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Discussion Starter #1
I will be posting how to pictures when I get my pro taper high bars in. If anyone is interested. Mostly it will be on assembling the assemblies on to the new bars.



here is the set I ordered.







here it is unboxed at the house



stock setup



removing clutch



removing brake and kill switch



disassemble throttle to reroute



throttle innards



complete



to reroute throttle cable to right of forks, remove this bolt

 

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Those bars are great. They give you a good riding stance.
You'll like the taller bars. If you have a compressor, you can actually move everything including the grips from the stock bars onto the new bar without much trouble at all. Use compressed air under the inside edge of the left grip and it will slide right off. Loosen the controls enough to let them move freely, work the old bar left and right and simply slide the controls off, and then reverse the process to slide the controls onto the new bars. Use the compressed air to "float" the left grip onto the new bar. Easy to do and quicker than completely taking everything off and re-installing. There are some nubs on the brake reservior that need to be removed if you don't drill holes in the new bar. Nub removal gives you the most flexibilty in positioning the controls. Worked for me.
 

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Wd-40 sprayed under the grips will make it easy to remove the old grips. Hairspray can be used as grip glue but takes a few hours to dry. Grip glue works great but you have to work very fast.
 

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A word to the wise...

BuddyMc has "NUBS" copyrighted so every time any of us uses that term, we owe him money...Just a heads up as you show us the step by step photos.
 

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You'll like the taller bars. If you have a compressor, you can actually move everything including the grips from the stock bars onto the new bar without much trouble at all. Use compressed air under the inside edge of the left grip and it will slide right off. Loosen the controls enough to let them move freely, work the old bar left and right and simply slide the controls off, and then reverse the process to slide the controls onto the new bars. Use the compressed air to "float" the left grip onto the new bar. Easy to do and quicker than completely taking everything off and re-installing. There are some nubs on the brake reservior that need to be removed if you don't drill holes in the new bar. Nub removal gives you the most flexibilty in positioning the controls. Worked for me.




Wd-40 sprayed under the grips will make it easy to remove the old grips. Hairspray can be used as grip glue but takes a few hours to dry. Grip glue works great but you have to work very fast.


i agree with these guys...as far as removal goes, compressed air if you have a compressor is the way to go so you don't have wd40 on your throttle tube but wd40 works as well...i wouldn't use wd40 if you plan on reusing your grips though, pain to wipe out...as far installation, spray on the hairspray and just slide them on and like PalmStateCrawler said just give them plenty of time to dry...do it on a hot sunny day if you can and just let it sit in the sun...i put on all my mountain bike grips with hairspray and they have never moved
 

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Discussion Starter #8
going to start this when I get off work. one question. is it possible to change these without rerouting cables? or are they long enough to accommodate the extra 2 inches of height?
 

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Throttle cables have to be re-routed for left turns. If you don't ever turn left, you could get away with not re-routing
Everything else should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Throttle cables have to be re-routed for left turns. If you don't ever turn left, you could get away with not re-routing
Everything else should be fine.




ok, cool. Throttle cables im not worried about. I was worried about the clutch cable. it has lots of small parts
 

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Discussion Starter #11
finally got done! pictures are uploading now



now you can slide the throttle cable over for more slack.



next remove the light/horn assembly



two screws hold it on



slide the assembly off when you remove the stock bars



from the front



fitting new bars



slide light/horn assembly on before you tighten down new bars



lightly tighten for positioning



reattach clutch make sure it has full travel

 

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Discussion Starter #12
we had a hard time getting the throttle/brake/kill switch lined up to where the throttle had snap back in all positions. I finally got it to where I wanted it and we tightened everything down.











top down of routing

 

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Throttle cables have to be re-routed for left turns. If you don't ever turn left, you could get away with not re-routing
Everything else should be fine.




Good call. But if have an older bike its the right turns where it will bind up as the throttle cable exists the left side of the bike, runs up and around the head tube and to the throttle tube.



My throttle cable was binding on my 1990 so I routed it between the backbone of the bike and gas tank and then between my speedo cluster and upper clamp and then onto the throttle tube. No more binding.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
oh by the way, this install had no nubs in so I am free from copyright violation
 

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we had a hard time getting the throttle/brake/kill switch lined up to where the throttle had snap back in all positions. I finally got it to where I wanted it and we tightened everything down.


good install!...i had a similar problem when installing my throttle tube...i think i jammed it on too far...after i pulled it back a little and left some space and it snaps back fine now...this is why i didn't use the bar plugs but i see you used them...does it work fine with the plugs installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
good install!...i had a similar problem when installing my throttle tube...i think i jammed it on too far...after i pulled it back a little and left some space and it snaps back fine now...this is why i didn't use the bar plugs but i see you used them...does it work fine with the plugs installed?




when im full turn the throttle sticks a little but that was ok with me. I only use full turn to back out of parking spaces. if it becomes a problem i will remove the plugs. Thanks
 

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Word of (over)caution (as usual).



Remove the N UBS, at least on the throttle side.



The N UBS will cock your throttle tube off center and bind the tube. If not when first installed later on once a little grit or dust gets in there.



Nuff about N UBS.



No animals were harmed nor copyrights infringed in the above post.
 
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