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Discussion Starter #1
So after my accident last year and the bike sitting for a year, the bike will not idle. I am pretty sure I need to clean the carb. How hard is taking apart, cleaning and putting back together the TW200 carburetor for someone who has never worked on a motorcycle carburetor before?
 

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I would suggest draining gas put in a fresh gallon with like 3 oz of Seafoam. Turn over to get it to carb. Wait overnight and try and start. May or may not start to ungunk...i'm getting ready for PG and E power shut offs on hot windy days here in CA. Put my portable generator on my front porch...would not start. I did the above with positive results.
But taking carb off Dubby is not a difficult thing if needed. Lots of topic/discussion on this website
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would suggest draining gas put in a fresh gallon with like 3 oz of Seafoam. Turn over to get it to carb. Wait overnight and try and start. May or may not start to ungunk...i'm getting ready for PG and E power shut offs on hot windy days here in CA. Put my portable generator on my front porch...would not start. I did the above with positive results.
But taking carb off Dubby is not a difficult thing if needed. Lots of topic/discussion on this website
I had Seafoam sitting in it since last year.
 

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So after my accident last year and the bike sitting for a year, the bike will not idle. I am pretty sure I need to clean the carb. How hard is taking apart, cleaning and putting back together the TW200 carburetor for someone who has never worked on a motorcycle carburetor before?
Have someone remove and clean the carb for you.
 

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Hmmmm... I think Reddave might be the nearest to you. It wouldn't hurt to send him a PM. Looks like he's between Fairplay and Garo. What town do you live in?
I live in a town of 2600 at 8000 feet in the Rockies. The next nearest town is 35 min away and neither of us has a motorcycle place.
 

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Agree that the tank should absolutely also be drained and cleaned. If you just do the carb you'll still just be introducing more tainted fuel into a clean carb and I don't care how much Seafoam or other miracle additive you use (and I do use Seafoam myself).

Unbolt and flip the tank. Reattach and run some fuel through the fuel lines (disconnected from the carb of course) to flush whatever debris might be within them. This should take you all of 20-30 minutes.
Then take the carb off and apart (take a lot of digital pictures if you have not down this before). An ultrasonic cleaner with some Simple Green and water in it will cost you a lot less than having a shop and/or dealer to do this for you for a hours shop rate (they'll charge you 2-3 hours). Reverse & repeat.

Fresh fuel with or without Seafoam, doesn't matter if you actually just ride the little beast. Again, fuel sitting for a year with the bestest of the best additive... cards are against you. Can't prevent fuel depreciation for that long. If you have to do that in the future use ethanol-free or straight aviation fuel (if you can get it).

I'd add a little in-line fuel filter for good measure but that's a personal choice. And if you already have one change it out. Couple bucks.

If you have never done this before then yeah... it can be a little intimidating. But after you have done it you'll realize just how simple it really is to do. No prior/zero prior mechanical experience is really needed. Just common sense. Go for it.
 

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The carb is really fairly easy to remove and clean, there are numerous forum posts and Youtube videos describing the procedure.
However if Errtu is reluctant to attempt the carb carb removal & cleaning then suggesting additional work may not be as helpful as coming up with simple first steps that can be attempted.

If the bike runs but will not idle why not just turn up the idle speed? Then running the bike with fresh gas & seafoam or equivalent can sometimes accomplish the necessary cleaning without any disassembly.
The old gas can be readily drained via the drain line on bottom of carb without any disassembly, just carefully use the JIS screwdriver in the on-board tool kit ( NOT A #2 phillips!) to loosen screw a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I went to drain the carb and opened the screw quite a bit but the gas is only coming out in a tiny trickle. When I disconnect the fuel hose from the top of the carb I get a good stream coming from the tank.
 

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So I went to drain the carb and opened the screw quite a bit but the gas is only coming out in a tiny trickle. When I disconnect the fuel hose from the top of the carb I get a good stream coming from the tank.
Based upon this comment and the leakage reported in first post, there is very likely debris in the float valve.

You can loosen the hose clamps, rotate the carb almost 90 degrees, remove the bowl screws, remove the bowl and probably deal with it without removing the carb. Just be gentle with float, especially the tab.

Ditto on Stagewax's comments in post 9. At the very least, unscrew petcock and drain tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Based upon this comment and the leakage reported in first post, there is very likely debris in the float valve.

You can loosen the hose clamps, rotate the carb almost 90 degrees, remove the bowl screws, remove the bowl and probably deal with it without removing the carb. Just be gentle with float, especially the tab.

Ditto on Stagewax's comments in post 9. At the very least, unscrew petcock and drain tank.
Going to do some research about the bowl and float before I attempt to do this. I plan on removing all the old gas and adding new gas once I get the gas flowing again.
 

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Hey Errtu! Nice to know I've got a local forum member! I'm actually dropping my bike off tomorrow at B&B Sports Cycles in Evergreen. It's quite a drive, but as you know - everything out here is. They are really the only reputable place around, from my research. I'm having them replace my valves, rebuild the front shocks, and tune the bike as they see fit for a 9000ft elevation. Never had any work done by them before, so I'm hoping they work out well for me. As for you - Stagewex and Fred have it right, as usual! Get some fresh octane in there! Try pulling the pilot jet and having a look for gunk? When we are both up and running we should be going for a ride, brother!
 

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Do I remove the float to get at the valve? The pictures are unclear.
Yes
Use tweezers or long nose pliers to gently pull float pin to the side.

Overflow = float valve not shutting off
Restricted flow = debris in float valve, since good flow through petcock
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Yes
Use tweezers or long nose pliers to gently pull float pin to the side.

Overflow = float valve not shutting off
Restricted flow = debris in float valve, since good flow through petcock
Well I didn't see any debris in either the pilot jet or the float valve. Going to attach the fuel line tomorrow and see if I can get gas to flow out the bowl.

Any tips on removing the needle valve seat so I can see the screen? I removed the screw but the seat seems very solid and I didn't want to use pliers and mess up the brass.
 

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Thanks for popping in brother Dave. It will be encouraging for Errtu just to know there is a member nearby... Thanks!! :)
Hey Errtu! Nice to know I've got a local forum member! I'm actually dropping my bike off tomorrow at B&B Sports Cycles in Evergreen. It's quite a drive, but as you know - everything out here is. They are really the only reputable place around, from my research. I'm having them replace my valves, rebuild the front shocks, and tune the bike as they see fit for a 9000ft elevation. Never had any work done by them before, so I'm hoping they work out well for me. As for you - Stagewex and Fred have it right, as usual! Get some fresh octane in there! Try pulling the pilot jet and having a look for gunk? When we are both up and running we should be going for a ride, brother!
 
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