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Its kind of awkward because you have to get to both sides of the bike. I kind of laid face down on the seat/tank and turned the screw in the center of the clutch while my left hand was holding onto that lever to feel the pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I won't be doing the clutch for several days. I'm waiting on the parts and leaving to take the kids to the beach for spring break. So if there is any advice that you can give, that would be great.



I know how to get everything off, I think, then it's just a matter of putting the new friction plates and the other plate on. Tightening the springs to the right ft/lbs and then I guess doing the part that I've been asking about. I just hope I can get it right the first time so that I don't have to take it all apart again....
 

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I've been reading up on this adjustment for my own issue. My hand clutch lever engages the clutch with the very last bit of travel that it has. I've adjusted the hand perch and adjusters on the engine to get the correct play in the lever. Currently the pointer on the lever coming out of the engine lines up perfectly with the line marked on the engine. I just was curious, will making this internal adjustment on the actual clutch plate change my engage point in the lever travel? or is that something that will be fixed with new clutch springs/plates?



Thanks for your help



Dale
 

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Looks like I will be tackling this tomorrow and possibly the rear brakes too !




Let us know how it works out.



With the rear brakes, take the two shoes, put the springs on them and put them onto the plate as one piece. I tried to put the springs on after I had the shoes on and I had a "you're making this harder than it is dummy" moment.
 

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I've been reading up on this adjustment for my own issue. My hand clutch lever engages the clutch with the very last bit of travel that it has. I've adjusted the hand perch and adjusters on the engine to get the correct play in the lever. Currently the pointer on the lever coming out of the engine lines up perfectly with the line marked on the engine. I just was curious, will making this internal adjustment on the actual clutch plate change my engage point in the lever travel? or is that something that will be fixed with new clutch springs/plates?



Thanks for your help



Dale




Good question. I did my clutch about four years ago and it engages at the end of my handlebar lever travel. My Dad's engages halfway. I've tried to adjust mine but can't get it. Hopefully someone here has the answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Good question. I did my clutch about four years ago and it engages at the end of my handlebar lever travel. My Dad's engages halfway. I've tried to adjust mine but can't get it. Hopefully someone here has the answer.


I was able to adjust mine by fiddling with the adjust at the motor and the lever. I can adjust to either half lever or more depending on the adjustment at the motor. I prefer it to engage sooner than at the end of the lever travel.
 

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My adjusters outside the engine are both maxed out. Would this mean I'm in need of a new cable? My TW is a '99 and has almost 8,000 miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Like they told me before.. You might as well, it can only help. Mine has 6800 and it's a '91
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Well I guess I am just not mechanic enough to fix my own clutch. Replaced springs and Friction plates But not the steel drive clutch plates.. (i didn't order them). If I tighten the cable adjustment at the engine all the way the clutch wont engage at all. If I go the other way with it, it engages, but slips badly.



I noticed on the pressure plate that the square hole in the center was slightly rounded. My guess is that I need to replace this now and might as well go ahead and order the drive clutch plates at the same time.



Ideas ??
 

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Discussion Starter #31
It's fixed as of an hour ago.



I tried it the first time springs only.. Didn't fix.

I tried a second time with friction plates.... Didn't fix, but noticed the stripped pressure plate and ordered those parts as well as the steel clutch plates. I also tore the brand new gasket.



I gave up and waited on the parts and took it to the local Motocycle shop this morning. They told me that I would have had a very hard time getting it right with the issues that it had.



Said that I should look at getting valves adjusted soon and the carb cleaned and rebuilt. So those are my next projects.




Thanks for everyones help though.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Friction plates worn, steel plates out of spec, squishy springs and the hole in the center of the pressure plate was rounded which was the cause of pretty much everything else. Also said that the clutch cable that I previously replaced was not the correct length as it had to be adjusted almost all the way out. So I'll have to check who I got the clutch cable from and not order a new one from them (RMATV or MCSS).



he said it looked like someone had messed with it sometime in the past as the pushrod to do the adjusting was badly worn and I've not put that many miles on it since I've owned it. I will now that most everything is taken care of. Carb cleaning and he said that because the enrichner screw cover had been removed that it might need to be rejetted. It surges while at a steady throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I read the carb sticky of yours this AM. I adjusted about an eighth turn. It's better, but probably needs a bit more. I rode to work today and it seemed pretty good at steady throttle with a wee bit of hesitation on acceleration. Pulling plug in AM and will see what it looks like. I'm running an NGK
 

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Would the normal position of the clutch lever (engine end) at rest be pointing to the little hash mark on the motor? Considering pulling the side cover to adjust the clutch rod, but want to make sure I need to before I tear into it.
 
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