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2008 TW, Beams exhaust, Stock Airbox, 600' altitude... SHOULD I be able to run stock settings on my carb and run good. Im not a carb guy AT ALL (
) so this question is before I go drop a 100 or 2 to have it done. I know these run a little lean stock with #125 I believe. So if anything #128 would be good right since aftermarket exhaust usually just make the lean condirtion worse. This is what I have read from all over this forum. I nice slap in my face answer would be great if you could please
 

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It's not worth the risk. Re-jet it.



You don't need to be a carb guy to rejet. There are some things to be cautious of, but otherwise it's pretty much just hardware. I forget what carb you have, I'd go up at least a couple main jet sizes. A fuel screw adjustment and needle shim could be beneficial as well.



Try it yourself, you may surprise yourself. Otherwise, budget for someone else to do it. Or, find a buddy to help you with it.



Plenty of youtube videos showing rejetting. Watch a couple to get a sense of how easy it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's not worth the risk. Re-jet it.



You don't need to be a carb guy to rejet. There are some things to be cautious of, but otherwise it's pretty much just hardware. I forget what carb you have, I'd go up at least a couple main jet sizes. A fuel screw adjustment and needle shim could be beneficial as well.



Try it yourself, you may surprise yourself. Otherwise, budget for someone else to do it. Or, find a buddy to help you with it.



Plenty of youtube videos showing rejetting. Watch a couple to get a sense of how easy it is.


I actually just watched a few videos went out and looked at the bike. I think I can do this without taking the carb off for the main jet atleast. Where is the fule screw is it under the float bowl also? Also since I have no clue what the shim I need is or want is there anywhere besides McMsatercarr that I can order them from. I dont need 100. I do know go up one by one till its running good and go for .010 shims (correct me if Im wrong). Thanks for the insperation. Need that swift kick somtimes. Im thinking #132 now
 

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I applaud you for knowing how much you don't know, but you're making too much of this.



First of all, you have the new-style CV carb on your bike. This board can be a bit confusing with regard for jetting changes as some of them refer to the early slide carbs, some to the CV carb and few make the distinction between the two. If you put a 132 in a slide carb it's likely to slobber all over itself, and it may be just the ticket for the CV carb and your planned exhaust.



The physical jet replacement is pretty simple. Fine tuning it and knowing if it's right is a bit more involved, but quite doable.



You can't just arbitrarily stick the biggest main jet there is on your bike. It's a process. Fortunately it's a relatively simple process.



Have you ever done any oxy-acetylene welding? I think I can explain the process/need for rejetting by equating it with welding.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I applaud you for knowing how much you don't know, but you're making too much of this.



First of all, you have the new-style CV carb on your bike. This board can be a bit confusing with regard for jetting changes as some of them refer to the early slide carbs, some to the CV carb and few make the distinction between the two. If you put a 132 in a slide carb it's likely to slobber all over itself, and it may be just the ticket for the CV carb and your planned exhaust.



The physical jet replacement is pretty simple. Fine tuning it and knowing if it's right is a bit more involved, but quite doable.



You can't just arbitrarily stick the biggest main jet there is on your bike. It's a process. Fortunately it's a relatively simple process.



Have you ever done any oxy-acetylene welding? I think I can explain the process/need for rejetting by equating it with welding.


Well thanks for that. Im a big forum guy learn then pass it on when I get it down myself. No I know nothing really of welding of any kind just threw a bead or 2 down once. There is alot on rejetting here. I read that my elavation (600') that either a #130 or #132 would be where to start. Then where Im still trying to figure out is the shimming and the pilot screw and idle. I have read tho that if I get the main right then I shouldnt have to mess with the other 2 needles.



Would a tunable supertrapp like I wanted in the begining be the way to go instead. Im in for a simple and just few changes just the carb part is holding me up.
 

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Ehhhh sooo much carb info


Being a beginner, I say just go with the main jet only. I know I suggested other stuff (fuel screw and needle shim) but skip those for the time being. Eventually, you can try for the fuel screw and needle shim. The hardest part will be getting the phillips screws removed that hold the float bowl on...which needs to be done to remove the main jet. A vice grips or channel locks of sorts will help with this step. Remove the float bowl squarely from the carb so not to disrupt the floats inside. Then remove the main jet (you can see another hex below the main jet, use a 10mm box end to hold that bottom hex stationary and then use an 8mm to remove the jet and re-install the new one until snug...no need to super torque it, run it in til snug then another ~1/8 turn)... (sourced from here: http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/937-tk-carb-photos-and-parts-identification/)







It's intimidating to think about, but once you do it you'll be thankful you didn't pay someone to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Being a beginner, I say just go with the main jet only. I know I suggested other stuff (fuel screw and needle shim) but skip those for the time being. Eventually, you can try for the fuel screw and needle shim. The hardest part will be getting the phillips screws removed that hold the float bowl on...which needs to be done to remove the main jet. A vice grips or channel locks of sorts will help with this step. Remove the float bowl squarely from the carb so not to disrupt the floats inside. Then remove the main jet (you can see another hex below the main jet, use a 10mm box end to hold that bottom hex stationary and then use an 8mm to remove the jet and re-install the new one until snug...no need to super torque it, run it in til snug then another ~1/8 turn)... (sourced from here: http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/937-tk-carb-photos-and-parts-identification/)







It's intimidating to think about, but once you do it you'll be thankful you didn't pay someone to do it.


Wow now thats a great picture to go off huge help right there. With this pic I know I can tackle this myself now so thank you. Im going to buy 3 jets. 128, 130 and 132. Start with the smallest and move up. After I get a little more familiar with it and comfortable I will go a little farther. Whenever I hit the point of adjusting more it is the pilot screw I turn out not the pilot jet itself. I know thats turned in pretty far from the factory. Did I read correctly that stock the pilot just turned in to far and most people turn it out 2 turns give or take a little and somtimes that helps even before re-jetting.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That is a fantastic thread and is going to be a massive help. How do you take that pilot screw cap off
 

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I just screwed a drywall screw in a few threads then pulled it out. I didnt even remove the carb, just rotate it.



I had those photos as well as the technical manual, supplement, and valve guide printed out and bound at office max.



Do yourself a favor and get JIS screw drivers before you go stripping all the screws, they are not philips heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Once again another great thread for a newbie. 2 last questions for you helpful fellows.

When they talk about shimming the needle what needle and where on this said needle I think its talking about the main jet needle but not sure and not sure where they would go.

Last does anyone know the factory pilot screw settings or any other carb settings I would need to know.



I gotta thank you for all the help. I'm actually confident now to tackle this on my own inch by inch. So thanks for all your time with my.basic questions. Even if I keep my stock exhaust I now know things I would have never before
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Once again thanks a bunch. My stock main jet is #125 and the pilot screw is 1 turn out? Thats what i came up with from ALOT of reading. This sound right?
 

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Straight up, if you run an aftermarket exhaust with stock carb tune, you moght as well be wearing plaid flannel knickers. You'll be a total wretching dweeb who deserves to die.



There are only three things you can only do for yourself, 1) prevent forest fires, 2) use the butt-dyno method to achieve perfect carb tune, and 3) masturbate. Refer to the tuning article and invest the several hours of necessary time a newbie will invest to learn and apply the butt-dyno tuning method. Your TW will reward you with a lifetime of good sex throttle response.



I've always found the stock pilot jet adequate, from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. The needle spacers I use are flat washers that came right out of the stainless hardware I use for radio control models--any hobby shop will have washers of the appropriate size, though many building supply and hardware stores will not have anything small enough. Another good source is the flat washers used to hold components in electronic cases. A minimum of one washer is always needed, but generally speaking, the bigger the main jet, the fewer are needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ya have to swap #1 & #3 if your married. Ok so I have all this in my head and organized up there, except for how to access the needle that needs to be shimmed...... The picture doesn't quite tell me where
 
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