[FnMag]

I searched and read all the threads I could find.



I have a brand new cable and brand new pads on my front drum brake. I just got it back from the shop today ( they put new rear tire tube on as well as did the front brake).



It has to be fully adjusted tight to get any kind of braking power and even then, it's iffy.



I put bike on my big Coca-Cola plastic crate/ bike stand and I can do the spin and listen thing and cant get them to go shhh-shhh-shhh sound. Does it sound like they mucked up ? or should I pop the drum off and check the inner drum surface?

 

[Rainman]

I took off my brake cam arm (the arm that the brake cable goes to and is connected to the outer drum via a splined shaft) and rotated it a couple notches forward. Then I adjusted my cable. It has worked for me.

 

[lizrdbrth]

New cables will stretch initially, work for zillions of miles then start stretching again when near death.

 

[FnMag]

I moved the arm a bit and it satisfactorily stops now. I did the QWERTY shh-shhh-shhh thing and after riding around the back neighborhood culdesacs that have no houses built yet I brought it back and checked again. Very slight "sh"



YAY for the forums, they came back through again !!



Thanks fellas !

 

[GlassAnkles]

i had to move the arm also, good to know others did. i didn't say anything because i bought Tusk brake shoes for 9.99

 

[FnMag]

Oh, this is the first riding I've done on my TDub in a while and even though it was just around the culdesacs and in the open field where there would be houses if any houses were built I keep asking myself if I should sell my Shadow..

 

[FnMag]

i had to move the arm also, good to know others did. i didn't say anything because i bought Tusk brake shoes for 9.99

Mine came from ebay. Tusk also and cheaper than stadium yamaha.

 

[qwerty]

I had to realign my rear brake lever. Original shoes and still have half the lining to go. I don't use the rear brake very much. Danged rear brake will kill you. It lock up, cause a slide, and dump you in a heartbeat.

 

[lizrdbrth]

Single leading shoe brakes don't have a lot of material contacting the drum til they get bedded in as well. Only one end of the shoes expand when the brake is applied. So with new cables and new shoes you could be somewhat brakeless for quite a few miles.

 

[FnMag]

Quite a few meaning 100, 250 or more? It felt good yesterday, after the arm adjustment. Another 30 minutes I could have gotten it to where the lever adjustment was more than halfway out (it's just a tad over half way) and I could of moved the arm more, but it's such a pain in the rear to get that arm back on the splined shaft.



Oh, I hit 6k on the odometer too!!

 

[lizrdbrth]

Is the needle within the wear marks? With new shoes, it should barely move from center with the brake applied. If that isn't the case your brake drum is worn out (unlikely at 6,000 miles, and Happy Anniversary) or the shoes you bought don't have enough lining or the pivot wedge is grooved.



I suspect the shoes. But if the needle is right, it's your cable or the arm position.

 

[FnMag]

Yea. Brand new shoes. Needle at "new" mark.



Was arm position. I could take it off an move it further, but it's such a pita to get it back on the splined shaft that I used the adjustment at the lever to get the "shh shh shh" sound qwerty talks about

 

[lizrdbrth]

Cool. For a second there I was afraid we were gunna have to beat up on Tusk.



(Carefully)snatch a few handsful of brake from a high speed a few times. If everything's right your brakes will improve as you bed the shoes.



Thanks for the headsup on the cheap shoes. We're about due.

 

[qwerty]

I wouldn't be grabbing handsful of brake at speed with new shoes. All you'll do is overheat and glaze the small area that is contacting the drum. Back in the olden days, drums were turned, measured, and "arced" (grinding off the high spot so the circumfrence of the shoes better matched the circumfrence of the drum). This resulted in almost total lining contact with the drum from the git-go and rapid seating in a matter of a half dozen normal stops, with minimal risk of glazing. If you can't arc your shoes, seating may require hundreds of normal stops to avoid glazing.

 

[Xracer]

Please let us know how those Tusk shoes work for you. I've had bad luck with other aftermarket brands.

 

[FnMag]

Will do.

Qwerty. Was doing normal braking from 30mph or less

 

[lozinoz]

OMG. i've been trying for hours to move that spline a few notches... just doesnt seem to go !