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Discussion Starter #1
I bought an '06 t-dub with 6K miles. The oil's been changed, the spark plug and air filter are clean. It runs kind of rough with the occasional hiccup. It doesn't run hot, no smoke from the muffler, just a little on startup. I had to set the idle a little high to keep it from dying. It had been sitting in a garage for a couple years. Does it just need to be run for awhile? What could I do for her short of going to a mechanic? I was looking at treatments and fuel additives, I almost went with the STP engine treatment, but thought I'd ask here first.
 

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If the bike has been sitting for a few years, you may just have a gunked up carb. The volatile components of the gas evaporate leaving behind a varnish-like residue which can clog up the carb jets. One of the easiest things to try before taking off the carb and cleaning it, is to put some Seafoam or, even better, Berryman's B12 Chemtool, 1-2oz/gal (no more) in the gas tank and try and run it for a while and see if it gets cleaned out. You can get those at any auto parts store or Walmart, Seafoam is about $10 a can. Berryman's is about $3 a can. If that fails, you may have to remove the carb and get it cleaned more thoroughly (disassembling it and cleaning out thoroughly every orifice).

And dump the gas too if that has been sitting for years and that's what you are burning now -- put fresh gas in the tank.
 

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Nothing substitutes for a real carb cleaning. I don't know that from a TW, but I used to own an old Fiat.... So if you don't get satisfactory improvements out of a can, pull the carb and clean it with solvents, pressurized air and a bit of voodoo.



That said, the B12 is more of a solvent than Seafoam... I think. I'm not a chemist, but I'm married to one. I would opt for the B12 over the Seafoam.



I have had good luck with Seafoam as a short term fuel stabilizer after I remove most of the alcohol from my gas. I know, it is stupid to put alcohol (in the Seafoam) back into the gas after going to all of the work to remove alcohol!



But that gas sits for a couple of weeks sometimes and I think the Seafoam helps stabilize it for that period of time. Any fuel system cleaning it does is a secondary benefit.
 

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Check the idle mixture screw (some call it the pilot screw) and make sure it is open about 2 turns. (I think the "rule" is 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns).



I third Chemtool but must add Seafoam is pretty good too.



What I did was unhook the fuel line, ran the engine until it died, then with the red straw gently squirted Chemtool into the float bowl and let it soak. After 15 minutes or so, I re attached the fuel line and started the engine, That worked to clean everything but the vacuum pickup to the diaphragm which I had to remove the carb to clean -- it is a long story about cleaning out that little elbow but a couple of drops of Dow heavy duty oven cleaner, carefully placed in the orifice using a small screw driver, worked wonders.



Good luck!
 

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I like the Berryman's B12 Chemtool much better, as I said, and use it in all my bikes, lawn mowers, etc., adding 1oz/gal every 3 or 4 tankfulls of gas, and never have carb problems if they sit for a while. It's not a fuel stabilizer but it does keep the carb clean by being dissolved in the fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I really appreciate the replies. I took her out to the mountains yesterday and she pooped out on me a mile in. I was heartbroken. I called a mobile mech on craigslist, he quoted $150 for a carb clean, which I thought was kind of steep. I'd love to do it myself, following TK's tek, but I don't know if I have it in me. I guess I'll try the spray first.



What is the easiest way to empty the gas tank? I'd like to start fresh with some high-octane.
 

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this is what i would do...there are plenty of tutorials and photos as well as members on here that can help you along to do it yourself...



download the manuals...

http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/75-service-and-repair-manuals/



take the carb off...clean it

http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/866-lazy-mans-teikei-tk-carb-cleaning/



adjust the throttle mixture screw



drain the fuel by disconnecting the hose after the petcock and make sure the fuel flows freely...pull the petcock off and check it for any blockages...add fresh fuel...add the fuel treatment...i assume you have a stock gas tank so you shouldn't have any tank venting issues
 

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I like the Berryman's B12 Chemtool much better, as I said, and use it in all my bikes, lawn mowers, etc., adding 1oz/gal every 3 or 4 tankfulls of gas, and never have carb problems if they sit for a while. It's not a fuel stabilizer but it does keep the carb clean by being dissolved in the fuel.


Seafoam works just the same. If you need a good cleaning you should get a can of berrymans chem dip. $30 investment that can clean all your friends and your carb.
 

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There is no advantage to high octane gas in a TW - that is meant for high compression engines to avoid pre-ignition. The TW does NOT need this, and high octane gas actually burns slower, may give you worse gas mileage, will give you less "power", and waste your money. Check the owners manual and anything else you can find, the TW uses regular gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Copy that, thanks. I opened it up and the bowl and jets seem clean. I gather the carb isn't my problem. Someone said check the compression how do I do that? What else would cause overheating and throttle spasms?
 

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There is no advantage to high octane gas in a TW - that is meant for high compression engines to avoid pre-ignition. The TW does NOT need this, and high octane gas actually burns slower, may give you worse gas mileage, will give you less "power", and waste your money. Check the owners manual and anything else you can find, the TW uses regular gas.


I know this may be off topic a bit, But my TW2012 states it is "Premium Only" Is this just a bunch of bull? I could understand issues with O2/MAF Sensors and such on a fuel injected vehicle. but on a carbed Low compression OHV 4 stroke motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Man, I am hurtin. I should've just bought a new one if I wasn't ready to deal with this. Sorry I started two threads, I wanted a new one to address the carb tek specifically.
 

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I would like to suggest that you carefully inspect the idle jet to be sure it is clear or open. It is a very small orfice. I use a piece of stranded electical wire that I pull one wire out of to clean the orfice. The soft copper wire will not hurt or damage the brass orfice. It has worked for me many times.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Idle jet? I've pulled a pilot jet, main jet, and pilot screw. Do you mean the tube attached to the bowl?
 

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Idle jet? I've pulled a pilot jet, main jet, and pilot screw. Do you mean the tube attached to the bowl?
The idle jet and pilot jet are the same thing.



Jb
 

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I know this may be off topic a bit, But my TW2012 states it is "Premium Only" Is this just a bunch of bull? I could understand issues with O2/MAF Sensors and such on a fuel injected vehicle. but on a carbed Low compression OHV 4 stroke motor?


i saw this too. i was wondering what gas do you use in your tw ?
 

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ME too



Fan of Seafoam on carburetor bikes and cleans petcock screen

Run with seafom, shut off, over night the magic happens



I often would clean carbs by loosening them the tilting them so I could get at the bowls crews



Take off the bowl and spray away, easy peasy and fast



Note Most sealants can't be used against ethanol fuel they turn to jelly



Take it apart wipe down the rubber really clean and or brush clean the metal

assemble and tighten in 2 stages like torquing a head
 
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