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bike locked up...where to start?

2372 Views 18 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  admiral
"Broke" the bike tonight... will start tearing it down tomorrow but wanted to see if anyone has any pointers on where to start, and/or tips and tricks to make the next few days of my life a little easier.

I am not sure if the transmission is locked up or the engine, but no need to get ahead of myself.

Was going downhill about 20-25mph, bike quit and rear tire locked up. All very sudden, no warning. Kickstarter moves a little, but not sure if this is just "taking up play" in the mechanism, or how it even works really. Seems locked up pretty solid so could not start bike.

Had the flywheel off on Sunday night, so I started by laying the bike over on its side and removing left side case. Nothing visibly amiss. Starter gears all turn, but crank will only turn approx. 15degrees. Removed cam cover, nothing visibly amiss. Same 15degrees of rotation as the crank. Removed cam chain tensioner, managed to jump teeth on chain by turning crank. This leads me to believe that piston/crank are moving freely.

Managed to get the bike shifted into neutral at some point, but after that it would no longer shift at all. This makes me think transmission is culprit. Bike rolls around fine in neutral.

Any thoughts? Where would you start if you found yourself in the same position? (Aside from trucking the bike home for the second time in a week)

Let me know if you have questions for clarification, these might not be all the details just throwing the info out to get some expertise
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1 - 3 of 19 Posts
If it was mine I'd start taking it apart. Resoning is you've got to go through the top end to reach the trans, anyway.
Rake the stall floor into a gentle incline so that water runs off the edge. Try to eliminate any dips and swales where water could collect. Lay down some Viscreen, then some 1/2-inch CDX for a firm floor. Makes all the difference. The plywood can be hung from nails when not needed and will always be there when needed.

The trans is between the engine case halves. Before the case is split the cylinder and head must be removed.

Before diving in, remove and inspect under both side covers for obvious problems. It is easier to remove the clutch and flywheel BEFORE taking the chain loose to remove the engine.

Get thyself to a sympathetic friend with a ream of paper and print the shop manual and supplement. No friends? Try a public computer, thumbdrive, and a print shop. Manuals are important tools when it comes to maintenance and repairs--they will return their expense in money and aggravation saved many times over.
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Anythinf siezed will not rotate at all. I expect your 15* is taking up loose tolerances somewhere.
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