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I've driven it 50 miles with the clutch lever return spring not properly installed. I read the post about that issue, and decided to check my spring. Sure enough, it wasn't over the arm. I fixed it, but are there any other implications to having that issue? I am paranoid since its my new bike, and I love it. Is there a chance that driving it like that could have caused damage? Is there anything else that doesn't typically get done right when the dealer assembles the bike?
 

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It's fine. Mine was ridden 3037 miles with the spring unhooked. It just makes your clutch feel a little mushy. Most dealers do a good job, but the bikes come from the factory with very little grease. The first thing I do when I get a new bike is check everything, and grease everything. It may sound extreme, but a few hours spent early on can save a lot of time down the road. Upgrade to an o-ring chain as soon as you can.
 

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My handlebar bolts came loose the first ride I took after picking it up from the dealer. The mirror locknuts were also hand tight.

You also might want to take the screw out of the bottom of the muffler that holds the spark arrestor on, antiseize it and reinstall it. Or just replace it with a stainless allen bolt with some goo on it.
 

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Are there any photo threads for this spring problem?.....seeing it is better than reading it(position of something/might misunderstand someone?).My clutch seems alittle "funky"...I'ne adjusted it etc. but it seems not to be engaging(letting out the lever...away from the handlebar)crisply??....if that occurrs(crisply) on this make/model of machine?. TIA
 

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Are there any photo threads for this spring problem?.....seeing it is better than reading it(position of something/might misunderstand someone?).My clutch seems alittle "funky"...I'ne adjusted it etc. but it seems not to be engaging(letting out the lever...away from the handlebar)crisply??....if that occurrs(crisply) on this make/model of machine?. TIA


Right Here
 

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just checked mine and it was not hooked up properly. dealers are definetly not doing their job assembling these bikes
 

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THANK YOU rainman!...I'll check mine tonight when I get out of this gulag(work). If the spring is set correctly on my bike,what should I "check" next?...I've adjusted the clutch lever several times and just can't seem to get the clutch to release until it is at the VERY end of the lever "stroke"???. TIA
 

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THANK YOU rainman!...I'll check mine tonight when I get out of this gulag(work). If the spring is set correctly on my bike,what should I "check" next?...I've adjusted the clutch lever several times and just can't seem to get the clutch to release until it is at the VERY end of the lever "stroke"???. TIA




I've adjusted every adjustment point on my clutch and it still engages at the very end of my lever. I got used to it and now it works for me. My Dad's TW engages about halfway through releasing the lever.



Theres several variables: an old and worn clutch cable, the free-play screw at the lever, the adjustment nuts on the cable itself next to the motor, a worn clutch spring (the one that the cable attaches to on the top of the motor), the clutch plates themselves, and the "rod" that actuates the clutch. The "rod" is what your clutch spring is attached to. This rod must be point to a hash mark on the motor. The only way to adjust this rod is to pull the clutch (right) side cover off.
 

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I've adjusted every adjustment point on my clutch and it still engages at the very end of my lever. I got used to it and now it works for me. My Dad's TW engages about halfway through releasing the lever.



Theres several variables: an old and worn clutch cable, the free-play screw at the lever, the adjustment nuts on the cable itself next to the motor, a worn clutch spring (the one that the cable attaches to on the top of the motor), the clutch plates themselves, and the "rod" that actuates the clutch. The "rod" is what your clutch spring is attached to. This rod must be point to a hash mark on the motor. The only way to adjust this rod is to pull the clutch (right) side cover off.


Thanks for your post Rainman, it came just in time for me as I was worried that I had done something wrong during reassembly. Mine too engages very near the end of letting the lever out. I guess I had gotten use to it and didn't notice it until I put my TW back together a couple of weeks ago. When I went for a test ride, it seemed really odd, but the more I think about it, it was like this before I took the bike apart. I have only adjusted the free play screw at the lever, but nothing else. If it stays like this I'm ok as the clutch is not slipping.
 

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News FLASH!!!.............late last night I found the return spring was not assembled properly......spring arm not OVER the return plate.It was just sitting there,lookin at me.....Yamaha ,REALLY needs to re-train their folks on this!!!!!.Didn't get to test ride it today,hopefully there will be an improvement in shifting!!!.
 

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Amazing! I picked up my new 2011 today and thought the clutch wasn't right. Figured it was just "new" and needed to break in. Checked the return spring and viola, it is correct now.



Thanks for the info.
 

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Amazing! I picked up my new 2011 today and thought the clutch wasn't right. Figured it was just "new" and needed to break in. Checked the return spring and viola, it is correct now.



Thanks for the info


Glad to hear you checked the spring.....much better now,I bet!.
 

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Son of a B*)(#$%. I have never noticed anything wrong with my clutch but I decided to check the spring this morning.

The very tip of the hook was hung on the very edge of the lever. So I had extra spring action "I guess" instead of

not enough. I can't believe that it never slipped off the lever. I barely touched it with the pliers and it popped right on.

Lever still feels the same but the next ride will tell.



Brad
 

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Folks with new bikes under warranty need to return the bike to the dealers for repairs. Take a picture of a correctly installed spring with you. I expect there is nothing in the dealer prep manual about checking the clutch springs. I doubt very many dealers have anyone on staff that actually ever rode a TW, so most dealers really have no experience with the model. If the dealer has to go through the hassle of dealing with dissatisfied customers over something so minor several times, the dealer will add that step to the prep. Yamaha is no more responsive to customer complaints than any other OEM manufacturer.
 

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Folks with new bikes under warranty need to return the bike to the dealers for repairs. Take a picture of a correctly installed spring with you. I expect there is nothing in the dealer prep manual about checking the clutch springs. I doubt very many dealers have anyone on staff that actually ever rode a TW, so most dealers really have no experience with the model. If the dealer has to go through the hassle of dealing with dissatisfied customers over something so minor several times, the dealer will add that step to the prep. Yamaha is no more responsive to customer complaints than any other OEM manufacturer.
 

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So what exactly is the proper free play adjustment? The user manual says it should be 10 - 15 mm but the service manual says only 2 - 3 mm. Big difference. Anyone know which is correct?



Thanks.
 

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So what exactly is the proper free play adjustment? The user manual says it should be 10 - 15 mm but the service manual says only 2 - 3 mm. Big difference. Anyone know which is correct?



Thanks.


10-15mm at the end of the lever (ball end), this probably equates to 2-3mm at the perch end, that is the gap between lever and perch.

It's a bit difficult to explain so just go for 10-15mm at the ball end of the lever.
 

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as long as there is some wiggle without pulling the cable, it's good. Too much wiggle results in a dragging clutch which makes shifting difficult, especially at a stop.
 

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Ah. Got it. I just looked at both guides again and that's exactly it. The measurements are taken at different points. I had zero play (and the return spring wassn't connected properly either) so I'll adjust both accordingly.



Thanks.
 
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