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Discussion Starter #1
Hi y'all,

I'm kicken around the idea of doing a cam upgrade on my '03. Web Cam list only one, and it's fairly mild. My very well maintained TW only has 2,800 miles. Why do I need new valve springs?

BTW: I'm glad my wife wasn't looking on as I did the Google for Web Cam. OMG; what's the world up to; or rather down to?

Larry
 

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I have read on other forums about this cam (40A grind) being used with the stock springs, cup and retainers with no issues, dont have one yet but I will be getting one before the end of this summer and doing a plug and play install without the "beehive" springs.



Example from the old forum!



http://tw200forum.com/forums/96872/ShowPost.aspx



Please post detailed review if you go this route!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have read on other forums about this cam (40A grind) being used with the stock springs, cup and retainers with no issues, dont have one yet but I will be getting one before the end of this summer and doing a plug and play install without the "beehive" springs.



Example from the old forum!



http://tw200forum.com/forums/96872/ShowPost.aspx



Please post detailed review if you go this route!!! :D


Thanks Hoogie, i'ld read that thread. I was checking to see if anything new had developed; so I started this new thread. Like you, I was planning a plug and play. I would think that the stock springs and chain would be good for well over 10K miles if good maintainance has been done, and the valve springs should handle the slight change without a hiccough.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
PS: I think timing changes are best left to the two stroke world where a ten degree change makes all the difference in the world, and done with a simple retainer key mod.
 

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That was my review. I had it off by one tooth when I first installed it but corrected that. I was forgetting what mark to use on the flywheel for TDC. I should've done the screwdriver-down-the-spark-plug-hole trick but at the time I didn't and just screwed up. Again, it was corrected before I started putting miles on it. I never had to dig into it again. Just kept an eye on my valves (as we have to do with the stock cam).



Either way, I was impressed with the cam for the cost involved. It won't turn it into a 400cc but it did help and I'd recommend it.



At the time, Web Cam had only RECOMMENDED valve springs. They never stated it was REQUIRED. I went well over 1000 miles with the stock springs...not exactly long term but not short term either. The perception of a cam upgrade is that it's a highly modified upgrade and I don't agree with that for that specific grind. It's 0.030" more lift but considerably more duration and that's where it shines. You can use XT/TTR 225 cam options from Web Cam for the TW, there are 2 additional cam options with more lift and more duration.



Superdave also did the same cam: http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/353-performance-cams/page__view__findpost__p__3537.



TeeWee did too with grind 89: http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/1344-tw-dyno-test/



TeeWee's dyno results are below (blue is stock):



 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks pmtg. I can't read the language below the graf. Could you possibly walk us through a cam change only, without a head pull or spring change?
 

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Thanks pmtg. I can't read the language below the graf. Could you possibly walk us through a cam change only, without a head pull or spring change?


It's been awhile since I did it. Follow TeeWee's post above, it shows how to pull the cam (even though he pulled the head as well; also, on the 2nd page of that thread he explains each line of the graph above).



Essentially,

1) loosen/remove cam chain tensioner

2) pull the cam cover

3) remove cam gear

4) remove cam bearing retainer

5) loosen tappets

6) withdrawal the cam

7) Installation is the reverse.



The cam gear is clocked to the cam with a dowel and there are tick marks on the gear that line up with the tick mark on the cam housing (page 4-5 in manual) for insuring you are timed correctly.



There is a free manual to download in the Technical Help section on this forum. The process is in the Main Manual (not the supplement) starting on page 4-17. The manual tells you to remove the rocker arm shafts but you do NOT have to do that.



It's not a hard job.
 
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