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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
To begin, yes I searched the forum, to no avail. Perhaps I haven't figured the right sequence of words...

The bike has a hop, that is speed related. I don't notice it below 35, and it clears up after 45. I could cruse at 65 all day, and I do not sense any hop. My thoughts are that my tires are out of balance. It becomes worse in any kind of lean. I purchased the bike with under 1000 miles and have put about 5000 miles on the bike in the year since. I tried the normal suggestions posted elsewhere. I have verified the steering head/bearings are good. I checked the forks, replaced the oil, and set them up as per instructions found on the site. I also put Ride-on in the tires, as per the instructions from the manufacturer. Still bounces. So I followed other advice about balancing the tires, and I think it's the ride-on, but I can't find a "heavy" spot. It "moves" every time I put the tape on the tire... I still have the original rubber, and it is in good shape. If it matters the bike is a 2010 and almost all of my riding is street. I live in a No Fun state, and offloading anywhere near me is strictly verboten!

Anyway, at this point I am thinking of purchasing a new front tire. I'm also wondering if new fork springs are in order. I'm not a heavy guy, 165 with a full stomach, so I can't imagine I want heavier springs. So any advice? Like "it's the tire," or "its just the way the bike is, get used to it". Or...

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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It does sound like a tire problem or a balance problem. I would take the wheel off and take it to a motorcycle shop and have them check the balance. You tried Ride-On, which I use myself and have been very pleased with. If it checks out to be out of round or off balance, then you know what to do after that. Either they can balance it and all will be fine or you need a new tire most likely. Try a Shinko 244 Golden Boy for a better front tire and use the Ride-On again. Please keep us posted. I don't think it is the springs and with your weight, they are probably fine and don't need to be changed.

*if there are balance weights now on the bike's front tire, take them all off and see if the Ride-On will do it's job. Otherwise, yank the tire and rim off and take it to the shop to be checked out.
 

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Good advice ^^^^ No doubt they will check the spokes to make sure they are tight, and that the wheel is true. I've never heard of it on a motorcycle tire, but I've seen car tires that bounced because of an internal separation or flaw in the tire's construction.
 

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I've got 4000 miles on my front tire and the knobs are worn very unevenly. I consider my tire about totally whipped with 4000 miles on it. You have even more miles than mine. I'm thinking a new tire should fix you right up.
 

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I've got 4000 miles on my front tire and the knobs are worn very unevenly. I consider my tire about totally whipped with 4000 miles on it. You have even more miles than mine. I'm thinking a new tire should fix you right up.
Agreed !! On my bike and my wife's the front tire wore so bad by 5,000 miles it would make the bars vibrate so bad it made my hands feel funny..... Put new tires on and that solved the problem.. I'll never put the front stock tire back on again.. OMM.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I hear you all saying it is the tire. I was thinking of getting the golden boy as recommended. It seems no one has anything but good to say about that option and I like the knobby look even though my riding is mostly street.

So you know, it had the bounce since I got the bike. It just seems worse of late, or perhaps I'm just getting sick of it. It is good to know (sort of) that this is not normal. You all gave some good advice. I hadn't thought about the wheel not being true, so I will take a look at that as well.

I went and looked closer at the tire, and did notice that the "back" of the knobbie, is worn closer than the front, if that means anything, and for what it's worth, there are no wheel weights on the front wheel. There were some on the back but I took them off when I added the Ride-on.

Thanks again for the advice, and I will keep you posted.
 

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Lift the front of the bike and spin the wheel, can you see any flat spots or is it out of round?
 

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I dont see how you could balaance it if you have ride on in the tube? Its always moving. My first sr244 was out of round just a little and it would hop up and down just a little. I forget what speed it was the worst
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I dont see how you could balaance it if you have ride on in the tube? Its always moving. My first sr244 was out of round just a little and it would hop up and down just a little. I forget what speed it was the worst
That is exactly what I thought; that once you put Ride-on in there you could not balance it the normal way, but I tried anyway...

I will check for out of round as well.

What I still don't understand is why it goes away over 45mph. Is it possible that there is something harmonic about it?
 

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I dont see how you could balaance it if you have ride on in the tube? Its always moving. My first sr244 was out of round just a little and it would hop up and down just a little. I forget what speed it was the worst
I balanced mine before I put ride on in.
 

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Crazy timing with this thread-

I'm fighting the exact same issue as you.

30/35 - 45 mph it shows up, above and below its fine.

I just recently put a set of Shinko SR428's on, but since I had just picked up the bike I'm not sure if it has always had the issue. I took of the stock TW knobbies but may try putting them back on soon to see if it comes/goes gets worse.

I have a tire changer and do my own static balancing so I know the balance is good, but I do see the rims aren't perfectly true. I don't have a ton of experience adjusting spoked wheels and know folks more accustomed to it can get it done very quickly.

I don't feel like its the rims though because of how it comes in at 30-35 and goes at 45. If the rims were that big of an issue you'd expect it to get worse. It also although is similar to 'bumps' in the road you don't get that same feel, its more like the front end is oscillating up and down.

I've done my front wheel bearings twice now (my inner spacer was about .5mm longer than the hub, so the bearings weren't spinning freely), they're good, front balance is good, new rear wheel bearings, balance is good there too.

I added .5oz of fork oil and pre-loaded the forks 7mm, so i may try taking out the pre-load to see if that helps.

However I can feel a clear notchy-ness in the stem bearings. So thats my next effort to see if that helps, as it certainly won't hurt.

So new stem bearings, then swap the TW knobbies back on, then look at truing the wheels.

I haven't investigated the swingarm bearings yet either, but I see that as a possibility too.

also thinking of asking one of the local members if we could swap wheels for a short ride. Should be definitive on where the issue lies.
 

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If your tire came from the factory with the standard wheel weights and what the factory claimed as balanced, this could be your problem. Just because the tire was balanced when new does not take into consideration wear along the way or the possibility of tossing a weight. If for some reason the tire went out of balance and as you describe became bouncy then the chances are it is unevenly worn in a particular spot that might not be seen by the naked eye. Neither Ride On or weight balancing can fix a tire with a flat spot.

This is the exact reason why I swear by Ride On in brand new tires. As the tire wears the ride on always maintains the correct balance point so your tires don't develope flat spots. Fixed weights can't do that. Get a new tire and the Shinko is an excellent choice. If your tube is good and has around 7-8 ounces of Ride On in it already then go ride and be happy with smooth running and worry free for the life of the tire.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Some more information for anyone who is following, or has the same problem. I checked the wheel for true, and it looks perfect, at least at the rim. I can see a dip where the weld is, in the inside of the rim, but it is perfect where the bead would sit and at the edge. So, no high spot, and no side to side change. So the wheel is probably fine.

I'm going to order a new tire, and see if that helps. When I get it and mount it I will let you all know if that resolved the issue.

As for the existing tube with Ride-on in it, GaryL, that was my next question, if I needed to get a tube and another bottle of Ride-on. Thanks, I will re-use my tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Gamorg02, why do you think that the swing arm bearings would cause this? Because you're running out of ideas, or would it cause that kind of hop? Mine really feels like it is only in the front end.
 

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For you younger guys In the old days we had wheel / tire trueing machine at the tire shops . with the moto " Once in a BLUE MOON you Will Find A ROUND TIRE" It was a tire Lath that cut off rubber and trued the tire . Lots of rubber on the ground BUT THEY saiod it lasted longer . Got a knobby china tire , or was it Russian, That was so far out of round it wasn't even good for my dirt bike . That's was in the i960s
 

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I wish that more shops would offer tire trueing. It's the ultimate way to balance a tire. Yes, you lose rubber, but you'll get better mileage, not to mention stability with this process. I know it sounds counter productive, but it works.
 

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Some more information for anyone who is following, or has the same problem. I checked the wheel for true, and it looks perfect, at least at the rim. I can see a dip where the weld is, in the inside of the rim, but it is perfect where the bead would sit and at the edge. So, no high spot, and no side to side change. So the wheel is probably fine.

I'm going to order a new tire, and see if that helps. When I get it and mount it I will let you all know if that resolved the issue.

As for the existing tube with Ride-on in it, GaryL, that was my next question, if I needed to get a tube and another bottle of Ride-on. Thanks, I will re-use my tube.
If your tube was old I would say replace it and add new Ride On. 4 years old should be fine as long as it does not get pinched in the swap process.

I will bet if you raised the front wheel off the ground and found the highest spot in the rubber tread where it just barely touches the ground, a spin while watching the light under the tire will show where the hop originates from. If you had the old spoke weights on the wheel and can still see where they were I will bet this is where the most light will show. I see a lot of knobbie tires where the center knobs show the leading edge wearing slower than the following edge, kind of slanted toward the rear if you look from the sides. I suspect this is because there is no drag while rolling forward but when braking the drag is against the rear of each knob. The fix for this on an otherwise good tire is to flip it around which requires removal and reversing the direction.

On my last older car that had no anti lock brakes I bought a new set of 4 Blizzak snow tires just before the snows arrived. On the way home from the tire shop I crested a hill and right in front of me all over the road were 6 deer. I locked up all 4 wheels and skidded to a haunt leaving about 40 feet of black lines on the pavement. Missed all the deer but my brand new Blizzak tires had flat spots and it felt like I was ridding on a rumble strip all winter long.

GaryL
 

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Missed all the deer but my brand new Blizzak tires had flat spots and it felt like I was ridding on a rumble strip all winter long.
Happened to me on my Cushman . not as bad as you as it was only one tire

At times I hate those GIANT ANTLERED RATS too
 

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Some more information for anyone who is following, or has the same problem. I checked the wheel for true, and it looks perfect, at least at the rim. I can see a dip where the weld is, in the inside of the rim, but it is perfect where the bead would sit and at the edge. So, no high spot, and no side to side change. So the wheel is probably fine.

I'm going to order a new tire, and see if that helps. When I get it and mount it I will let you all know if that resolved the issue.

As for the existing tube with Ride-on in it, GaryL, that was my next question, if I needed to get a tube and another bottle of Ride-on. Thanks, I will re-use my tube.
I checked my front as well, at most I have 1.5mm radial runout, less than that axial. not sure what the spec is but i think its 2mm. Its a visible runout but its not bad, no obvious digs or whatnot. I've taken dirtbikes with knobbies on the street with dings in the rims and such and not felt feedback like this as well, (unbalanced and with rim locks!)

Gamorg02, why do you think that the swing arm bearings would cause this? Because you're running out of ideas, or would it cause that kind of hop? Mine really feels like it is only in the front end.
mostly yea, running out of options. I know off-balance rear can cause issues that feel like the front.

I did my steering stem bearings today while chasing a 3 year old around, hah. they were cake compared to the honda 919 I did last weekend, ugh. the allballs kit is interesting though as they shove the roller tappered bearings in not a lot of room to work. anyways, it didn't help the issue but the steering feels a LOT better. I had noticable 'spots' in the steering once the wheel was off the ground so they were due.

For you younger guys In the old days we had wheel / tire trueing machine at the tire shops . with the moto " Once in a BLUE MOON you Will Find A ROUND TIRE" It was a tire Lath that cut off rubber and trued the tire . Lots of rubber on the ground BUT THEY saiod it lasted longer . Got a knobby china tire , or was it Russian, That was so far out of round it wasn't even good for my dirt bike . That's was in the i960s
hmm. interesting never heard of it. My parents were barely alive in the 60s so i'm probably one of those young guys!
 
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