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I also have a new clutch with HD clutch springs - I have not experienced any clutch slipping with Rotella T.
All Rotella T is not the same apparently and the formula has changed over time depending what weight of Rotella T is being referred too.

Some weights of Rotella T meet the "CI-4 Plus" standard and therefore has more Molybdenum disulfide in it. There are two types of Moly: Molybdenum dithiocarbamate (doesn't negatively effect a clutch) the way Molybdenum disulfide does. The CI-4 Plus standard uses Molybdenum disulfide and can cause clutch slipping.

From what I've read recently Rotella T has changed classifications related to CI-4 Plus over time and has had varying amounts of Molybdenum disulfide in certain weights depending on manufacture date so looking for the CI-4 Plus rating and avoiding it would be a plan worth following when using Rotella T.


At least that's what I put together from reading allot of boring oil stuff.

I could just "settle" on something without an issue but I am looking for "The One" oil that does the three things I want, keeps the engine very quiet, especially when hot. Has lots of tasty additives like Zinc and will last 1000 miles when run hot and hard without shifting getting notch y or the clutch plates sticking when cold starting first thing in the morning. So far Lucas is on top but my testing is not done and there are several more mixes I want to try. End of day, no big deal, just something I want to pin down.
 
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This is the exact jug from which I poured the oil that after I started using the clutch started slipping. I had been using Mobil 1 but switched because I had just installed new pistons and rings and some where I read to use dino oil for ring break in / seating.

Is this the wrong oil? Date is at the bottom of the picture.

 
That one does have CI-4 Plus listed on the label, it uses Molybdenum disulfide and can cause clutch slipping.


This is the exact jug from which I poured the oil that after I started using the clutch started slipping. I had been using Mobil 1 but switched because I had just installed new pistons and rings and some where I read to use dino oil for ring break in / seating.

Is this the wrong oil? Date is at the bottom of the picture.

View attachment 31539 View attachment 31540
 
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molybdenum disulfide sticks to things... not good for clutch plates



  • Some molybdenum disulfide containing additives to lubricating oils are claimed to reduce friction, bond to metal, or have anti-wear properties. MoS[SUB]2[/SUB] particles can be shear-welded on steel surface and some engine components were even treated with MoS[SUB]2[/SUB] layer during manufacture, namely liners in engines. (Trabant for example).[SUP][23][/SUP] They were used in World War II in flight engines and became commercial after World War II until the 1990s. They were commercialized in the 1970s (ELF ANTAR Molygraphite) and are today still available (Liqui Moly MoS[SUB]2[/SUB] 10 W-40). Main disadvantage of molybdenum disulfide is anthracite black color, so oil treated with it is hard to distinguish from a soot filled engine oil with metal shavings from spun crankshaft bearing.
  • In the 1980s and 1990s, additives with suspended PTFE particles were available, e.g., "Slick50", to consumers to increase motor oil's ability to coat and protect metal surfaces. There is controversy as to the actual effectiveness of these products, as they can coagulate and clog the oil filter and tiny oil passages in the engine. It is supposed to work under boundary lubricating conditions, which good engine designs tend to avoid anyway. Also, Teflon alone has little to no ability to firmly stick on a sheared surface, unlike molybdenum disulfide, for example.
 
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That one does have CI-4 Plus listed on the label, it uses Molybdenum disulfide and can cause clutch slipping.
This has all worked out OK for me. It forced me to get new clutches, I went with the Kevlar ones, and I am very happy with them. Not only do they lock up solid and work great but there is a certain snob factor in being able to say "Kevlar clutches".

However, from now on I am sticking with dedicated motorcycle oil.
 
This has all worked out OK for me. It forced me to get new clutches, I went with the Kevlar ones, and I am very happy with them. Not only do they lock up solid and work great but there is a certain snob factor in being able to say "Kevlar clutches". However, from now on I am sticking with dedicated motorcycle oil.
I took your recommendation and have those same clutch parts on the way. Thanks.
 
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That oil tends to make sand stick to delicate parts.
 
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Get your point of view little buddy, however I could detect no gender fluid uncertainty.
 
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Fred would never trick anyone like that... jeeze.. some people.

I like what I see in that pic. However I prefer a head to toe pic. These days we could be looking at a dude and not know it.
 
For some reason that bronze color is rather eye catching, might make a good paint color for a TW for sale I shall be looking at tomorrow.
 
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Going to visit Gerry and look into giving Mr.Gizmo a good home, save the bike from being returned to stock to be marketable to the average Joe who would not appreciate all the innovations. Shall be a spare bike for visitors or when Betty Boop is under the weather. Plus I am intrigued with getting 10 inches of front suspension as well as Banshee rear shock, oil cooler, cooling fan with ducted bodywork, Voyager dash, dual horns, dual sprockets front and rear, etc, etc, etc...
 
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