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What Ken said.

So i ordered one of these. First one showed up today soaked in it's own acid... Yay. They are replacing it. But the battery terminals are sideways from what the factory tdub cables use. And it doesn't come with bolts and nuts that fit the weirdly shaped terminals... Did you guys run into this with the ones you ordered?
 

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So i ordered one of these. First one showed up today soaked in it's own acid... Yay. They are replacing it. But the battery terminals are sideways from what the factory tdub cables use. And it doesn't come with bolts and nuts that fit the weirdly shaped terminals... Did you guys run into this with the ones you ordered?
Sorry for the inconvenience this has caused you, MadMav. Batterysharks was just one example of outlets that sell the YTZ7S. I use a 90 degree adapter something similar to this. It also makes hooking up accessories easier and can be passed on to the next battery.




ChromeBattery is another outlet with free shipping and they are quick to ship.


Marty
 

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I turned the cables flat and screwed then from the top. Found an old battery from years back that had the little rectangle nuts still in it. They fit perfect. Now hopefully the replacement shows up undamaged. The rep that did the replacement is saying they are supposed to have the nuts and bolts with them and it must've gotten overlooked and there will be a set with the replacement.
At least i got everything fitted. Foam cut to size and all that.
 

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Some batteries have 4 terminals and support top and side wiring simultaneously. Nice to have options. The versatility of my Antigravity battery eases wiring constraints when adding electrical farkles. Plus, it has a re-start feature. If I drain the battery with one of those new farkles, pushing a button on the battery still allows the bike to start with the button.
 

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Yeah I'm not getting into expensive batteries on this kind of equipment. They suit your purpose just fine. My 17$ battery has a reserve too but it's mounted on the side of the case behind the clutch hub and i don't have to take the seat off to use it.
 

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I like the new feature of these one last start button battery's. Next time I need a battery, I will be considering one of them.
 

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The reserve ones might be ok since you can't accidently drain them to zero and toast 200$ in one shot. But they're not for me. The other weeks electrical breakdown out in the woods with no phone was enough of a lesson for me. One icky kill switch took out the neutral relay, which took out the battery and the Diode. Woulda been pretty upset if that was an expensive lithium grenade that went poof about what? 4 inches from my two favorite parts? Nope I'm too scared. Buck buck buck. Braaawwwwk buck buck buck buGAAAWWWK.
 

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I'm old and tired. I don't want to leave my garage queen out somewhere and I certainly don't want to walk home at my age, so I will be checking into one at some point. It's worth it to me.
 

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You know, it may sound silly but since I've had the re-start ability I've been more aware of my electrics and shut everything down religiously. Funny how that works sometimes. I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy. I put on a reserve starting lever too.
 

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Oddly, since cramming 8Ah worth of Odyssey AGM in mine, adding the kickstart, full conversion to LED, and regularly revving the nuts off it to keep the chargy-whirler spinning nice and fast, I just don't worry about it at all. I'm half convinced it'll jump start a small car after sitting for a couple months.
 

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Oddly, since cramming 8Ah worth of Odyssey AGM in mine, adding the kickstart, full conversion to LED, and regularly revving the nuts off it to keep the chargy-whirler spinning nice and fast, I just don't worry about it at all. I'm half convinced it'll jump start a small car after sitting for a couple months.
When I worked for Yuasa and owned a 2005 TW, I was probably one of the first to ever put a YTZS in place of the YB7C-A (I have hated flooded batteries since starting this industry in 1993. AGM is the only way to go, period)
Anyway, now I work for Odyssey, and am looking at getting my 3rd TW this week. And guess what I am planning on putting in it LOL.
Problem is, we get the PC310 from the UK, and they have been having supply chain issues for over 9 months on this battery. You can not buy one right now. Good thing I have one sitting around my garage :)
 

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When I worked for Yuasa and owned a 2005 TW, I was probably one of the first to ever put a YTZS in place of the YB7C-A (I have hated flooded batteries since starting this industry in 1993. AGM is the only way to go, period)
Anyway, now I work for Odyssey, and am looking at getting my 3rd TW this week. And guess what I am planning on putting in it LOL.
Problem is, we get the PC310 from the UK, and they have been having supply chain issues for over 9 months on this battery. You can not buy one right now. Good thing I have one sitting around my garage :)
Fair warning, it's a tight fit. I recommend wrapping something around it if you ever want to get it out. I used the extra nylon webbing from the ratchet strap I cut short to strap the bikes to the bike lift/jack. Other than being a bit snug, I've had zero problems with mine. I keep it on a tender during the winter (I use CTEK on most everything for the automatic long-term maintenance mode). I only use the kick starter when I want to look cool.

+1 on AGM being the good stuff. Lithium (even the LiFe/iron stuff) is still a bit too temperamental for the rugged/reliable role but great for weight savings, and flooded just sucks in general. I used to be an Optima fan, but have slowly been migrating everything over to Odyssey.
 

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If you take these lithium bike batteries apart they are just a bunch of 18650 or 26500 battery cells soldered together in sets of four then wired in parallel. Same as rechargable power tool battery packs and laptops. Looking at the specs, I'd say the 200$ and up batteries are made from about 12$ worth of battery cells.
I have a couple sitting here that are 2.5 amp each. Just 4 would be ten amp capacity. The dub size battery box could hold up to twelve of the 18650. Which would be 30amps not 4...
Learn to make your own. These 2.5amp cells are genuine Sony and are only about 7$ a piece.
The newer 26500 style can hold up to 4 amps each. 8 of them to a dub battery. Not sure of their price, i haven't built anything with them yet.
The circuit protection boards are available ready made for whatever.
And certain styles can discharge their energy at up to 30amps.
Best place to get genuine cells at wholesale is IMR batteries in Texas. There are different styles of cells designed to discharge at different rates but they can tell you which ones if you tell them what you are building.
you know thats interesting a guy or gal could just build a TW battery to the exact size of the battery box and have a pretty darn stout power source
 

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Even without a kickstarter you absolutely never have to worry about a dead battery with this bike because it is laughably easy to pop start.

Sit on bike
Put in 2nd gear
Clutch in
Roll bike forward to 5mph
Dump clutch

Your bike is now running.
That depends on how deep the mud field is........Been there........no fun
 
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