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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 2005 TW new in 2006 (Hey! It was $500 off!) and have run it and run it. Its been a great little bike and now, 8 years later, I have 29,000 miles on it. I've saved enough fuel to pay for it at least once. (After regearing for treet with a 15T front and a 45T rear, I average 92MPG and can get over 105MPG on hot, humid days holding under 40MPH). So, thats the backstory.

So, here is the problem: about two months ago my son was doing about 40 down a country road and he was adjusting the mirror and, well, with potholes and such and it got away from him. It went over on the right side. Surprisingly the luggage rack took 80% of the scrape. The other 20% was taken by the bikini faring. Besides the luggage rack, the bikini faring and the bent brake handle, all appears to be fine, except, the right from fork was bent back some. Not a tremendous amount, but enough to put the wheel out of alignment. After doing the typical loosening of the tripple clamp and trying to force it back into position, I realized, by looking at the fork tubes, that the right fork tube is bent backward a bit.

What should I do? What do you recommend? Has anyone had any experience with straightening a fork tube? Do i need to disassemble it to straighten it? Should I just trash it and buy a whole new unit?

Frankly, I've done a lot of work on bikes, mainly engines, sprockets, bearings. Though I'm certainly not scared of forks, I've never actually done anything with them and certainly not bent ones.

Thanks for any information.

(...and, by the way, don't pay any attention to that "Junior Member" label. I joined in 2008 but for some reason my account is GONE!)

---
TheRider

1974 Honda CB360 - It got me there!
1975 Honda TL125 - Anywhere you want to go!
2005 Yamaha TW200 - Coolest looking. Major MPG!
2007 Kawasaki KLR650 - Red Rocket Between Your Legs!
 

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I have never straightened a fork tube but I am sure that it can be done unless it is bent enough to crease the tube, then it would need to be replaced.

The easiest thing to do would be to replace the entire right fork assembly- both upper and lower legs together. Since it is the right fork, you can use one from any year TW from 1987 to the present.

You could also replace just the upper fork tube, however this would involve disassembly and reassembly. There is one currently available on the classified section for $50.00 shipped.

http://tw200forum.com/forum/tw200-classifieds/8184-fs-new-inner-fork-tube-tw200.html
 

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I used to rebuild write off bikes ,and have straightened many forks in a press with a set of v blocks .Kinked ones I just toss ,and a very very good examination of the rest of the front suspension is always warranted .Depending on where the bend is ,removing the leg might be all the disassembly required ,set it up on some vee blocks then use a dial indicator to spot the problem areas .Check the other side as well .
 

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+1 on the press. Straitened out the fork tubes on my bike using nothing but a shop press, couple of pine blocks and a strait edge. I was surprised how far I had to take them past center
cause they were made out of some pretty springy stuff. That was on a suzuki gn250
 

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Well, if ya can't straighten it, you could get a cheap used one on ebay. There's a few listed there now. $35 bucks for both complete forks. Not sure if they are for disk or not, but you could always swap out the parts....;)
 

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Look at our Classifieds Section. Someone here is selling Inner Fork Tubes. For that price, I wouldn't bother messing with trying to straighten yours. It's pretty hard getting it "Perfect".

Don't know about you, but close is not good enough for me....;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks to everybody. I figured I'd take all of your advice and stop when I had a straight fork.

1. I tried straightening it myself. I'm no expert but I'm pretty good at faking it. SUCCESS!!!

2. Figured if I screwed it up, no problem, just get another one. Didn't have to take this advice. ...but! who knows what will happen in the future.

3. I did recheck frame and triple clamp for both alignment and integrity and looks like theres no problem. There is only one thing I am suspicious of: The bike will turn very slightly more to the right (the same side was where the fork was bent and the side it was laid over on) than it will left. After examination, I really have to wonder if maybe it always did. Even if it didn't, its only a couple degrees at most. Its noticeable if you turn it but the bike seems to ride and corner well.

Any further advice or comments would be greatly appreciated!

BTW, we're, more or less, taking it off the street. My son just bolted up a 58T rear and we have a Duro PowerGrip ordered for it.
 

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There is only one thing I am suspicious of: The bike will turn very slightly more to the right (the same side was where the fork was bent and the side it was laid over on) than it will left. After examination, I really have to wonder if maybe it always did. Even if it didn't, its only a couple degrees at most. Its noticeable if you turn it but the bike seems to ride and corner well.

Any further advice or comments would be greatly appreciated!
Probably damaged the steering stop. Check the welded tab on the frame where it contacts the knob on the triple tree
 

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3. I did recheck frame and triple clamp for both alignment and integrity and looks like theres no problem. There is only one thing I am suspicious of: The bike will turn very slightly more to the right (the same side was where the fork was bent and the side it was laid over on) than it will left. After examination, I really have to wonder if maybe it always did. Even if it didn't, its only a couple degrees at most. Its noticeable if you turn it but the bike seems to ride and corner well.
I have a 2005 as well. For whatever reason, the steering stop tab is not symmetric. The ears on the lower triple clamp are symmetric, but the tab that they run in to will allow more steering travel to the right than to the left. I am not certain why, but it is factory.

Matthew
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
...in the continuing saga of the 2005 with the bent fork:

When the fork bent, it twisted the front fender bracked. We've tried hammering it out straight but it just seems impossible to get it right. I've ordered a new fender bracket.

We've been riding it around a bit on the straightened fork. Seems OK.

Also ordered a new throttle sleeve. When it hit the pavement, it tore the end of it off and needs replaced.

The original fork gators were a pile of rings on the fork bottom. Cut them off and put a pair of "Shox Sox" on them. Looks great and keeps the dirt off the seals.

Just put a new tire up front. Its an IRC GP-110. Had one on before the Trail Wing road tire and wore it out. It may sound funny but this is the 4th tire I've had on the front of this bike. It does, after all, have just over 30,000 miles on it.

The restoral process pretty much complete.

The next step is to put the Duro Powergrip on the back. To trim? or not to trim? That is the question! Oh, and what innertube to use with the powergrip? Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, we're all done. The duro is in place and the boy has been riding it. Next step is the hare scramble this weekend.

Anybody ever try that? We stripped the rear turn sigs and taillight sub-assembly along with the rider peg sub-asemblies. We're running a 58 tooth rear with a 15 front. With that duro, its like a tank. Its not a fast bike but I think if we end up with a slimey hare scramble we may get a plaque. Looks like a different bike.

The straightened fork seems to be holding.
 

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Why no pic's? Glad to hear all is on track with the bike. Take some pics at the hare scramble too!

Tom
 

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source for 58 t sprocket

Well, we're all done. The duro is in place and the boy has been riding it. Next step is the hare scramble this weekend.

Anybody ever try that? We stripped the rear turn sigs and taillight sub-assembly along with the rider peg sub-asemblies. We're running a 58 tooth rear with a 15 front. With that duro, its like a tank. Its not a fast bike but I think if we end up with a slimey hare scramble we may get a plaque. Looks like a different bike.

The straightened fork seems to be holding.

Hey where did you source your 58 t sprocket? Ive only been able to find 55t. I know you can have custom ones made bigger sizes but I dont want to spend a fortune for something that i wear out real fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hmm. I'm pretty sure it was MotorcycleSuperstore.com, I've bought a lot of parts there.

Nope! I got it from Rissler's Extreme ATV in Brazil, Indiana. I ordered it direct from them. They have a site but it didn't show the options so I called them. (812-448-8532) and asked "Roy" if they had anything larger and the 58T was it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK, guys, I realize I've been a bad person. I know you want pictures. I'll get them. I'll probably make another thread. But, I need more help and I know this is the place.

I'll repost this question under "Hare Scramble TW200"

We've just done our second hare scramble. Here is the problem and conditions:

First race, chain came off in deep mud, jammed inside the case, got a DNF (Did not finish...)

Second race, chain came off in deep mud, twice. Was able to re-rail and continue. Busted hole in upper countershaft "horn" .. Picture to follow.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Moving this topic of discussion to "Hare Scramble TW200".

It will be at least later today before I get it posted but probably not for a few days.

-TR
 

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I have a 2005 as well. For whatever reason, the steering stop tab is not symmetric. The ears on the lower triple clamp are symmetric, but the tab that they run in to will allow more steering travel to the right than to the left. I am not certain why, but it is factory.

Matthew
Do japanese drive on the right side of the road? Right hand turns are sharper than left hand turns on American roads. Makes sense to me that the bars would turn further in that direction to accommodate.
 

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No, they drive on the left, like Brits. The idea that motorcycle manufacturers build in more travel to one side is hogwash. It's just poor welding.
 

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And besides that, there is no road curvy enough to need lock to lock steering at any speed

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 
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