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The problem with many rear racks is in the mounting points, and in the width / length of the rack

The wider it is, the more susceptible to sideways torque — the longer it is, and that “leverage” is applied to the two bolts under the seat (which according to GaryL is nothing to do with the subframe)

Trying to mount it to the indicators is about as much use as an 8mm bolt, and including the rear pegs into the equation leads to “over confidence” — e.g. “The Cyclerack complex”

The law of the lever is well documented, but the most insane placement for a gallon of fuel has to be - in a rotopax, vertical, and as close to the end of the rack as possible ….. (guess who)


fred.jpg


Invariably, it’s not the dimensions of the rack — it’s way we “think” that size equals load capability.

The TW is more than capable of hauling loads — just depends how you do is all ……. ;)


deerdawg_zpsbd20783b.JPG
 

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great looking start! I would highly recommend against conduit. Its pretty flimsy stuff and the galvanized coating works against you in many ways. You can use 3/4"x.065 tubing in the same bender and its not expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
great looking start! I would highly recommend against conduit. Its pretty flimsy stuff and the galvanized coating works against you in many ways. You can use 3/4"x.065 tubing in the same bender and its not expensive.
I will try that next time. Maybe on a front rack or different design rear rack. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
CJ7pilot. - still thinking about the ammo can mount but thinking about removing rear foot pegs and coming off them with main frame and bracing from seat attachment member. There will be no attachment to rear rack. All weight should be attached to main frame not sub frame. Any other ideas using existing bike attaching points. Don't want to weld to my pretty blue frame?
 

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The problem with many rear racks is in the mounting points, and in the width / length of the rack

The wider it is, the more susceptible to sideways torque — the longer it is, and that “leverage” is applied to the two bolts under the seat (which according to GaryL is nothing to do with the subframe)

Trying to mount it to the indicators is about as much use as an 8mm bolt, and including the rear pegs into the equation leads to “over confidence” — e.g. “The Cyclerack complex”

The law of the lever is well documented, but the most insane placement for a gallon of fuel has to be - in a rotopax, vertical, and as close to the end of the rack as possible ….. (guess who)


View attachment 97257


Invariably, it’s not the dimensions of the rack — it’s way we “think” that size equals load capability.

The TW is more than capable of hauling loads — just depends how you do is all ……. ;)


View attachment 97265
Go here and look over the frame and sub frame on the TW. The cross brace with holes is a permanent part of the frame itself while the Sub Frame, Part Number 24 and called the rear frame, is a bolt on part to the frame.

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2000 TRAILWAY - TW200M FRAME Diagram

IMO any rack that relies on the strength of the REAR SUB FRAME is a disaster looking for a place to happen. That little rubber pad attached on top of the rear fender is rated to hold 8 pounds and the rear sub frame is basically just there to attach the rear fender with tail light and rear blinkers.

I never had a problem with the rear Cycle Racks but I understand others have. I just appreciate the fact that it gets its strength by a direct attachment to the rear foot peg bolts and under the seat to the cross brace. See if you can find what Vanillagorilla did to strengthen the cross brace which is the weakest link when attaching rear racks. Keep in mind if you want to load 100 pounds on the back of your TW and then go blasting down rough trails you have to expect something might just break. I used many of my cycle racks with a nice homemade aluminum dog carrier box that I strapped my 40 pound Brittany into for a total of right around 75 pounds. I also added the Pro Cycle 19 KG spring and never had a problem at all. I did not go wild over rough terrain with the dog strapped in but I can easily see how that could bend or break just about any rear rack. I still have the dog box and a brand new Cycle Rack if anyone else likes to take the pooch riding, $300 plus shipping. The box is 3/16th inch diamond plate aluminum and comes off in about 2 minutes with just a 7/16 wrench.

IMG_0467.JPG IMG_0469.JPG IMG_0468.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Interesting vanilla gorilla read. Will watch that brace and not try to over load the rack. Here are a few close up pictures of the rack. I first bent a frame like axle rack that attached to pegs but decided on what I have now. image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 

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Forgive my ignorance... I know the rear plastic pad area says 7 lbs. Ours came with the OE Yamaha rear accessory rack. I believe the sticker on that says 15 lbs. Have people had problems with those breaking when loaded within spec?
 

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Forgive my ignorance... I know the rear plastic pad area says 7 lbs. Ours came with the OE Yamaha rear accessory rack. I believe the sticker on that says 15 lbs. Have people had problems with those breaking when loaded within spec?
It has everything to do with leverage. 15 pounds of live weight is substantially increased when it is extended off the back of the bike and then subjected to bouncing up and down and abrupt stops when the shock bottoms out. A 5 pound hammer is just 5 pounds until you swing it with a force. 15 pounds on the rear sub frame becomes quite a hammer when you are blasting down a rough trail.

GaryL
 

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Forgive my ignorance... I know the rear plastic pad area says 7 lbs. Ours came with the OE Yamaha rear accessory rack. I believe the sticker on that says 15 lbs. Have people had problems with those breaking when loaded within spec?
DFD; It appears that the Yamaha rack ties in to the cross brace under the seat on the main frame (as opposed to just tying in to the sub frame). That would probably be why it is rated by Yamaha for double the weight.
 

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