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Discussion Starter #1
I have found a couple of broken spokes on my rear wheel. Even with that the wheel seems to spin true. No up and down or side to side movement. So my plan is to replace all the spokes. Figure I'll start with the broken ones an go from there one spoke at a time. I've never had to do this before. Anything I should know? Anything to watch out for?
 

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A couple of things to be aware of:

- You can't buy individual spokes from Yamaha, they only sell complete sets.
- There are at least 2 different lengths of spokes on the rear wheel, depending on whether are on the sprocket side or the brake side. There may also be different angles on the head ends (I can't confirm this since I have never seen a set of new spokes).
- I have given away a bunch of my used spokes, but may have few left if you let me know which ones you need.
- Lacing and truing a wheel is a skill. The only time that I have tried it is with a bicycle wheel which turned out looking like a potato chip :(.

I hope this helps,

Brian
 

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I have total faith in your abilities.
+1
This was my first ever attempt at rebuilding a wheel. My advice is to get a stand off eBay, they're not too expensive, and watch plenty of YouTube videos on 'how to'
Not strictly necessary but I did buy a proper spoke torque wrench off Amazon: BGS 8511*Torque Spoke Key, Interchangeable Heads,*Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009YTGYOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_c.JADbWN8CM9E
(please ignore all the crap in the background )
 

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This was my first ever attempt at rebuilding a wheel. My advice is to get a stand off eBay, they're not too expensive, and watch plenty of YouTube videos on 'how to'
Something I've found from even name brand ones is they are mostly Chinese made and the collars are just a hair bigger inner diameter than the rod which can throw you off and have you chasing a problem that doesn't exist. If you notice any free play (even a very small amount) between the cone shaped collars that go into the bearings and the rod, go to a machine shop and ask them to make you a rod to fit the collars, or ream the collars to fit a rod they have that is close. Only costs a few bucks most places. The BikeMaster brand one I bought had this issue and it frustrated me to no end until I figured out what was going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Spokes are on the wheel. Toughest part was getting the tire off the wheel. All in all it went well. Bent a few of the old ones trying to unscrew the nipple. Broke one more. The wheel seems to be good laterally. But also seems to have a bit of horizontal run out. Not a lot. But it's there. Will mount the wheel on the bike and try to adjust it a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got the wheel as close as I could. Not perfect, but damn close. Had it set up on a pair of jack stands in the kitchen. After all these years the wife doesn't even bat an eye when I do this stuff. So I took it out and mounted the tire. Set it back up on the stands and balanced it. Mounted the wheel back on the bike with the new 47 tooth sprocket. Got the new DID o-ring chain installed. Today I took it for a good hour test ride. Included a short run on an expressway. Got it up to 55mph. Still a buzzy run. But definitely better. Will I like it in the long run? Time will tell. But I think I got the wheel itself right. No shake or new vibration. I am happy with the outcome and would not hesitate to respoke another wheel if I had to.
 
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