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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 95 that I have had with me for some years. It has always had a purge, that is going along just fine at a constant rate, but would cut out a bit. When getting on it not a miss.
Just replaced the intake boot on the cylinder, put it back on thinking that was the issue. Still will not start. Took it apart again, seemed a clogged needle valve, as there was no gas in the bowl. Cleared that, put it back in still no start. Checked spark, plenty.

Anyone else have one of these older carbs that can give me any ideas, I would be grateful. I will be taking it apart tomorrow again and will get the aircompressor fired up. Such a pain to take one out of the bike due to the way the cables are hooked up, thanks.
 

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I have a 95 that I have had with me for some years. It has always had a purge, that is going along just fine at a constant rate, but would cut out a bit. When getting on it not a miss.
Just replaced the intake boot on the cylinder, put it back on thinking that was the issue. Still will not start. Took it apart again, seemed a clogged needle valve, as there was no gas in the bowl. Cleared that, put it back in still no start. Checked spark, plenty.

Anyone else have one of these older carbs that can give me any ideas, I would be grateful. I will be taking it apart tomorrow again and will get the aircompressor fired up. Such a pain to take one out of the bike due to the way the cables are hooked up, thanks.
I have a 96, pre-ethanol bike. I see you just changed the intake boot on the cylinder. How is the intake boot from the air cleaner to the carb? My air intake tube didn't fit properly which caused the bike to run a little lean at high speeds which would cause a thump where it was lacking enough fuel for the high speeds. I corrected the air intake tube over the carburetor and it stopped the thumping. Technically we may need to actually put a little bigger jet since these bikes need more fuel with the ethanol to make the same power especially at higher rpms. You may want to clean the petcock and fuel filter just to make sure all that gas isn't being restricted at all.
 

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If you open the drain screw at bottom of the bowl, does fuel drain out? Easy way to make sure float/needle valve is clear and petcock is working.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you open the drain screw at bottom of the bowl, does fuel drain out? Easy way to make sure float/needle valve is clear and petcock is working.
I took it all apart as far and the float and needle valve. There was a restriction and I cleared that. Good idea to check by pulling the bottom screw, I did not notice it earlier.
 

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On my carb, California mod. carb, seems like there was a small freeze plug / cover over the pilot jet screw. If you have that, pull that plug, remove that pilot jet screw & clean in there real good. It sure helped my bike. That jet can really influence the low end to mid range performance.

Also try putting a small spray of starting fluid into the air cleaner box before you pull the carb off tomorrow, just to confirm that it's a fuel problem. m.
 

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Here's a good read done by qwerty years ago.

https://www.tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/591-carb-tuning.html

It helped me zero in on my carb, I did change to a #118 jet, and shimmed the needle. I opened the pilot jet screw aprox. 2 turns.

This in my case helped, and my bike runs very well at around the same elevations you ride at. (sea level to 5k ft.)

Hope this helps. m.
 

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Once the carb is back on the bike, & the bike is running, that pilot jet screw can be tough to get to...

Here is some advice from the legendary "Lizdbrth" :

"Some guys use a bit from a 4-way screwdriver, shorten the handle on a stubby screwdriver, etc.

Your pilot circuit is open 24/7, so ta speak, so it's a component of your total fuel volume at w.o.t.

That's why it's so important. If your pilot circuit is lean or rich the cumulative effect of whatever main jet you install will be leaner or richer accordingly. Hope that makes sense."

https://www.tw200forum.com/forum/technical-help/5751-paper-clip-my-93-carb.html

Hope some of this helps. m.
 

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I really like my mod to the idle mixture screw. Drilled it and soldered a 1/16" Allen wrench to it. That hangs down enough so I can adjust the mixture without tools and I can keep track of turns by being able to see where the end is pointed.
In your case I would make sure the pilot jet is not clogged. That's a small hole and it easily plugs up. If you find it closed, I'd recommend getting one or two steps bigger from jets r us and you'll have an easier time dialing it in correctly.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Took the carb off again after clearing the needle valve. It was restricted so figured that was it. So pulled it off and took every screw out of it. Used my torch tip cleaners to make sure those small orifices were open. Put it all back together and it fired up at the touch of the starter. All is good.

Thanks to all for thei input.
 

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Dumb question for you plumb: I’m up in Maine and put the girl away for the winter with a battery tender. Do you think I should run the fuel out? I was thinking I would set fuel to off and run her until she sputters out. Never having had a motorcycle wasn’t sure this was necessary. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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That's not a dumb question. Yes, this is a good way to keep deposits from forming in the carb over the winter. If you can still ride it, shut the fuel off, drive about 3 hundred yards away, turn around and ride back then idle until it quits. If you can't ride it, just open the drain valve on the bottom of the float bowl after closing the fuel valve. If you can get non-ethanol fuel for filling the tank just before this, great, then put in some Stabil. If your winter is as long as mine (6 months) and you can't get non-ethanol gas I would drain the tank as well (reserve too).

Don't leave it on the tender all the time. I just hook mine up about once a month overnight.
 

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I dose the tank with Reddex, ride it into the garage, swithch the fuel off and rev it till the carb runs dry. The garage is unheated, and in the region of 2 degrees C

Never used a battery tender, and six months later, never had a problem starting up again the next year. The gas around here is 5% ethanol

I would advise against using a battery tender, simply because a constant source of ignition (electric charger) around one and a half gallons of fuel has proved (in my case) to be a completely unecessary risk

This is based on lead acid batteries, which came with the bikes four or more years ago, now switched out to Lithium - but I'm not anticipating any change

As soon as I turn the fuel back on, the Reddex quickly takes care or any risiduals, and the bike picks up from where I left it

Try not to over think it - if you have a problem starting after six months, chances are you parked it up with the problem .....
 

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Good advice.
The trickle chargers like those made by Deltron ( Battery tender) and others have been known to cause fires when left unattended for extended periods of time. A neighbor had such a fire, fortunately in a detached garage so he did not lose his entire home in the conflagration.
 
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