[kdick91]

So I went on an offroading trip in December (which you shouldn't do unless you're prepared for snow). I decided I should freshen the clutch since I had the money the bike had spent its 6k mile life with the return spring not hooked up. Anywho, I ordered Barnett friction plates and Barnett springs specifically for the TW200. I did a *ton* of research before buying one. I found mixed reviews on the EBC clutch (muddying of the oil, slipping, etc.), only good reviews on stock (but it costs a fortune), and one ONE review of the Barnett clutch in an XT basket. So no info of the Barnett in a stock everything TW200. If you find a review, congrats, you're a more talented searcher than I! Ha!



As far as installing the clutch, it's literally the easiest thing in the world. EXCEPT for removing the old gasket. I spent hours scraping that awful thing off... I soaked the friction plates in oil for about 36 hours (brand new Mobil 4T) before installing. I got everything back together easily, got the clutch readjusted, and was easy on it for the first few miles. Accelerating easy and letting it warm up. I ended up reusing the stock pressure plates since the dimples were still visible and all looked good... That and I forgot to buy them

I really expect this clutch to be heavy and very on/off in its nature. The handle is probably about 5% stiffer to pull, but otherwise is very easy to drive! I can slip it just fine, no more sticking than the stock clutch was. Just a little lurch when first starting and that's all! I've driven this clutch for about 200 city miles and so far zero slipping and no muddying of the oil. I have only looked through the sight glass though. For the price, this clutch does come in far more expensive than the EBC, but still much cheaper than the stocker. I'd recommend it to anyone looking to get a clutch that can handle abuse offroad and don't want to shell out for a stock replacement. If anyone has any additional questions, please feel free to ask!



Kyle

 

[turborob]

Thanks for the feedback - will be good to hear how it handles more miles.



My stocker is getting close to replacement......what's the cost difference between the OEM/Yamaha one versus the Barnett?

 

[rbm]

How many miles will the original clutch typically last?

 

[elime]

My stocker is getting close to replacement......what's the cost difference between the OEM/Yamaha one versus the Barnett?

The clutch in my TW will need attention soon so I found your post very interesting.



Are you using the Barnett Kevlar discs? I saw ebay has a set for about $90 including springs. My favorite online store --Sanjoseyamaha.com -- has stock discs for $7.53 each times 5 equals $37.87 plus tax brings it in right around $40.



If you bought the kevlar ones and bought them for less than the OEM ones please share where you bought them!

 

[kdick91]

Thanks for the feedback - will be good to hear how it handles more miles.



My stocker is getting close to replacement......what's the cost difference between the OEM/Yamaha one versus the Barnett?

For me, I found the stock to be about $30 more expensive for pressure plates, friction plates, and springs. But I ended up only getting Barnett friction plates and springs... I thought it had pressure plates.

This is the exact one I got http://www.ebay.com/itm/320750854972?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

How many miles will the original clutch typically last?

I'd say if your return spring was connected correctly from day one and you're not super agressive, there is no reason why a clutch shouldn't last well over 10k miles. My return spring was not on so it was slipping ALL the time. Even when I pulled it though, it still had some life on it, just not a lot.

The clutch in my TW will need attention soon so I found your post very interesting.



Are you using the Barnett Kevlar discs? I saw ebay has a set for about $90 including springs. My favorite online store --Sanjoseyamaha.com -- has stock discs for $7,53 each times 5 equals $37.87 plus tax brings it in right around $40.



If you bought the kevlar ones and bought them for less than the OEM ones please share where you bought them!

I posted the link of the one I got. It was $80. I looked up where I was trying to find the stock one, but it was some shady 3rd party that put together a 'kit' and it was $100. I suppose if you're not an idiot like me, you can get a stock one cheaper ha! But I do really like the Barnett. Lockup is very positive. When launching hard, it doesn't slip in, when you let all the way out, the lockup is very positive. I found the stock sometimes took it's time when really throttling down and letting the clutch out quickly. I only weigh about 160 though and I'm at 6000ft, so your results may vary.

 

[silverhead]

Someone's been into the clutch side of my engine, as the red RTV goop would suggest.



My clutch was chattering last week and I changed the oil to Shell Rotella 15w40 diesel oil and it went away.



I noticed in the Barnett clutch information it says to delete the judder spring. Did you do that? I've never owned a bike with such a spring... What's it really do?

 

[kdick91]

Someone's been into the clutch side of my engine, as the red RTV goop would suggest.



My clutch was chattering last week and I changed the oil to Shell Rotella 15w40 diesel oil and it went away.



I noticed in the Barnett clutch information it says to delete the judder spring. Did you do that? I've never owned a bike with such a spring... What's it really do?

I'm glad you mentioned that! Barnett's website is goofy. With most bikes the kit either includes the judder spring or doesn't. The TW (at least on the 01+ generation, I'd assume ALL though) does not even have a judder spring. So when it says 'delete' judder spring, I think they are trying to say that the kit doesn't include it because you dont need it. Also, when changing the clutch, just FYI, you don't need to remove the basket, just the cover

FWIW, I used a replacement Yamaha gasket with no RTV and have zero leaks.

 

[silverhead]

I want to replace my red goop with the OEM gasket. I'm contemplating buying clutch plates and higher power springs to have an excuse to go in there.



My bike is a '93, so I assume it has the spring, but if it's not needed, I'll take it out when I'm in there.

 

[Dead1]

Does anyone know the part # for the oem gasket?

 

[Ken]

Does anyone know the part # for the oem gasket?

It would be best to go to Partzilla website and find it on the exploded view. They are reasonable on price also.

 

[Workingman]

What is a judder spring ?
mike from NC

 

[Fred]

Judder springs are slightly convex thrust washers ( convex side inwards in the stack) that allow for smoother clutch engagement.
A somewhat British term, to judder is to quiver, shake, jolt, jiggle, convulse,or wobble....sort of like what happens when we see current out the door prices for new TWs.