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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to buy a new battery for my TW. I have looked on existing posts, everyone seems to recommend the AGM YTZ7S which requires shims to fit in the battery box. To me that seems like a waste of space. I would rather have a bigger battery if that means more amp hours.

What's the highest possible amp hour battery, at least 120CCA, I can fit in the battery box? I'd like to keep it around 50-75 bucks if possible though can go higher if needed.

My TW is kind of a Frankenbike though I believe the frame and battery box are from '87.
 
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I would suggest the best of both worlds being Lithium Iron Phosphate as in EarthX . The ETX12A is the battery that is suggested ... 135 cold cranking amps, an almost linear discharge rate, lighter, smaller, much easier maintenance, much longer lifespan, made in USA (with imported whatevers), equipped with an internal battery monitoring system/battery charging system that both cuts the battery out before full discharge and also maintains even charge/discharge across all cells during use and charging. I think these might also actually be approved by FAA for small aircraft? Anyway, just a suggestion.



Ohh, BTW, the company never seems to stock them so if you want one go to Battery Mart or something similar online. Hope that helps.
 

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I need to buy a new battery for my TW. I have looked on existing posts, everyone seems to recommend the AGM YTZ7S which requires shims to fit in the battery box. To me that seems like a waste of space. I would rather have a bigger battery if that means more amp hours.

What's the highest possible amp hour battery, at least 120CCA, I can fit in the battery box? I'd like to keep it around 50-75 bucks if possible though can go higher if needed.

My TW is kind of a Frankenbike though I believe the frame and battery box are from '87.
These little batteries (Scorpian YTZ7S) are the best I have had in my TW. Wasted space, you can stuff a small container with some tools in between the space and have extra storage for a few tools. I have had mine for about 2-3 years now with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the feedback though it doesn't really address my question. All the batteries recommended in this thread are pretty low in Amp Hours, the Earth X is 4AH and the Scorpion is 5.5. My real question is, if a small battery is 4 or 5 amp hours, can't I make use of that extra battery box space for more? What I want is to cram the most possible amp hours out of that space that I can get.

Not having a kick starter makes me a little nervous about being stuck in the middle of nowhere with a dead battery. Extra battery capacity means more time to run the starter while trying to troubleshoot a broken bike
 

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Then I am afraid you will have to go with what the bike calls for.

B7C-A 8AH I don't know of anything higher AH wise that will fit in the battery box.

And the B7C-A is not available at as many outlets as the YTZ7S

Also, I don't know if you can find the 7C-A at the 120 CCA's minimum you are looking for.

Most YTZ7S are rated at 130 CCA's and above

Good luck with your search and welcome to the forum.

Marty
 
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There did use to be a deep cycle battery available in the factory size battery. That would probably be the biggest and most powerful battery and it would have the ability to be charged many times even if fully discharged. If you are really worried about it get the Lithium Ion battery and learn to push start the bike just in case.
 

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I recently replaced the battery in one of my TW's. I looked for a higher capacity AGM as well and did not find any that were better than the big heavy expensive stock size battery. So I went with the lIthium Shorai LFX09L2-BS12. It ratings are 9AH and 135 CCA. I have only had it a couple of weeks but so far its working well. Dennis Kirk has them for $103.45 and free shipping.
 

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I recently replaced the battery in one of my TW's. I looked for a higher capacity AGM as well and did not find any that were better than the big heavy expensive stock size battery. So I went with the lIthium Shorai LFX09L2-BS12. It ratings are 9AH and 135 CCA. I have only had it a couple of weeks but so far its working well. Dennis Kirk has them for $103.45 and free shipping.
I am confused about Shorai's ratings; that battery actually seems to spec at 3 AH but then Shorai takes it to "9 AH Equivalent". That's one reason why I went towards the EarthX. Does anyone understand the AH Equivalent thing with them? Thanks.
 

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From the web: "Some lithium battery manufacturers use the term PbEq (lead-acid equivalent) to make it easier for a consumer to choose an equivalent lithium replacement, but it is equivalent only in cranking power (Cranking Amps), not overall capacity (in Amp-hour)."

I think it may have to do with the ability to run lithium batteries down to a much lower charge state without harming the battery. Lead acid's are limited to 50% discharge I think. I am just speculating though. It is way above my pay grade. It may be just smoke and mirrors. :oops:
 

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I have a Shorai I ordered for a Yamaha 1000cc street bike and the first one I ordered the terminals on the wrong side but I keep seeing it on my bench its the right width and height but it's 3/4" wider than OEM TW but man what a power supply that would be for the TW I think it's like ten times the capacity of the tiny Shorai they sell for the TW I never got really serious but even if a guy found an external dual sport battery box and hung it under the rack it's still not nearlt as heavy as the stock flooded battery
 
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thats what I said when I was 27 may I ask your age Inch ?

today even the dang kicker hurts sometimes getting old blows

The one time I ran out f gas and ran my battery to zilch in the woods near Seattle I was grinning ear to ear cuz I borrowed a cup of gas from a generous hunter and I was on top of a giant hill and I thought how lucky am I that I can compression start this baby and be back on the road I even sent the hunter away telling him I had it all under control! (he even asked if I was "sure" lol) Well I started down the hill popped it into second and dropped the clutch and the giant flotation tire did exactly what is supposed to do it floated but never spun an inch so I started bouncing my (at the time) 200lbs on the seat and tried 3rd even 4th then back to first and arrived at the bottom of the hill which turned out to be a gulch with no way out but back up lol, I skidded all the way to the bottom and then I thought of my TW kick starter kit sitting at home in my workshop that I didn't think I needed - today I want a giant Shorai maybe two and I'll mount them on my rack if needed and I'll have a folding solar panel in my tool tube (I saw a guy mount a 12x12" solar -panel under his cycle rack and it charged all the time - I'm in Arizona)
 

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If you take these lithium bike batteries apart they are just a bunch of 18650 or 26500 battery cells soldered together in sets of four then wired in parallel. Same as rechargable power tool battery packs and laptops. Looking at the specs, I'd say the 200$ and up batteries are made from about 12$ worth of battery cells.
I have a couple sitting here that are 2.5 amp each. Just 4 would be ten amp capacity. The dub size battery box could hold up to twelve of the 18650. Which would be 30amps not 4...
Learn to make your own. These 2.5amp cells are genuine Sony and are only about 7$ a piece.
The newer 26500 style can hold up to 4 amps each. 8 of them to a dub battery. Not sure of their price, i haven't built anything with them yet.
The circuit protection boards are available ready made for whatever.
And certain styles can discharge their energy at up to 30amps.
Best place to get genuine cells at wholesale is IMR batteries in Texas. There are different styles of cells designed to discharge at different rates but they can tell you which ones if you tell them what you are building.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the in depth info everyone. I did a little more research and found this battery that is a YTZ7S size, with 6 AH and 130CCA, for only $35. Posting link here in case it may benefit anyone else:


I know it's probably Chinese and will break in a year, but long term I think I'm gonna try that suggestion of building my own. I would love to be that guy that can just build my own bike battery to save a few bucks...
 

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thats what I said when I was 27 may I ask your age Inch ?

today even the dang kicker hurts sometimes getting old blows

The one time I ran out f gas and ran my battery to zilch in the woods near Seattle I was grinning ear to ear cuz I borrowed a cup of gas from a generous hunter and I was on top of a giant hill and I thought how lucky am I that I can compression start this baby and be back on the road I even sent the hunter away telling him I had it all under control! (he even asked if I was "sure" lol) Well I started down the hill popped it into second and dropped the clutch and the giant flotation tire did exactly what is supposed to do it floated but never spun an inch so I started bouncing my (at the time) 200lbs on the seat and tried 3rd even 4th then back to first and arrived at the bottom of the hill which turned out to be a gulch with no way out but back up lol, I skidded all the way to the bottom and then I thought of my TW kick starter kit sitting at home in my workshop that I didn't think I needed - today I want a giant Shorai maybe two and I'll mount them on my rack if needed and I'll have a folding solar panel in my tool tube (I saw a guy mount a 12x12" solar -panel under his cycle rack and it charged all the time - I'm in Arizona)
I’m 31 and I pop started the tdub in 2nd gear on flat ground with about 10 feet of runway. And I had a pulled back muscle at the time. First try in 1st gear did what you said, rear wheel locked up and skidded. Second try, 2nd gear was a piece of cake. It’s why I’m hesitant to get a kicker, seems wholly unnecessary to me. It would be a very unique circumstance where your battery is dead and you have the space to kickstart but not pop start..

I used to pop start my KLR650 in my mid-20s, now THAT was a PITA. I had a kickstarter on the KLR as well and it was even harder to use.
 

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If you're set on using every possible bit of space for a battery, the Odyssey PC310 fits in there. It's very snug, but it fits. Been running it in mine since early 2018.


I would suggest wrapping some nylon webbing/strap around the battery before squeezing it in there to make removal easier.
 

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re bump starting if I rode on the street I'm pretty sure I could always find a way to bump start but I never ride on the road so getting enough traction on the areas I ride is tricky in the desert even hard packed areas seem to have a layer of dust etc that slick enough to make bump starting iffy at best.
It's very common for hunters to spot game and get excited and they run off forgetting to turn off the key which on a TW is the death knell for the stock battery unless they have a kill switch on the headlamp and front running lights which many do.
I love the idea of building a Tdub custom sized battery from raw cells I bet a guy could sell the snot out of a custom built TW battery
 
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