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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
When a month old KLX140g struggles to estart on the trail it's worthy of concern. Why trail bikes are estart only and not MX bikes is beyond me. I think all got it backwards.

So we got pig tail cables for our batteries to charge and are going to make up a double ended SAE wire to connect the bikes should one of our batteries need a boost in the trail.

I thought it seemed like a good idea and worth sharing.:)

On another note I got a fuel hose with inline pump so I can use my oversize gas tank to help out my fiends on long rides should they run out.
 

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So we got pig tail cables for our batteries to charge and are going to make up a double ended SAE wire to connect the bikes should one of our batteries need a boost in the trail.

I thought it seemed like a good idea and worth sharing.:)
That is a good idea, Trail Woman.

But be aware that while those SAE pigtails are good for charging batteries, they are little light for trying to jump start a dead battery. If they are fused, you will likely blow the fuse and if they are not fused you may melt the insulation and/or actually burn through one of the conductors.

Be careful!
 

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I second TW-Brian's concern WRT charging vs boosting. In order to safely boost the second vehs, the jumper "cable" would have to be of the same dia as the existing battery-to-starter cable to prevent melting/fire. A greater dia cable would also prevent excessive voltage loss. Anyway, this is a great idea for charging a dead battery on a second bike, I'd just hate to see something horrible happen to your terrific machine.
 

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Add a third to TW-Brian's advice. The current to start a dead battery is much more than to charge one.

I have seen photos of fried (burned) thin charging cables used to jump start.

An alternative is to have one of the small lithium-ion jumper batteries....that what I have in my tail bag.

The jumper battery packs are not much larger than a 3x5 index card. The cables and clamps are bigger than the jumper battery.

As a bonus, it can charge your phone. I used mine to jump start my truck.

Lots of different brands, and sizes, and prices. The smallest are suitable for motorcycles.

Not recommending any particular one: an example:

https://www.amazon.com/Arteck-External-Automotive-Motorcycle-Flashlight/dp/B01DVSSCG6/ref=pd_cp_469_1?pd_rd_w=gui7f&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=38KAW3MZ7FPGWD0ZFSNR&pd_rd_r=8b8082b8-a581-11e9-b9fa-597a26e8a4d3&pd_rd_wg=Z8Pxp&pd_rd_i=B01DVSSCG6&psc=1&refRID=38KAW3MZ7FPGWD0ZFSNR

Jb
 

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Found a photo of my mini jump start battery:



I don't carry the charger with me, to save space.

The battery is good for multiple starts.

The on/off switch is on the side. It's nearly invisible, but necessary to turn the unit on... ;)

This jumper battery is rated for 150 amps continuous or 300 amps peak.

jb
 

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The voice of experience applauds TrailWoman's idea for use in an emergency.
I have used very thin 18 gauge wire to trickle, then jump start a 4 litre V-6 from my TW. Sure the wires can get hot and one needs to carefully monitor things but a little melted insulation sure beats abandoning a discharged vehicle out of fear of what may happen. You gotta do what you gotta do. you-gotta-do-what-you-gotta-do-35077851.png
As George Patton once said "Take not council of your fears".
One can be amazed at how far one can push things past stated safety margins when necessity arrises.
While I would not recommend, nor use, those flat 2-pole connectors for sustained high current loads I would not hesitate to try it if the alternative was uglier like waiting hours while sending riding partner out to charge battery or return with proper jumper cables, or get hurt trying to push/pull bike ( Remember Biker-Josh and his badly broken ankle from a pull-start attempt?).

EDIT: This assumes one is remote which favors a riskier approach to self rescue. Thicker wire can also be cannibalized from other bike systems like turn signals, horn, and other lighting. Personally I think the time to re-wire a lighting group once back home is less than it takes to hike 20 miles or so seeking help.
 

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While I don't usually ride alone in the desolation wilderness areas as Fred does, I do see the need to take simple easy steps to be prepared in case of unexpected emergencies. A few feet of solid copper wire could prove to be a lifesaver, or at least save you from a long hike. This could be wrapped around a fork tube between the upper and lower triple clamps, or out of the way on the frame underneath the seat. Aside from being used for electrical purposes it could also be used to secure a loose muffler, a broken Cyclerack, or even to tie a tire to the rim to allow you limp home with a flat. Throw in a handful of steel wool and you've got a great fire-starter.

I just tossed this coil into my rear Pelican case.

IMG_2066[1].jpg
 

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First, I applaude Trail Woman for her interest in preparedness, as geography may not allow a push start.

Second, already a lot of good advice on cable size, but the size needs to increase with length to minimize voltage drop...not ignoring Fred's comments about making do.

Third, I will share my series of errors 4 decades ago, for your evaluation:
Circa late seventies, on a 1976 MOPAR family vehicle I had 76-81, I went to the Northridge Fashion Center Mall and parked in the structure later collapsed by the 94 quake.
Coming back from Sears (likely a tool purchase), the 318 would not crank and I did not have a voltmeter with me (mistake #1)
Got out medium duty jumper cables (mistake #2) and got a jump, without success.
Figured it was bad starter (mistake #3) and got one delivered from Granada Hills from an independent auto parts where I had an account when I was doing business as Cycle Tuning Unlimited.
Changed starter in parking structure (ample tools in vehicle).
Battery was the first supposed no service type from JC Penny (mistake #4 could be debated)

No start

Got jump with heavy duty cables (wife came with truck???) and it started immediately.

Exchanged battery (within warranty) at Penneys.

You are welcome to benefit from my mistakes!

Car and truck now have voltmeter and heavy gauge jumpers.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the feedback. I will certainly take it al into consideration.

The charge tails have 7amp fuses.

Maybe a second jumper tail on each battery with heavier gauge wire and connectors?
 

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Thanks for all the feedback. I will certainly take it al into consideration.

The charge tails have 7amp fuses.

Maybe a second jumper tail on each battery with heavier gauge wire and connectors?
I made jumper cables out of the pig tail connectors. I had one end plug to the pig tail and the other end has the mini-jumper cable ends. As long as your battery on your MC is not totally dead it usually isn't an issue if you let the running bike run for a while to charge up that low battery before trying to start it. If nothing else it may push start easier with enough juice for the spark. If you jump it from a car or truck have it off so it doesn't blow something on your bike. That is the main reason I made mine with the mini-jumper cables was for jumping from a vehicle if needed. I also use the small cables to go from my charger to my auto batteries if needed. I just have to watch the polarity as flip flopping it on the connectors of the bike verses my charger are reversed. As with all electrical, be careful.
 

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?..As long as your battery on your MC is not totally dead it usually isn't an issue if you let the running bike run for a while to charge up that low battery before trying to start it. If nothing else it may push start easier with enough juice for the spark. If you jump it from a car or truck have it off so it doesn't blow something on your bike...
Excellent advice.
A discharged battery draws a lot of current.
 

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I'd just spend a little time practicing a bump start, down hill is best. Has saved my rear more then once.
A good downhill can also help clear a flooded motor after a laydown

In 2003, I dropped a new XLH883 Sportster on a fire road and did not get it upright right away. It took a couple hundred feet in second gear on a steep downgrade to clear the fuel enough to fire.

I also learned that bank angle sensors are NOT reliable...the motor was running until I hit the kill dwitch.

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1768777&page=9
 

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The heavy solid copper wire is a good idea. DanSue gave me a piece trailside once to fix a Cyclerack I believe.

While not everyone needs to make a jury rigged repair out in the woods a trick that can be useful anywhere is using a dismounted turn signal as a 12v test light.
 

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Why would anyone buy a bike with no kickstarter? My TW200, WR250, TTR110, YZs etc all have kickstarters. My XT225 is the only bike I've had without one and I bought one for it immediately. Quit buying bikes without them and pretty soon they will all have kick starters again.
 

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My two cents is to learn to push start...carry the romex which is useful for many things....add a kickstarter...carry one of the little jump packs but make sure the clamps are small enough to attach to a MC. Battery. Some arent.

Sent from my LML211BL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Why would anyone buy a bike with no kickstarter? My TW200, WR250, TTR110, YZs etc all have kickstarters. My XT225 is the only bike I've had without one and I bought one for it immediately. Quit buying bikes without them and pretty soon they will all have kick starters again.
Unfortunately the YZ is probably the only one on that list that still has a kickstart...more and more trail bikes are going e-start only now.
 
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