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Discussion Starter #1
**UPDATE: Post #12 has all the parts needed detailed in one post -- Thanks all!**



So I've done some research and am pretty sure although not 100% sure that I have the start to a base gasket leak:



Side view:







Here I tried shining my flashlight on the spot I believe to be the culprit, but it is very hard to tell:







Closer view:







From my research I plan to use the new base gasket for the 2010+ model.



Is there anything else I would want to replace while I'm doing this? I'd prefer to only do it once and want to order all the needed parts. Thanks everyone and I think the tutorial will make it pretty simple!



-Jesse
 

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Looks like you've got it all there. I can't be sure, but part #4 from that last one should go with if you haven't got it already, just in case. There might be other o-rings around the studs as well, but I can't remember.
 

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Now I was wondering about taking the jug off, should the piston stay in the bore so the rings don't index out of place?????? Or can you just lift the jug off while leaving the piston on the rod?????????????????????? OMM.
 

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Either way, really. If you can, try to leave it in the jug. That reminds me, get new circlips if you do, even a wrist pin if it's got a ton of miles maybe. This is how one thing leads to another, I guess.
 

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I just did mine last week. Only things I replaced were the head gasket, base gasket, and the o ring around the cylinder. Reused everything else. I used the how to sticky at the top of the forum and had absolutely no problems. The piston stays in the jug when you replace it. I had one slip out from pulling up too far but just pressed the ring in a bit and it went back in without an issue. I started an hour before work one day and finished the next day when I woke up. Probably about 3 hours total and it wast my first time plus cleaning and painting the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the responses. What are the circlips?



I may wait a little bit to do mine after reading more about it last night. I know it'll have to be done, but even if it sits over a weekend there is no oil to be seen. I wiIl probably try to clean it and verify where it's coming from again. I read about using baby powder, do you just lightly pour it all over the suspected area and wait until you see oil? Sounds pretty simple.
 

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I'm not an expert by any means, but while you are in there replace all Orings that you can't get to without a topend teardown. Only a few bucks to replace them and it will give you peace of mind. If you decide to do that, you'll also need oring (gasket) #8 in the top schematic and oring #4 in the bottom schematic. After mine was all buttoned up I still have a small leak. However, it is coming from the cam sprocket cover oring. That will take about 30 seconds to replace as soon as I get it. My philosophy is to replace anything that will be a major pain to replace after reassembly. Get those orings and go to town.



The circlips will be listed in the schematic for the piston assembly. The circlips are two small circular wires that fit into grooves in the piston skirt. They restrict the wrist pin (connects connecting rod and piston) from coming out and screwing everything up. The circlips are easily lost or damaged while removing them. My order included 3 of them just for safety sake. Be very sure to stuff a rag down in the opening in the case so you don't drop a wrist pin or locating stud down into the bottom end or you will have to do some fishing around to get it out.



If you haven't already seen it, there is an EXCELLENT video/photo walk thru for the base gasket repair on this site in the technical sticky area. BTW, before you even think about starting you need to do a serious clean up/ degrease job on your TW. It is so much nicer working on a clean bike. Also, IMHO I wouldn't worry about using the bungee cord and keeping the timing. These bikes are really easy to time correctly when it is all put back together. I was really worried about that when I started the job but it was nothing to sweat over.



Good luck.
 

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I'm not an expert by any means, but while you are in there replace all Orings that you can't get to without a topend teardown. Only a few bucks to replace them and it will give you peace of mind. If you decide to do that, you'll also need oring (gasket) #8 in the top schematic and oring #4 in the bottom schematic. After mine was all buttoned up I still have a small leak. However, it is coming from the cam sprocket cover oring. That will take about 30 seconds to replace as soon as I get it. My philosophy is to replace anything that will be a major pain to replace after reassembly. Get those orings and go to town.



The circlips will be listed in the schematic for the piston assembly. The circlips are two small circular wires that fit into grooves in the piston skirt. They restrict the wrist pin (connects connecting rod and piston) from coming out and screwing everything up. The circlips are easily lost or damaged while removing them. My order included 3 of them just for safety sake. Be very sure to stuff a rag down in the opening in the case so you don't drop a wrist pin or locating stud down into the bottom end or you will have to do some fishing around to get it out.



If you haven't already seen it, there is an EXCELLENT video/photo walk thru for the base gasket repair on this site in the technical sticky area. BTW, before you even think about starting you need to do a serious clean up/ degrease job on your TW. It is so much nicer working on a clean bike. Also, IMHO I wouldn't worry about using the bungee cord and keeping the timing. These bikes are really easy to time correctly when it is all put back together. I was really worried about that when I started the job but it was nothing to sweat over.



Good luck.


Good advice ^^^.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm not an expert by any means, but while you are in there replace all Orings that you can't get to without a topend teardown. Only a few bucks to replace them and it will give you peace of mind. If you decide to do that, you'll also need oring (gasket) #8 in the top schematic and oring #4 in the bottom schematic. After mine was all buttoned up I still have a small leak. However, it is coming from the cam sprocket cover oring. That will take about 30 seconds to replace as soon as I get it. My philosophy is to replace anything that will be a major pain to replace after reassembly. Get those orings and go to town.



The circlips will be listed in the schematic for the piston assembly. The circlips are two small circular wires that fit into grooves in the piston skirt. They restrict the wrist pin (connects connecting rod and piston) from coming out and screwing everything up. The circlips are easily lost or damaged while removing them. My order included 3 of them just for safety sake. Be very sure to stuff a rag down in the opening in the case so you don't drop a wrist pin or locating stud down into the bottom end or you will have to do some fishing around to get it out.



If you haven't already seen it, there is an EXCELLENT video/photo walk thru for the base gasket repair on this site in the technical sticky area. BTW, before you even think about starting you need to do a serious clean up/ degrease job on your TW. It is so much nicer working on a clean bike. Also, IMHO I wouldn't worry about using the bungee cord and keeping the timing. These bikes are really easy to time correctly when it is all put back together. I was really worried about that when I started the job but it was nothing to sweat over.



Good luck.


Thanks Bogey, exactly what I was looking for. I'd rather spend a few bucks and save myself hours of work later. That's why I asked the experts on what else to replace.



I have seen and read the very detailed tutorial, which will make it easy to dive into. He talked about the parts I mentioned along with the circlips but I wanted to make sure I did anything else that is a potential issue while I have it apart. Those orings are what I needed to know!
 

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You're very welcome. It seems overwhelming at first but if you take your time and use your head it is not too bad at all. One more thing. That base gasket was practically welded to my cylinder. I removed it the old fashion way with plenty of gasket remover spray and tedious scraping. I later found out that 3M sells a gasket remover disc that will fit in a rotary tool such as a dremel or die grinder. I spent hours scraping gaskets and would have almost paid any price to have that tool but I didn't know about it at the time. It's bristles won't hurt the aluminum but will remove the gasket without fuss (or so I'm told).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
UPDATE for anyone else wanting to do the same thing and not knowing exactly what to buy: (I hope this is all correct, someone please let me know if it is not!)



My parts list (that I had my local dealer pricematch to partzilla)



5VC-11351-10-00, GASKET, CYLINDER (Qty. 1) @ $8.96 -- (Pricematch link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-5VC-11351-10-00.html) FYI: My TW is a 2007, but I am using the 2010+ gasket as others have noted, NOT the 5VC-11351-01-00 which the dealer recommends



1NU-11181-00-00, GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD (Qty. 1) @ $18.73 -- (Pricematch link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-1NU-11181-00-00.html)



93210-72529-00, O-RING (Qty. 1) @ $3.23 -- (Pricematch link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-93210-72529-00.html)



93210-13361-00, O-RING (Qty.1) @ $1.55 -- (Pricematch link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-93210-13361-00.html)



90430-14131-00, GASKET (Qty. 1) @ $2.19 -- (Pricematch link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-90430-14131-00.html)



93450-17044-00, CIRCLIP (Qty. 2) @ $1.53 -- (Pricematch link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-93450-17044-00.html)



Head Gasket Parts:





Base Gasket Parts:





Piston Circlips:

 

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Excellent job with the diagrams and part numbers. This post will help a lot of future base gasket repairers. I think a sticky of your last post would be great as a "Parts needed for base gasket repair" in the technical section.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Excellent job with the diagrams and part numbers. This post will help a lot of future base gasket repairers. I think a sticky of your last post would be great as a "Parts needed for base gasket repair" in the technical section.
No idea how that's done but would assume a mod needs to do that. It would be nice to add it into the already pinned "Beginners Guide to Base Gasket Replacement" rather than create an all new pin since there are a lot if that is possible.
 

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No idea how that's done but would assume a mod needs to do that. It would be nice to add it into the already pinned "Beginners Guide to Base Gasket Replacement" rather than create an all new pin since there are a lot if that is possible.


Yeah, nice job with the part numbers and diagrams. I'll see if I can get a mod to unlock the thread. I'll plug your post into the appropriate part of the Base Gasket replacement thread with attribution to you. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, nice job with the part numbers and diagrams. I'll see if I can get a mod to unlock the thread. I'll plug your post into the appropriate part of the Base Gasket replacement thread with attribution to you. Thanks.


B-dub, thanks. I was reading through your tutorial (thank you, it's truly amazing by the way) and had bits and pieces of the parts needed or potentially needed but wasn't 100% sure. With help from everyone here I was told what to get and put that together in a parts list to buy. Some day it will help save someone time like many of the posts here have for me.
 

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B-dub, thanks. I was reading through your tutorial (thank you, it's truly amazing by the way) and had bits and pieces of the parts needed or potentially needed but wasn't 100% sure. With help from everyone here I was told what to get and put that together in a parts list to buy. Some day it will help save someone time like many of the posts here have for me.


Thanks for your contribution. That made the sticky a lot better, and will make it easier for those doing the base gasket replacement to get the correct parts.
 
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