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Discussion Starter #1
Help Guys and Gals!!!!



I've read and read and I've tried everything that has been posted except adding a washer.



Is there someone that can clearly explain adjusting the clutch cable correctly ?



I've tightened and loosened the perch adjustment.

I've done the same with the cable adjustment.

The Spring is on correctly. Although it may be loosing it's "oomph".





Here is what is happening...



Shifting is smooth, no notchiness or anything, but if shifting fast to second or third I can feel it

slipping for at least one second.



In first, if trying to wheelie, it will lift the front wheel off the ground.

In second, all it does is slip.

Yes, I know this isn't good for it.

15/47 gears.

Oil is Moto specific Dino oil and has less than 250 miles on it.



Do I just need to pull side cover off and tighten the springs some?

It's been doing this since I got it but since I'm riding more often again (the Shadow)

The TDubs clutch is annoying me more than anything.





I have ordered new gaskets, washers & a new Torsion Spring in preparation for

doing the washer Mod.





THANKS !!

Mike
 

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It could be grooves worn on your clutch basket teeth, or whatever they're called. If you take off the right side crankcase cover, you'll see it. I had really bad clutch slipping problems, took the clutch basket out and filed the teeth smooth and reinstalled. That fixed the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Right side being the one that the clutch cable runs too or as you are looking into the headlight right ?
 

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Right side, sitting on the bike. The clutch plates are under there. They're actuated by a rod from the left side.
 

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Do I just need to pull side cover off and tighten the springs some?
NO!!!! These bolts are EASILY overtorqued and you can twist the heads right off. Then you have to get the bolts back out of the clutch boss before you can use a new one and get it all back together. If you dont have a torque wrench and know how to use it do not attempt any clutch work. On another note. You can easily check to see if your friction plates are reaching their wear limits using a caliper; specs are in the shop manual. Same goes for the free-length of the clutch springs and warp-age of the clutch plates.



P.S. They WILL shear off BELOW the surface. Yes, I speak from experience. I lived and learned so you dont have to.



-sS
 

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NO!!!! These bolts are EASILY overtorqued and you can twist the heads right off. Then you have to get the bolts back out of the clutch boss before you can use a new one and get it all back together. If you dont have a torque wrench and know how to use it do not attempt any clutch work. On another note. You can easily check to see if your friction plates are reaching their wear limits using a caliper; specs are in the shop manual. Same goes for the free-length of the clutch springs and warp-age of the clutch plates.



P.S. They WILL shear off BELOW the surface. Yes, I speak from experience. I lived and learned so you dont have to.



-sS


Very true. I did the same thing.
 

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15/47 is tough on the clutch, especially in traffic and doing wheelies. Riding with a finger or two resting on the lever will also contribute to clutch slippage.



New stock steel plates, Barnett fiber discs and springs. Problem solved practically forever.
 

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Right side, sitting on the bike. The clutch plates are under there. They're actuated by a rod from the left side.




What he said. The right side of the bike as when you are sitting on it. Oh and, there may (I'm sure there is...) be another way to remove the clutch basket, but I ordered the special tool from Yamaha which made the job easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I loosened everything up after taking a look at how it is on my shadow. I set the lower adjustment to where the little arrow pointed at the line. Then I adjusted it at the perch.

Now the lever snaps back like it should and the clutch doesn't seem to slip any where near the amount it used too. I think that the cable is near time to replace it because it's pretty

far out on the perch. May be time to break down and purchase a new cable. I may also still do the washer mod that was mentioned elsewhere.
 

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Add a washer.



http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv147/ronnydog/P5100128.jpg





[img]http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv147/ronnydog/P5100135.jpg
 

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That's just making up for lost free-length with worn clutch springs.

You'd be better off just replacing the springs.



-sS




I replaced the worn springs and clutches with a new set of Barnett Performance clutch kit and they slipped. I built my bike to 226cc and after the washer install no slippage now for about 8 months. No felt difference in the clutch lever. Simple, cheep and a worthwhile mode.







Ronnydog
 

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May be time to break down and purchase a new cable.
Why break down? You should rejoice; because the aftermarket cable made by Motion Pro is only Seventeen Dollars. Your local Yamaha dealer should be able to get it for you (they got mine OVERNIGHT, something they couldn't do with OEM Yamaha parts). And yes, it all cost me ONLY SEVENTEEN DOLLARS. Same cost as OEM, BUT, the Motion Pro cable was almost twice as thick as the old stock cable; and I didnt have to pay shipping.



-sS
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why break down? You should rejoice; because the aftermarket cable made by Motion Pro is only Seventeen Dollars. Your local Yamaha dealer should be able to get it for you (they got mine OVERNIGHT, something they couldn't do with OEM Yamaha parts). And yes, it all cost me ONLY SEVENTEEN DOLLARS. Same cost as OEM, BUT, the Motion Pro cable was almost twice as thick as the old stock cable; and I didnt have to pay shipping.



-sS


Thanks for the info SecretStash, I'm off tomorrow (gotta work all weekend BOOO!) so I'll go by there and ask..



Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update on this issue....



Pulled everything apart, pulled the springs and added washers and put it all back together. Still slipping. Worse than before. Using castrol 4t for vtwins and wet clutches.. Only thing local and I wont deal with the dealer here because they are asses. Looking at the friction plates while still assembled, they were brown and grungy looking. I have a feeling this is due to it sitting somewhere unused for a long time. I've given up trying to band-aid this and decided to just start with a new clutch.



So, I ordered:



High Performance Spring Set -KG Clutch Factory









Kevlar Friction Plate for Clutch System x5 -Barnett











Steel Drive Clutch Plate -KG Clutch Factory



Replacing these parts should end this problem. Right ?



Going to wait for the parts to come and re-drain oil, pull it apart,soak the clutch overnight and try again. One question though;



Step 6 Loosen locknut. (the one in the center of the plate)



Step 7 Push the push lever towards the front of the engine with your finger until it stops.











Is it in here?

or are they referring to this ?



And yes, my spring is as shown.



Thanks Guys!



Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Anyone ? Bueller ??



Help on the Bold question about which lever the manual is referring to ??
 

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You have the correct lever (left side of engine, where clutch cable attaches to). I don't remember doing that, I just lined it up with the mark and lightly seated the screw and then tightened down the locknut. When you turn the screw in or out in the center of the clutch, it will move that lever.
 
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