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Discussion Starter #1
OK folks I'm looking for your thoughts. Because my TW is customized with a yz250f engine there is a clearance issue with the kick start lever. The po/builder created a homemade lever that looks like shit and works pretty much like shit as well. If I use the kicker as it sits now I have to put some sort of bushing (a little over a 1/16 of an inch for a guess) behind it on the shaft or it still contacts the frame I've picked up a used lever for the engine for cheap and am ready to try and modify it. I need to bend the lever in a couple of spots to create the needed clearance... whats the best way to go about this? I'm leery of applying too much heat but don't know what other options might be available.



I suppose I could create my own kicker like the builder did, tho I don't think I would use square tubing like he did. I've thought of roughing one up with solid round stock with my little crappy mig to get clearance correct then taking it to someone with some proper gear to weld it up right.



OK go ahead and laugh at the homemade kicker... here it is




If you were in this position what would you explore for options?



z
 

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. . . If you were in this position what would you explore for options?



z
Z,



You can get the TW200 kick-start boss and it should be a simple attachment to your lever. You will have to study your lever and the TW200 lever to see if the additional offset provided by the TW boss will give you the necessary clearance. I have a post on that, which is included in the kick-start sticky - you might want to look there. Here is a photo of the XT225 boss next to the TW boss.





Aluminum alloy doesn't take to heating and bending like steel does. It tends to reach a critical temp and then just slumps into a puddle. But your lever should be cast steel - mine is.



Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would have a welder do it.


I'm leaning in this direction as well, I've considered making it a solid kicker without the joint. When you need to start the bike... slip the lever onto the shaft and kick the beast until it. Then stow it with clips/velcro under the seat.



z
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Z,



You can get the TW200 kick-start boss and it should be a simple attachment to your lever. You will have to study your lever and the TW200 lever to see if the additional offset provided by the TW boss will give you the necessary clearance. I have a post on that, which is included in the kick-start sticky - you might want to look there. Here is a photo of the XT225 boss next to the TW boss.





Aluminum alloy doesn't take to heating and bending like steel does. It tends to reach a critical temp and then just slumps into a puddle. But your lever should be cast steel - mine is.



Good luck!


Hmm I wasn't aware the TW has a steel kicker, the bike only came with the homemade pos. I'll have to check if the boss for the YZ uses the same splines as the TW, if it does it looks as tho it (the TW boss) has a significant offset compared to yz's offset. I'll check on the thread you suggested.. thanks for the heads up!




z
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm concerned that the TW boss won't work. I notice that the TW boss and the XT boss are both held on with a "pinch bolt" whereas the YZ boss is slipped on and held with a allen head socket screw into the end of the shaft. It's a shame.. because it looks like the offset on the TW boss just might be enough.. I'm not afraid of adding a little bit of a "groove" in the kickstart shaft, I wouldn't have to remove very much material to allow the bolt to pass. I do need to know the dimension of the TW boss tho to see if it will rotate within allotted space on the YZ engine side cover.



z
 

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You can still use the TW slip on piece. If the splines are a match, slip it on to your engine. Use a vice-grip to clamp it to the motor shaft with just enough pressure to only snug enough to slip on and off with just a bit of resistance. Now with your welder, weld up that gap just enough to hold that dimension. Now you can use the allen bolt and a washer to hold the kicker arm in place. Just a thought. Gerry
 

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You can still use the TW slip on piece. If the splines are a match, slip it on to your engine. Use a vice-grip to clamp it to the motor shaft with just enough pressure to only snug enough to slip on and off with just a bit of resistance. Now with your welder, weld up that gap just enough to hold that dimension. Now you can use the allen bolt and a washer to hold the kicker arm in place. Just a thought. Gerry


Z,



What Gerry said is right on and pretty easy to do. Just remember to grind a v-groove along the lot and clean off all the paint before you weld it shut. There is a fair amount of stress on that boss as you crank and you want as much weld penetration as you can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the advice and tips on the TW splined boss guys!
I have a couple of new directions now and hopefully I can get this sorted out sooner rather than later. It never ceases to amaze me the level of ingenuity that's displayed on this forum, you guys and this forum ROCK!



z
 
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