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Discussion Starter #1
Hi people, my first post here. I am a relatively new member not afraid to wrench on my machine, in this instance is a 1990 TW. I have the carb off and apart, but can't figure out how to get the main needle out... not the float needle, but the one that is long and goes down through the body of the carb. Do I have to take the throttle linkage off to get the needle out? Your help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks so much, Badgerflorida. I actually have the carburetor off of the bike and I had taken that e-clip off, but I was afraid to pry the prong out of the plastic part as I wasn't sure that was the correct procedure and I didn't want to break anything. I will now be able to finish the job with confidence...
 

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You could remove both e-clips, but I was able to do it with just one with no damage or forceful tweaking. There are also two screws down the tube that could make everything easier once removed. Not sure how much surgery you want to do. Just take your time and don’t force anything. Mine was also off the bike when I completely gutted and cleaned it. Mine did not have a happy ending because the choke was stuck closed and even direct heat didn’t unstick it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I did manage to get the needle out. The next challenge will be putting the pins back in the plastic thingy when I reassemble it. I'm not sure how I'm going to do it, as there is a spring inside the plastic piece that will have to be depressed when the last pin is pushed into place. Any secrets to this, or am I overlooking something simple and obvious? I have been known to do that from time to time...
 

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The newer carbs (2001+) are much easier to work on in my opinion. I used lightweight thread looped through both holes to compress the spring. When I completed the reassembly I cut the thread and pulled it out. Just make sure you get all the thread or whatever you use out. There’s probably an easier way, but it worked for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks. That's a brilliant idea. I've been trying it with 4lb test fishing line, but it's not going too well. I'll try another type of line or thread and see how that goes.
 

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A small dab of oil might help the pins slide in easier. If you have more trouble, let me know. I have another idea, but it involves additional disassembly. Are you shimming the needle? I did that on a newer style carb and it helped cold starts and idle. But I rejetted at the same time, so I’m not sure which did more.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I discovered that I could get a dental pick in the hole and compress the spring as I slid the pin in from the other side. Only problem now is I think I bent something trying to pry the pin out of the plastic connector at disassembly, because I can't get the throttle to slide freely after the second pin is in place. I'll play with it some more, but I think I bent the small metal piece that screws down on to the throttle plunger with two small screws. For some reason the pin on my assembly was very hard to pry out of the plastic connector. Not at all as easy as the one in the video. I put new jets in the carburetor, but not re-jetted with different sizes. I used the ones supplied in a standard rebuild kit; still considering whether or not to shim it with a washer or two. Thanks for the help, with any luck I'll have it going soon. Waiting on a new intake connector...
 

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My old carb is a paperweight because of the stuck choke and I just replaced the whole carb with a Chinese knockoff. If you think one of your parts is bent or broke and you can’t get it to work, maybe I can pull off what you need and send it to you. To my knowledge, no one sells individual replacement parts, just the whole carb. Yours will probably be fine.

There are lots of mixed results on aftermarket rebuild kits. Many on here swear by only stock (Yamaha) replacement Jets and other parts. You could read threads on here for hours about that subject. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Appreciate that greatly. I may take you up on your offer if I can't get it to function after some light prying and heavy swearing. I've had good luck rebuilding other carburetors in the past, but this one seems to be a challenge at every turn for some reason. I don't give up easy, though. It's possible that I may, at some point, resort to one of the China Carb's, but mine is an older bike (1990) and I'd have to swap sides on cables and get a new intake boot. Would really like to keep the Japan carb functioning, but we'll see...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, I got it. For those who may wish to do this later, here's what I found that worked for me. I'm not going to try, in the future, to pry the top pin out of the plastic sleeve. That bent the aluminum piece that screws down to the plunger. I was able to bend it back and I think it will be fine. In the future, I will remove the top screw that attaches the swivel arm to the rotating shaft. Then remove the two small screws at the base of the plunger. The whole mechanism will come out then with little difficulty after you remove the top e-clip. Reassemble in the reverse fashion. The hardest part was getting the e-clip back in, but that wasn't really too bad. Doing it this way will eliminate the risk of breaking something by trying to pry the plastic piece off of the top pin as demonstrated in the related video. I see that it worked fine for the gentleman who made the video, but mine was much tighter and did not cooperate as well as his did. Thank you so much for the assistance in helping me get this done. I'm looking forward to riding it after my manifold connector comes in. Oh, by the way, putting the top pin in was pretty easy; I used a dental pick to push down on the spring while I pushed the pin in from the opposite side...
 
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