Ordered Slow Jet from Jets R Us. They must have sent in either the wrong jet or its a faulty one. I put this thing in and there is resistance. So I stop immediately and know but totally deny what is happening. I go put it together and still popping so I got to go up. Got to take out the jet and my worse fears are true. The jet had cross threaded the carb. I was like [email protected]@@!!!!!!!!!. I had to drill it out carefully. Stepping it up the drill sizes slowly. Finally I got it out. I look into the carb and a real fine thread of aluminum is there. I was like shit. I really can't do anything about it. I go put in the bigger jet and its still popping but less so I got to go up another step. I am pretty sure that there is gonna be the same problem. What a headache.
Carb Problems
-
Hey Everyone! Vote for the Site Favourite BOTM winner for the year of 2022 HERE!
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Joined
·
1,375 Posts
TW carb issues have been a head ache for me too! I read the following thred about a dozzen times, & it helped me get the light bulb to finally glow in my brain, although somewhat dimly. I am working with a California carb to boot! But it helpped me. If you have not read this link, see if any of it helps: http://tw200forum.com/forums/88964/ShowPost.aspx
What carb do you have? Maybe I can help. M.
What carb do you have? Maybe I can help. M.
Joined
·
3,923 Posts
It doesn't matter that it's a Cali carb.
I've said it before and it prolly bears repeating for newbies. There's NO FUNCTIONAL DIFFERENCE between a Cali carb and a 49-state carb. The ONLY difference between a Cali carb and 49-state carb is that we get RICHER jetting and the carb will have a 100% PASSIVE port for the tank vent. Same jets, thread pitch and internal parts as its 49-state counterparts and any bike will respond equally with a modded Cali carb as a 49-state carb.. Check your standard jet and I think you'll find that it's 1 step RICHER than a 49-stater to begin with.
Further, the canister is completely passive and has ZERO effect on the carb's function.
Carry on. Just thought I'd toss that in.
Joined
·
1,375 Posts
Rising sun, if what lizrdbrth said is true, & after i looked i must agree with him, then a used cali-carb upper body might just be the thing you need! I have one. Let me know if your interested. The only thing that crossed my mind, is that I read that the throttle cable bracket on bikes with front drum brakes is located on the left hand side of the bike/carb, & newer disk brake models have the bracket on the right? Please correct me on this matter. The body I have has the bracket on the left. What do you think, would he be better off giving my carb upper a try? Just let me know. And don't beat yourself up too much, we have all been in your shoes! If I had a nickle....m.
I have a cali carb
followed recommendations on the forum here and seemed fine
Main, washer under clip, new pilot, and adjust 2 1/2 turns
Assuming you could pick the right jet then a TINY drop of jb Weld and gently screw her home
it should be permanenet.
followed recommendations on the forum here and seemed fine
Main, washer under clip, new pilot, and adjust 2 1/2 turns
Assuming you could pick the right jet then a TINY drop of jb Weld and gently screw her home
it should be permanenet.
Joined
·
7,044 Posts
TWs don't seem to be too picky about low speed fuel circuit tune. Every bike I've tuned so far has done well with the stock pilot jet. North American market pilot jets for all years are a tad on the lean side, but with modified intake, exhaust, and/or engine, and conducive atmospheric conditions, it would be possible for proper tune requiring backing the pilot screw out far enough spring tension would no longer hold it in place. Even a stock engine generally requires 2 to 3 turns out for proper tune, and I think 3 turns is pushing it as far as spring tension goes. I think a bigger jet with the screw adjusted at 3/4 to 1 turn would provide the same tune as stock, be much more secure in the long run, and allow wider lattitude for engine mods.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
