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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
thanks for the info Gully thats a much beefier pie than I imagined

I have some on order from Partzilla but I'm some were in that 200 day backlog lol

I think I need to get a new part in my hands and I'll let my machinist use that as a template and I can test the first few on my hubs then we will know how to cut and prep the rest
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Bodi, your sidehill concern is valid. The original more square profile Duro required me to take more corrective leaning into the hill especially when traversing side hills on late season icy snow compared to other ATV and stock rear tires.
I got used to it thought, and perhaps the sharper shoulder dug in better when up on edge. However I feel the DuroV2 is easier to ride care free. Less concern too when leaned over on tight twisty tarmac.
My biggest issue with the original Duro was a tendency when in deeper tracks made by conventional narrow tired dirt bikes for the Duro sidewalls to engage the rut margins and recoil off contributing to unintentional oscillations from one side of rut to the other. A drunken sailor comes to mind. :)
The more rounded profile Duro V2 tracks straighter in ruts. An all round fairly care free replacement for the stock TrailWing, especially when run tubeless with a tire sealant/balancer inside for flats...leave spoons, patches and spare tubes behind and just enjoy the ride. When you get back home and notice a penetrating nail then no big deal, you are safely back home. Removing nail then becomes elective...riding is much more fun than breaking a bead trailside.
Duro was like soviet tractor babushka, " I make traction! Thats all I do Comrade, but I do it rather well"
ITP Terracross was more like a dancing Bolshoi ballerina capable of breaking traction and sliding around smooth hard packed corners. Playfull comes to mind. Yet still pretty good in sand and snow, here is terrain conditions where the stock tire would fail but either Duro would likely hook up a bit better.

it's hard to beat the look of the Duro I have new old style and new style in 14" sitting here but now I doubt I'll use them
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
re the inner bearing spacer we also need to know if the Bradley hub has the exact same bearing mounts (ie spacing) as the OEM wheel hub otherwise the spacer tube will need to be made to fit the Bradley hubs

Also I'm wondering what holds the spacer tube centered when we remove the axle ? Is it just the tension between the inner bearing races holding it in place?

then we must need the axle in place while pressing in the last wheel bearing to properly align the spacer tube
 

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Is there wiggle before the nuts are tightened?
should be almost no wiggle. The oem spacer has the washer in the center of it so it kind of lines up with the bearings holes. This allows the axle bolt to be taken on and off without the spacer moving out of place. These aftermarket hubs do not have the same inside diameter as the oem hubs and the center washer does not fit. Some sort of washer should be put at the center of the spacer to act as an oem one. The spacer could get knocked out of alignment when the axle bolt is next removed making it hard to get the axle bolt back in. I pressed the bearings in my hub right against the inner bearing surfaces and have not had the spacer move.
If need be, use a deep socket set at the brake hub and bearing on the right side to keep the spacer lined up when installing the axle with a loose spacer.
Note: Grease up the axle before installing so it does not rust to the spacer and bearings.
 

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re the inner bearing spacer we also need to know if the Bradley hub has the exact same bearing mounts (ie spacing) as the OEM wheel hub otherwise the spacer tube will need to be made to fit the Bradley hubs

Also I'm wondering what holds the spacer tube centered when we remove the axle ? Is it just the tension between the inner bearing races holding it in place?

then we must need the axle in place while pressing in the last wheel bearing to properly align the spacer tube

I used the axle bolt to align the spacer to the bearings when I put my stufidmotard hub together. Same principle with any hub. Pressed them together so they touch firmly. Is a bit tricky because the bearing is pressed by the outer race on installation. It is a feel thing so as not to put much side pressure on the inner races. Might be better to make a center washer like the oem has on the spacer and then one can put the right bearing on so it just barely touches the spacer.

I also recommend installing the 2 left bearings first. Then the spacer and right bearing. This better insures that the brake plate fits properly without hitting the brake hub.

Here are a couple of drawings with a pattern for the center spacer centering ring.

x
Office supplies Cylinder Font Tints and shades Titanium
Rim Font Circle Logo Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Here are a couple of drawings with a pattern for the center spacer centering ring.

x View attachment 230997 View attachment 230998
very interesting I had no idea

might two washers better or am I over thinking

I can see why US Yamaha suppliers rarely would stock this part

I think the answer will be buying a length of DOM tube and then perhaps a larger size DOM tube to act as a sleeve vs using the washers for a spacer
 

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very interesting I had no idea

might two washers better or am I over thinking

I can see why US Yamaha suppliers rarely would stock this part

I think the answer will be buying a length of DOM tube and then perhaps a larger size DOM tube to act as a sleeve vs using the washers for a spacer
It is mportant to only use one washer and put it in the middle. The spacer must be pried slightly off center so a punch can be used to knock out the brake side bearing when removing it first. Then take out the spacer and knock out the double bearings.
2 washers traps the spacer.
 

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OW124, the wiggle query was in reference to the new hub and if there was slop around the lugs before the nuts are tightened.

PL, I thought of double washers too because it would make for better alignment upon reassembling but someone on here, maybe it was Oldworld124, pointed out it would make disassembly very difficult using a screwdriver/punch to drive out the opposite bearing. That method depends on a slight misalignment between the spacer and bearing to find purchase on the bearing.

Though dual spacer washers might not be an issue with a blind bearing puller.
 

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Yeah, I was thinking PVC also.

I wish the seller would just include a solution and charge whatever it is worth.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
Yes pay an extra $25 dollars and your hub/wheel/tire combo arrives ready to go.
Complete with spacer and seals........
This should be easy for a Fab shop.....
mike from NC
 

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My Bradley rear wheel kits and (2) of the rear hub kits arrived today packed well and in good shape

I like the tire as far as clearance on a stock TW swingarm I think the 25" x 8" is a good choice and yes it's not DOT compliant for street use but an LEO would have to be way up your tailpipe to be beefing you over a non DOT tire on a cute lil harmless TW lol

Welds are decent not aerospace grade but certainly good fab shop grade and will do the job

Hub is flame or plasma cut and not particularly polished or refined but no sharp or rough edges I am satisfied for what it is but some polishing and painting or other coating and these could be very pretty parts

As I had surmised from pics there is no hub pilot and the tabs on the hub DO NOT fit into any such recess in the rims as one person suggested (think of Ski Pros signature) BUT I will say the rims are good to high quality and are thicker steel than my Kawasaki ATV so I do think the set up is sufficiently sturdy for the job at hand

Overall I'm giving the Bradley Mountain Goat Hub system a preliminary 9 out of 10 and the only reason for a 1 point from perfect deduction is basically cosmetic but I think the product is excellent

I have only got to the unboxing stage my spacers and seals are on order so I cannot do an install yet
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HOw
My Bradley rear wheel kits and (2) of the rear hub kits arrived today packed well and in good shape

I like the tire as far as clearance on a stock TW swingarm I think the 25" x 8" is a good choice and yes it's not DOT compliant for street use but an LEO would have to be way up your tailpipe to be beefing you over a non DOT tire on a cute lil harmless TW lol

Welds are decent not aerospace grade but certainly good fab shop grade and will do the job

Hub is flame or plasma cut and not particularly polished or refined but no sharp or rough edges I am satisfied for what it is but some polishing and painting or other coating and these could be very pretty parts

As I had surmised from pics there is no hub pilot and the tabs on the hub DO NOT fit into any such recess in the rims as one person suggested (think of Ski Pros signature) BUT I will say the rims are good to high quality and are thicker steel than my Kawasaki ATV so I do think the set up is sufficiently sturdy for the job at hand

Overall I'm giving the Bradley Mountain Goat Hub system a preliminary 9 out of 10 and the only reason for a 1 point from perfect deduction is basically cosmetic but I think the product is excellent

I have only got to the unboxing stage my spacers and seals are on order so I cannot do an install yet
View attachment 230927
View attachment 230928
View attachment 230929
View attachment 230930
View attachment 230931
View attachment 230932
View attachment 230933
Curious how much that setup cost? I fabricated my own, and really enjoyed the project
 

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Has anyone found a place that has the bearing spacer in stock ?
Yeah that was my issue. I ended up cannibalizing that spacer from my other "parts" bike. On a side note, I discovered my old bike had a drilled end on the axle bolt to use a castle nut & cotter pin. I prefer that vs the new style locking nut, so now my '20 TW has '87 parts on it.

Thanks for the review. I'm going to get one, but it's not a priority now. I agree with the addition of hub centric tabs welded onto the adapter.
 

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1991 TW200, 2017 TW200, 2022 Indian Super Chief, 1979 Goldwing w/ Moline sidecar, 1975 BMW R90
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^^^ ITP Delta Steel Wheel 1422320014B (14” wheel) or 1225579014 (12” wheel). I think Partzilla has best price right now.

Edit: updated info
 
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