is....

Another issue might be that "Dragon's Blood" stuff....if it's a tank coating and it gets dissolved by Seafoam...then there are probably thousands more little fragments, just waiting to flake/peel off and clog your carb. Or maybe it stays in suspension in the gas, until you run the bowl dry, whereon it deposits when the gas evaporates.

If you can get your hands on one, maybe try a new tank for a few days and see if the problem goes away....?
Are your carb vent hoses clear?
:unsure: Or possibly the fuel pipe from external filter to carb breaking up inside and then passing into carb ? As It has already been said use oem carb parts and possibly the chemicals previously been used inside tank and fuel system etc is breaking away and causing contamination , is the diaphragm on top of carb ok ? And not partially perished
 

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Everything your suffering sure sounds like ethanol issues. I have several carb. bikes and they all hate to sit with the e-gas. Had the same problem with constantly plugged pilots till I started adding Stabil (not seafoam) and draining the carbs every time.
I recently had a sick PWC and I learned all about ethanol phase separation 100-gas-or-ethanol-fuel-for-your-boat-and-jet-ski It explains that e-gas will absorb water and when oversaturated it separates into a cloudy mix of corrosive chemicals.
When I looked in the PWC tank it "looked" good but when draining the first quart it was the black ooze and then over a gallon of yellow wiz and finally over 8 gals. of bad gas. This is 1of 2 PWCs purchased together at the same time and using the same gas cans, but only 1 went bad.
I had seen the yellow cloudy gas in the bottom of a TW float bowl once and ignored it cuz I was looking for water droplets and didn't see any. Live and learn.
Ethanol is not rusting your tank or corroding your carb. Its the water that ethanol absorbs and tries/ fails to keep suspended.
207078
 

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:eek: What ratio of ethanol is used at the pumps in USA / Canada ?
in the uk we are using E5 so 5%, they are talking about making it E10 in new year 2021 ,
I know the tw should be ok on this but older bikes will struggle to run on ethanol fuels .
The govt in uk won’t be concerned though as fossil fuels are on the way out now :( and electrification is the future now ( or so they say ) until something else comes along:eek:
 

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It's E10 at most gas stations in the US. In some areas, you can still get E0, though it's relatively rare. I have to drive way out of my way to get it, so when I do, I fill several portable cans.

I'd have no problem riding an electric TW, as long as it was dumbed-down to old guy speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
:unsure: Or possibly the fuel pipe from external filter to carb breaking up inside and then passing into carb ? As It has already been said use oem carb parts and possibly the chemicals previously been used inside tank and fuel system etc is breaking away and causing contamination , is the diaphragm on top of carb ok ? And not partially perished
I thought maybe the same thing. So I replaced the fuel lines, fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the petcock and flushed the tank again with fresh fuel twice. The carb diaphram is ok, but you remind me to order one as a spare to have on hand. Thanks for your suggestions! We are on the same page.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Everything your suffering sure sounds like ethanol issues. I have several carb. bikes and they all hate to sit with the e-gas. Had the same problem with constantly plugged pilots till I started adding Stabil (not seafoam) and draining the carbs every time.
I recently had a sick PWC and I learned all about ethanol phase separation 100-gas-or-ethanol-fuel-for-your-boat-and-jet-ski It explains that e-gas will absorb water and when oversaturated it separates into a cloudy mix of corrosive chemicals.
When I looked in the PWC tank it "looked" good but when draining the first quart it was the black ooze and then over a gallon of yellow wiz and finally over 8 gals. of bad gas. This is 1of 2 PWCs purchased together at the same time and using the same gas cans, but only 1 went bad.
I had seen the yellow cloudy gas in the bottom of a TW float bowl once and ignored it cuz I was looking for water droplets and didn't see any. Live and learn.
Ethanol is not rusting your tank or corroding your carb. Its the water that ethanol absorbs and tries/ fails to keep suspended.
View attachment 207078
One of the really bad things about E10 deals with 2-stroke motors. As you said, a little gas will pull the alcohol out of the fuel and it's heavier than gas, so it will settle to the bottom. If this happens with a 2-stroke while sitting for a while, then the next time the bike is fired up, a big old slug of alcohol without any 2-stroke oil, will feed the engine and is likely to seize it!!
 

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One of the really bad things about E10 deals with 2-stroke motors. As you said, a little gas will pull the alcohol out of the fuel and it's heavier than gas, so it will settle to the bottom. If this happens with a 2-stroke while sitting for a while, then the next time the bike is fired up, a big old slug of alcohol without any 2-stroke oil, will feed the engine and is likely to seize it!!
:eek: Tbh I’m not looking forward to E10 at pumps in uk , it’s going to cause so many problems ( nightmare ) why do the fuel manufacturers not add stabiliser to fuel prior to the fuel station tanks being filled from the tankers ??? Seems like a simple solution to prolong the life of fuel :unsure:
 
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