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Discussion Starter #1
I am removing my 1996 carb (old carb) and installing a 2006 carb (new carb). Some of the things I learned on the swap is the intake manifolds are different, the intake boot to the air box is different including clamps, so I had to come up with some newer parts. Thanks Jimbo! After installing the carb I turned on the gas and the float bowl gasket leaked, remove and replace, turn the gas on and gas was coming out of the air box, remove carb and replace the needle valve seat and the float needle valve ooooooook reinstall the new carb turned on the gas and.............no leak! Install cables, hoses, turn on the key and it started, ck for leaks all looks good. I putted around my street just to make sure all was ok. I plan on ridding this weekend to compare all around performance.



The new carb on the left, note the larger intake that goes to the air box boot.







The air boot for the new carb is on the bottom, much larger diamiter.







The intake side of the cards. New carb on the left, the groove is dif.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
This is the old card and you can see the opening through the carb is oval.







The new card is round looking through it.



 

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Good info, Ronniedog.



I worked with MXRider converting his old carb to a new one. His old carb had broken float posts, so the decision was easy.



















He couldn't compare performance since his bike with the old carb was not in running condition.



jb
 

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Nice RD, thank you for the info! I still have to get into my carb, as D's bike flat outruns mine, and they are twins . . . and NO, I'm not that "well fed".




I can't wait to hear what you think.



Bag
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice RD, thank you for the info! I still have to get into my carb, as D's bike flat outruns mine, and they are twins . . . and NO, I'm not that "well fed".




I can't wait to hear what you think.



Bag




Bag I have had the same thing happen with bikes newer than 2001 (JIMBOS Bike
) and I thought this might be the answer. Hell if all else fails build a TW250 I know that works. Did you shim your clutch?

Ronnydog
 

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I did a test with my two t-dubs! My 98 feels like it has way more low end torque than the 07 so i had my buddy who is about 190lbs ride my 98 and i rode the 07 150lbs from a 35-40mph roll in 5th no down shifting. He out ran me by probably three bikes to about 65mph. But the 07 runs about 5-7mph faster on top speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did a test with my two t-dubs! My 98 feels like it has way more low end torque than the 07 so i had my buddy who is about 190lbs ride my 98 and i rode the 07 150lbs from a 35-40mph roll in 5th no down shifting. He out ran me by probably three bikes to about 65mph. But the 07 runs about 5-7mph faster on top speed.




Smalls I like the new carb better, (I ran a 128 main and one shim) the bike runs smoother, more predictable, comes on a little slower and the top speed is 5-7 mph faster. It has a little more get up from mid to full. It has more power overall. The test is on my 226cc with 15/44 sprockets. I'm going to run some street and offroad with the Bighorn and 15/55 sprockets today.



Ronnydog
 

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I feel the same way. I like riding the 98 in the woods around here because of the better low end but thats about it. Im really thinking about putting a bighorn/ k760 on the 98 and maybe a 54-57 rear sprocket for toying around here. Did you run that 15/44 on the ss1000 and is it ok on the slab? Im thinking about running a 15/47 for a road only trip to the blue ridge parkway. Im guessing 1500+plus miles. The 14/47 pulls my 150lb butt around with ease and it feels like it would be fine on the road. I guess it would be worth $20 and a little testing to find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I feel the same way. I like riding the 98 in the woods around here because of the better low end but thats about it. Im really thinking about putting a bighorn/ k760 on the 98 and maybe a 54-57 rear sprocket for toying around here. Did you run that 15/44 on the ss1000 and is it ok on the slab? Im thinking about running a 15/47 for a road only trip to the blue ridge parkway. Im guessing 1500+plus miles. The 14/47 pulls my 150lb butt around with ease and it feels like it would be fine on the road. I guess it would be worth $20 and a little testing to find out.


With the 226cc motor I can spare a little bottom end power and use the newer carb with more top end. I have been running around with a stock tire and 15/44 set up and it works well for me on the freeway. I changed over to 15/55 and the bighorn tire and I still like the new carb even the low end is good enough. The iron butt I ran 15/55 to match Liz set up.



Ronnydog
 

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Ya drill the slide or lighten the spring. Have you tried drilled the slide on this carb, what size bit, any pics?



Thanks



Ronnydog


Sorry, no pics! I went with an 1/8". I don't think I had a 3/32" bit. Obviously you can go too big but your bigger displacement should have more forgiveness, it breathes more than the 196cc's & cam I had.
 

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The carb BORE is the important part



If/when/ever I would try to score a bigger carb



I don't know the specific number off hand think its 28mm but you can get 30mm for like $60 on the internet.



CV's are another EPA mandate cure not for performance, by rejetting you might get better throttle response by drilling so they open faster, but ultimate performance is the size of the whole
 

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im doing the same thing,swaping out carbs. i have a tw 1995.i have read a lot of treads and none have thoroughly answered my questions. and i want to replace it with this newer carb in the pix that was posted. i see them all over ebay,for like $30.but there listed for a 2001 to 2017 only. what exacetely do i have to do with the intake manifold,do i buy a new one from what year tw? to mount it to the head? and the air box ,do i just buy a newer booth for a 2001 on? as seen in the pix.
and what about the push pull throtel cable,will this fit perfecetely? i really dont want to put on a single slide carb,as i have seen on many treads. i dont want to start cutting and putting on a different cable,cutting ,etc. trying to find the easy way out.
thanks for the help. mark s.
 

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or is it just better to replace with this carb. Mikuni-tm33-8012-slide-carburetor-TM33-8012
i really hate that carb thats on it,hard starting,etc.....
 

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Can't speak for the Mikuni, but since this thread started in 2012, you can now buy a Chinese clone of the TK cv carb.

You will also need the intake manifold and the rubber boot from a 2001 and newer TW.

The throttle cable will need to be rerouted to the right side of the bike....not difficult to do.

This is a sample:

https://www.amazon.com/Carbpro-Carburetor-YAMAHA-2001-2017-TRAILWAY/dp/B07CKG11PK/ref=sr_1_11?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI27G08ff74gIVkLrACh3FuQ7WEAAYASAAEgKg2PD_BwE&hvadid=190478380032&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9010337&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5371564424212996628&hvtargid=kwd-301694910605&hydadcr=6617_9585113&keywords=yamaha+tw200+carburetor&qid=1561166908&s=gateway&sr=8-11

This is one of many vendors. I don't endorse any one in particular

The manifold and boot may be available on eBay....from China......not sure how the tariffs affect the prices.

jb
 
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