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Discussion Starter #1
I would really like to have a disk brake in the rear but i'm unable to fabricate one. If anyone has these skills I would happily compensate you for your time and parts. But seeing how that probably won't happen, what kind of shoes should I purchase that have better stopping power than the crappy stock ones. I tried grooving them and that seems to have helped with the squeaking and glazing but they still suck! I'm guessing that sintered pads would be my best bet bet but wanted your opinions. To be honest, I would love to be able to lock them up as crazy as that sounds but I would be happy to just be able to stop with them!
 

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I put the green EBC pads on and I think they suck. I think the stock pads were better. I have never had any squeak problems with either.
 

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I never had squeaking and remember being able to lock up my '89. I think the stock pads and the right adjustment should get you the same, but if not, consider having the shoes arced and all that stuff. It might be pricey compared to the cost of TW200 shoes, but it can do what adjusting and replacing can't sometimes.
 

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A few of the folks on here have utilized the TTR 225 brake arm. It's longer and therefore gives more leverage. Without a stretched swingarm you might have to shorten the brake rod, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can you "arc" the pads by simply sanding them? By looking at the pads, they appear to be making contact all the way across but I will go ahead and tighten the rod and try "arcing" them before buying sintered pads.
 

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Read this, especially the last line. This guy can do the job for you or give you free advice on the TW's shoes.



As mentioned, though, try to get all the leverage and proper adjustment that you can before you go reshaping your shoes.
 

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I didn't realize I'd been procrastinating for nearly 3 years. Been on my list since I first saw your posting on the old site. You should do another posting of it over here.



I need a serious rear brake. I never saw any follow-up on the mod. Was it worthwhile, or only a slight improvement? Do you find that more crud gets past the (now) smaller backing plate?



PSC, I feel your pain. And I don't think having a rear brake that is capable of locking up if need be is crazy. I've monkeyed with sanding them and even checked the wear limits on the drums thinking my drum may be worn out. One good day of rock crawling and they're glazed again. I don't have a lot of suggestions for improvement but as Sasquatch has said keep the adjustment whisker close, just short of rubbing. The brake blows, but at least it comes in more immediately that way.
 

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Ok. I thought something got lost in translation but I just read it wrong (over and over, for nearly 3 years
) Think I got it straight now..



What he's using is a late model TW125 backing plate and a front TW200 drum.



We Yanks will need to locate another model of Yamaha backing plate of the proper configuration in order to pull it off.



The TW FRONT shoes cross over to the REAR shoes of various years of TTR225's, XT350's and others. If the axle hole is the same diameter as a TW one of them could be potential donors.



My XT350's backing plate is too thick and the alignment groove too shallow, so rule that one out. Anyone got a TTR/XT225?



PSC: I think this will be pretty doable. Stand by. It's something quite a few of us have a fairly urgent need for and between Ronnydog and myself we may come up with a fairly easy swap. With the right backing plate the only irreversible mod will be grinding the stop tab on the swingarm. I kinda doubt there's any way around that.
 

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Hello PSC,



I've seen in this thread (http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/6463-tw225-manuals-help) that you have a little problem with this brake conversion.

-> You have to send big thank you to lizrdbrth <-



OK, the TW125 type 2 does have this brake plate:

3Y6-25321-10-00

-> but this one is not available in the US.



The TW225 does have this brake plate:

3Y6-25321-20-00

-> but this one is also not available in the US.





I've checked the website one of my German Yamaha part resellers.

I've typed in the first digits and I've seen 2 other numbers:

3Y6-25321-00-38 -> is from the SR250 (1980-1982)

3Y6-25321-01-00



Both plates are available in the US.

The price on boats.net is $67.25.



Best regards, Sebastian
 

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Ok. I thought something got lost in translation but I just read it wrong (over and over, for nearly 3 years
) Think I got it straight now..



What he's using is a late model TW125 backing plate and a front TW200 drum.



We Yanks will need to locate another model of Yamaha backing plate of the proper configuration in order to pull it off.



The TW FRONT shoes cross over to the REAR shoes of various years of TTR225's, XT350's and others. If the axle hole is the same diameter as a TW one of them could be potential donors.



My XT350's backing plate is too thick and the alignment groove too shallow, so rule that one out. Anyone got a TTR/XT225?



PSC: I think this will be pretty doable. Stand by. It's something quite a few of us have a fairly urgent need for and between Ronnydog and myself we may come up with a fairly easy swap. With the right backing plate the only irreversible mod will be grinding the stop tab on the swingarm. I kinda doubt there's any way around that.




http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-3Y6-25321-00-38.html?gclid=CIKVmO7unLQCFSmCQgodNB0ANg





$53.80 for 3Y6-25321-00-38 PLATE, BRAKE SHOE



Ronnydog
 

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Thanks again, Mackbig and Mrruim.
 

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For those of you who are interested I've made some progress on the front-to-rear brake conversion. I took a few pics, and some of them will duplicate TeeWee's work on the old forum but I figgered they might disappear at any time.



First a pic to show the difference in diameter between the two. The triangle bolt pattern is the same on both, so to get sense of scale look at the distance from the holes to the drum lining:







This is a rear hub stripped of its spokes, brake drum and sprocket:







This is how I plan to avoid some of the grinding that Teewee had to do. By bolting the stripped hub to the front brake drum I can mark the holes where the spoke heads interfere with the new brake drum, remove the hub and lightly face the areas of interference with a 5/16" drill bit. If you look closely, the drum can be seen through the upper 8 of the 16 spoke holes. Those are the areas we need to clearance slightly in order to clear the spoke heads on my existing wheel, which is still in one piece and on my bike:







Once the drum has been clearanced and I've determined how much (if any) material needs to be removed from the brake tab inside the swingarm it may be close to a bolt-on. I'm trying a backing plate from an XT350 sourced from my pile o' parts. Not sure it will be the best solution but once everything is test fit it will give me a basis when shopping other Yamaha backing plates for the one which requires the least amount of work. If there's no radical surgery required with that backing plate we could be on our way to duplicating TeeWee's conversion.



The spoke flange on the drum itself will eventually be removed as it is on TeeWee's, but removing it isn't absolutely neccessary for the conversion. It just removes some weight and maybe looks a bit better.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Will be watching this closely...
 

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Hang tight. I gotta squeeze this stuff into the wee hours of the morning for now so I can't devote my usual obsessiveness to getting it done. I'm thinking that once it's worked out I may pass around the bare hub to those who wanna use my method and those who aren't messed up about it can simply grind theirs to fit.



If there is brake tab grinding involved there's no going back to stock. This could be a problem for those with two sets of wheels as both rear wheels will need to wear converted drums because the brake tab will be too short to engage the stock drum. That's why I'm making such a fuss over the backing plate. If it's at all possible to do it safely I'd rather deepen the slot in the backing plate than grind the swingarm tab.



I hope someone needs a $weet front rim and $pokes cuz it really hurt my feelings disa$$embling a perfectly good set of wheels. lol. Ju$t preparing you.



I didn't get hurt too bad on the rear wheel. It was a pretty scarred-up beater I'd been saving for the purpose. Once this is done Ronnydog and I have plans involving the hub, a machinist, some billet aluminum and a proper, flyweight rim with an ATV/automotive bead. Your post was timely because it finally got both projects in motion.
 

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Set up to mark the holes. Magnetic welding square used as a drill guide. Probably the only time I'll ever be glad it's steel
:







Holes marked:







Faced off. Not a lot needed here so no need to go deep. Little fuzzy. Sue me:







Test fit with drum torqued down and some old spokes. All swingin' and happy:







Should bolt right up to my "real" wheel. Now on to the backing plate and spacers.
 

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[quote name='lizrdbrth' date='03 January 2013 - 09:49 AM' timestamp='1357235354' post='64543']

Hang tight. I gotta squeeze this stuff into the wee hours of the morning for now so I can't devote my usual obsessiveness to getting it done.









You could work all night!





Ronnydog
 

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I'm just glad I had the hub. My way ultimately is no more elegant than TeeWee's, just took less time.



Grind-and-fit would be just as good. We ain't building no piano here.
 

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Update. Sorta.



More of an illustration of the problem. Sideways pic of the how the stock backing plate engages the swingarm brake tab:







Now for the problem. This is an early XT350 backing plate. It has the correct axle hole and brake shoe diameter, but the slot stands about 9/16" prouder than the stocker and can't be deepened by much because the casting beneath it is pretty much hollow. The slot casting is also too bulky to clear the inside of the swingarm if you shortened the tab. The search goes on. Anyone got a TTR225 or 230?:



 
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