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Discussion Starter #1
when my battery dies it will only recover if it is charged on a charger. the bikes charging system wont bring it back to life. both of my bikes were like this. wondering if anyone else has this problem. not really an issue for me as I have kick but more just a point of curiosity
 

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Better check both the battery condition and the charging system. Battery may not be holding a charge and the bike should be able to charge it back up no problems that is the job of the charging system.
 

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The charging system on the TW is largely dependant on the revs – under 4000 and it is minimal – over 4000 and it should be capable of charging a battery to around half capacity within an hour of riding at those (or above) revs. (All figures in this post are approximate, but you get the idea)

So if you are constantly riding at low revs for prolonged periods, this may explain it. If you are revving over 4k on the road for an hour or so, and still have these symptoms, you have a problem

Temperature can also affect batteries when cold starting (as I’m sure you know) – but after that first hour at over 4k revs, re-starting on the button should not be an issue

The stator rotation provides the power, the reg/rec unit converts it to DC and typically regulates supply to the battery at just over 14VDC – the battery then acts as a damper, and puts out 12VDC (or thereabouts) to the rest of the electrical system

It’s unlikely you have exactly the same issue from two bikes, so I suspect your revs have something to do with it ……
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok good to know purple. Mostly going at very low speed. I should note thaat if I charge the battery on a charger and hook it back up to the bike it will keep the battery charged just wont charge it up from zero ever.
 

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Problem seems to be solved. Purple was correct and very insightful. Most of my riding is just above idle speed on slow trails which doesnt support much charging action. I learn something new every day on this site!

Sent from my LML211BL using Tapatalk
 

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Good to hear.

I also do a lot of slower riding and this might be part of my issue with my stock battery. I'm curious to see how the shorai lithium will hold out on slow riding this winter. I might have to get a charger to get me through the winter.
 

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Problem seems to be solved. Purple was correct and very insightful. Most of my riding is just above idle speed on slow trails which doesnt support much charging action. I learn something new every day on this site!

Sent from my LML211BL using Tapatalk
if you don't need the headlight on, then it would be an advantage to put a switch on the low beam circuit to turn it off while running low rpm
 

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if you don't need the headlight on, then it would be an advantage to put a switch on the low beam circuit to turn it off while running low rpm
I've done this in the past on other bikes....I just need to find room on the handlebars for a switch.....
 

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Or just pull the connector for the low beam and use high beam when you need the headlight. (Not the connector at the back of the headlight, the inline connector further back in the rat's nest.) I also pulled the always on connector to the front signals....the two together gave me back about 6 amps and I could run all day long at putt putt speeds with the GPS on.
 

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Or just pull the connector for the low beam and use high beam when you need the headlight. (Not the connector at the back of the headlight, the inline connector further back in the rat's nest.) I also pulled the always on connector to the front signals....the two together gave me back about 6 amps and I could run all day long at putt putt speeds with the GPS on.
That's what I did but only because my LED headlight has no low/hi beam feature. Turning my headlight off when not needing it may have been saving me from worse battery issues.
 

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A sprocket change could permit a higher engine speed for any given over-the-ground speed thus increasing the stator output. This would also help with the re-charge rate. However reducing parasitic electrical loads as mentioned with disconnecting hotel loads or replacing incandescent bulbs with LEDs might be cheaper than a pair of sprockets.
 

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I've said this on here and in many other forums innumerable times, but just to remind everyone -
First off, in post #4 you said the battery was new. And that in itself could be part of the problem if it was not prepared properly.
Most, if not all, motorcycle batteries are the AGM type. These MUST be fully charged prior to first use or they are doomed to very early failure, like after maybe only 2 or 3 starts of the bike. If you buy a new battery and the guy in the store says "just hook it up, it's good to go", that's bad advice. You must put it on a charger yourself and make sure it's fully charged before you use it. This is not from me, it's from Yuasa and any other AGM battery manufacturer, and if you read the directions that come with the battery, you will see this cautionary advice. I have personally found this out from going through 3 brand new batteries that failed very quickly 'till I switched brands and spoke to a Yausa rep personally, and now I have never had one of these crap out, even after 5-8 years of use, because I always charge them up fully first. So be forewarned, if you buy a new AGM battery, put it on a charger when you get it before you use it.
Whenever the battery fails to hold a charge, it's usually the fault of the battery (even if new) rather than the fault of the bike's charging system.
 

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" Most, if not all, motorcycle batteries are the AGM type." - That is overstating things a bit, but balance of charge-before-use advice is certainly valid. I trickle charged a new Chinese AGM overnight prior to installation in the TW200 but it still inexplicably failed after about 2 weeks. So it is hard to attribute the failure method with a high level of certainty. My TWs have seen a few wet cell batteries, one AGM, and now two LiPO4 lithium batteries over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
love this forum. so much knowledge!
I have 12 55 sprockets.
All my riding is super low rpm
My battery was prepped properly (ive had this problem recurring with many batteries and several bikes)
Im going to go with the headlight switch thats a good idea to use the existing hi low switch.

thanks so much for taking the time to answer and offer tangential advice! really helpful.
 

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Mr. Wheel -

It sounds like that in addition to not charging your battery, your "super low rpm" riding could be causing a much worse problem than the battery charge.
You could be "lugging" the engine...this is very bad for the engine and will cause mechanical problems from allowing metal on metal contact (hammering) in the engine bottom end. Due to insufficient oil volume & pressure.
Try running one gear lower and/or a greater throttle opening to get/keep the revs up a bit and produce a better oil flow.

Maybe solve one problem while avoiding another...win-win!

EDIT: Also, avoid making electrical changes & modifications when you can.
That sometimes starts a daisy chain of problems.
When you have to, fine. If not, leave the electrical system alone.
Try the mechanical things first.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it...
 
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